2G Slave cylinder bleed screw

[Junzu]

Borrowed this photo from an old thread, wanted to know which screw is the bleed screw. Looking to bleed my clutch systems tomorrow. Also wondering where the 10mm adjustment is where I put the hose (to prevent air from getting in) connecting to a jar of brake fluid. Thanks

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[BLACK'98DSM]

This is the bleeder screw. Should be a 10mm wrench size. It's also supposed to have a rubber cap on it.

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[XC92]

When you bleed it it helps a lot to have a helper pumping the clutch pedal while you tighten and loosen the bleeder screw (pump-open-close-release-repeat until no more air bubbles, then again pumping the piston yourself).

There are also 1 person bleeding tools so you don't need a helped but I've never used them. Even better IMO is replacing the stock bleeder screw with a special "speed bleeder" screw, that has a one-way valve that prevents air from being sucked back in. This way you don't need a helper, unless you want to see the bubbles until they're gone. I prefer a helper, just to make sure.

Also, make sure that the tube attached to the screw is tight and feeds into a stable container that won't fall over, wear impermeable gloves like nitrile, and goggles, as you absolutely don't want the fluid in your eyes.

Good luck!

 

[Junzu]

This is the bleeder screw. Should be a 10mm wrench size. It's also supposed to have a rubber cap on it.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Thank you!

When you bleed it it helps a lot to have a helper pumping the clutch pedal while you tighten and loosen the bleeder screw (pump-open-close-release-repeat until no more air bubbles, then again pumping the piston yourself).

Thank you!! Also, where do I put the hose to be sure?

 

[XC92]

One end on the screw, the other into a secure container. Has to be clear so you can see the bubbles. I prefer silicone tubing, around 1/4" IIRC. Makes for a more secure fit than poly and is more flexible so less likely to come off the screw or out of the container or knock it over. But poly works.

 

[Junzu]

One end on the screw, the other into a secure container. Has to be clear so you can see the bubbles. I prefer silicone tubing, around 1/4" IIRC. Makes for a more secure fit than poly and is more flexible so less likely to come off the screw or out of the container or knock it over. But poly works.

Can't thank you enough. Alright last question I promise! If the tubing is attached to the bleeder screw, how do I loosen and tighten it during the process?

Also, can I do this without jacking the car up? I do not have a floor jack OR jack stands currently...

 

[XC92]

What I do is put a 10mm wrench on the hex part of the screw. Use the closed end if it's a combo wrench. Then apply the tubing, making sure it's tight. Then you just use the wrench to open and close the screw.

When you're done both come off. But you can also use the open end of the wrench. Whatever works for you.

And you can do this with the car on the floor, but clearance is really tight. Helps to be skinny and limber!

Also make sure to keep the MC topped off with fluid.

 

[Junzu]

What I do is put a 10mm wrench on the hex part of the screw. Use the closed end if it's a combo wrench. Then apply the tubing, making sure it's tight. Then you just use the wrench to open and close the screw.

When you're done both come off. But you can also use the open end of the wrench. Whatever works for you.

And you can do this with the car on the floor, but clearance is really tight. Helps to be skinny and limber!

Also make sure to keep the MC topped off with fluid.

Thank god I'm skinny and limber! Excellent. Would buy you lunch if I could. I'll get to it

 

[Junzu]

97 GST, Tried to bleed my clutch, was using 10mm flare wrench but screw was just rounding off! I said f*** it and tried to replace the screw entirely with a new one, tried using a 10mm socket this time to pull it out. I don't know if it's stripped, but it just wont come out and gets LOOSE and then TIGHT again when you turn it either way. Will only tighten a little and will not come out completely. What do I do?

 

[AWD-Tony]

Remove the slave off the car. Remove the boot and pull out the internals. It’s just the rod, piston and spring. Put it on a vice and use a torch to heat where the bleeder screws into the body. Then try removing the bleeder. That’s if you have all these. If not, time to buy a new slave.

Don’t crush the slave in the vice and clean the brake fluid off since it will catch on fire.

 

[BLACK'98DSM]

If it turns both directions without moving farther in or out then yes, it's stripped. Your only option besides replacing the slave is to re-tap the hole and use a larger bleeder screw, assuming you can find one.

 

[Widgmaster]

This sounds like a no brainer... A slave cylinder cost under a hundred bucks.. How much do you value your car and anyone riding with you if the brakes fail...

 

[BLACK'98DSM]

Well the OEM slave cylinders are much better quality than any off the shelf ones. So if it can be saved I'd do it. Otherwise you're right. It's fairly inexpensive.

 

[pauleyman]

This sounds like a no brainer... A slave cylinder cost under a hundred bucks.. How much do you value your car and anyone riding with you if the brakes fail.

Boy you need coffee. It's clutch.

Get a new slave. They are cheap.

 

[AWD-Tony]

It’s a slave cylinder…clutch and you won’t be able to clean the bottom threads with a tap since a tap is tapered. Better option of cleaning the thread is using a thread chaser.