Sinister 9 second street build - 97 Talon AWD

[black97spyder]

Great work when I read your thread I can almost hear your passion for the project! It definately gives me some encouragement to finish my project too! Keep up the good work.

Thanks man! I love working on my dsm, and cars in general. It helps me relieve stress and kinda keep to myself when I dont want to be around others.

Dont give up on your project! Keep at it and you ll get there eventually!



Got some video from last night at the track. Overall wasnt my night, kept having one problem after another. First off on the drive up to the drag strip I kept having MAJOR boost spike and it wouldnt happen until around 6400rpm and kept going up the higher I revved it. I would start off at 14-15psi and by 7500 rpm be up to 17-18psi and would hit fuel cut.

Then as if the boost creep that came out of no where wasnt bad enough. I got to the track and started tightening all my I/c couplers to make sure I didnt develop a leak while driving to the track.... and I broke a damn T bolt clam. Luckily I packed an extra one just in case... and broke that f***ing one too!! At this point im starting to get prettt pissed... so again luckily, I brought a couple big hose clamps along with the extra t bolt clamp and put 2 on the I/c coupler where the t bolt clamp broke.

Finally I was able to make my first pass about 1.5 hours after they started letting cars run. First pass led to a 15.22 @ 91 mph. I didn't like how it was boosting (came off the line at 12 and pretty much stayed there the whole pass so I reached down by my obd2 port and turned the boost up 3 turns, up to 15-16psi). When I got back to the pit area I decided I wanted to mess with my intake cam timing and advance it 2 degrees.... BAD IDEA, I lost a nut off the cam gear while trying to move timing, so I said F it and tightened everything back up and left the intake cam at 0/straight up.

FINALLY after all the bs that was happening to me I went to make another run. This one was against an LT1 4th gen camaro and led to a great pass, ran a 14.36. Here is the video of that run

[ame]http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=713Wr7Yw-Q0&feature=plcp[/ame]

After that run I felt pretty good about the car so went right back in line for another pass... this time against a 99 LS1 camaro. Here is the video from that run

[ame]http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=iFD01wlq6Ig&feature=plcp[/ame]

That pass I nailed my new personal best 60' time at 2.08

 

[black97spyder]

I finally got around to showing what all I did to the car since I cannot upload pictures on the site still.


[ame=http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=ze6ewhnTrqA]"Sinister" 97 talon tsi awd walk-around - YouTube[/ame]

not as good as pictures but you still get to see the differences. Kinda mispoke in the video as well, I dont have a stock trans cooler . I meant to say I relocated my ipt trans cooler from the stock location to the passenger side where the old smic used to be.

ignore the smoke in the exhaust, my valve seals are dried out, some are cracked and most are leaking horrible. I have new supertech valve stem seals from STM and bought a spring compressor for me to change the seals with the head still on the car... that will be the VERY next thing that gets my attention because im tired of my car smoking like a freight train at stop lights and spending $10 a week on a qt of royal purple

 

[combs-dsm]

Be sure to feel us in on your IFO runs. Car is looking bad bro. Your doing a great job showing that these DSMs are sick a/f

 

[black97spyder]

Well guys its been a long time since I've given you any updates.

I have done a ton to the car since last time I was on here. I spent 13 hrs one weekend tearing the head apart on the car so I could change valve seals one at a time, what a PIA but it doesnt smoke hardly at all now. Only time is smokes is on a cold startup when its idling.

after I fixed that problem, I installed dsmlink, some FIC 1120's and a trans cooler fan to keep my trans temps under check when im at the drag strip. I then started tuning the car myself with no prior experience with dsmlink.

proceeded to run a 13.03 at the track the next weekend my third pass out at 21psi by tuning the car myself to 10.5 AFR's. And here is the video from that run


[ame]http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=tVPoHv4NOZQ[/ame]

After getting the car into the 13.0 flats I wanted to see just how much more I could get out of it tuning it myself, well a week later I went back to the track and ran a 12.94@106 mph. And here is the video from that pass


[ame]http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=e3DhbC2HaR8&feature=c4-feed-u[/ame]

finally after tuning the car to the max with my ability, I decides to hit up my1gDSM for a remote tune and he did a great job!! I have now gotten down to personal best of a 1.77 - 60' time on street tires leading to a 8.24 in the 8th mile and then a 12.81@ 107mph in the 1/4 mile on piss 91 octane. God the car runs great and pulls so hard!! Now i will be having my1gDSM tune my car for e85 so the fun can really begin.... hoping for 11's with my 20g on e85!! Unfortunately I dont have any videos of my new personal best pass.

After my new personal best pass I decided it id time to go for my end goal of 9's in the 1/4 mile so I bought a freshly rebuilt 6 blade holset hx40 & a punishment racing t3 hot parts kit... now just need a couple things (BEP T3 housing for my hx40, a tial 44mm vband wastegate, and some rota's with +45mm offset attached to some 26x8 hoosier QTP's) and ill be ready to bolt my new setup on and shoot for at least low 10's through the auto

 

[black97spyder]

Well have bad news. About a month ago my auto tranny started leaking fluid BAD from the output shaft seal on the tranny side. Worst part is that everything is working GREAT and running the best it ever has (thanks again My1GDSM!!) And now the motor, trans and tcase are all being pulled and replaced so I can reliably run a stupid amount of boost to the car without worry about breaking something. Switching to Speed Density, buying a fourced four shift box plus, doing an alternator relocation and putting in an electric 3" cut-out.... just can't decide weather to put the cutout right after my 3" vband flange and run fender exit exhaust and muffler out the back. OR put the cutout where I had to cut my D.P to remove the tcase (about 1 foot after the flex section) and have a muffler out the back?

im sending the tcase off to Devo 2ning for a full 300m upgrade and getting a 950hp DSS driveshaft from them as well.

The auto is going to be sent to Mark at metro trans for him to work his magic on.... cant decide weather to do a 4 spider upgrade or have him weld the center diff (going to pretty much be a daily driven car but want it to hold the most power it can)

My spair fully built 7 bolt with 0 miles is going to be dropped in. It consists of stock 7 block (surfaced, bored .020, honed, media blasted, hot tanked and painted hi-temp black), stock bolt crank (polished), Manley H beam rods (175hp per rod), .020 Manley forged 9.5:1 pistons, STM bse kit, melling oil pump, evo 3 air cooled OFH, head has been surfaced to a mirror finish w/ 3 angle valve job, BC single springs & titanium retainers, new valve seals, old oem valve guides w/ 115k miles , mitsubishi MLS head gasket, ARP L19's torqued to 110 ft lbs, all topped with BC 284 spec camshafts and AEM tru-time cam gears with a gates racing timing belt.

And last but not least im buying from STM: 2g ABS delete kit, -6an filter to rail kit, -8an fuel return kit w/ AFPR, JmFab small battery tray, kiggly HLA, Tial MVR 44mm vband W.G., and fluidampr balancer to finish off all the little touches to the car

Now its time to pull the motor and trans in the next week or so, drop in all the new goodies and boost away on a COMPLETE new setup ...

any input on the trans options and cutout placement would be greatly appreciated!!

 

[black97spyder]

Finally got my money to start fixing up the talon yesterday, now just have to manage my budget well so that it all lasts and goes to the appropriate parts for the car .... soo excited to bolt this whole new setup back in so that I can start dominating the streets and my local track hehe

 

[black97spyder]

Well I have a couple updates and hopefully can load a couple pictures because I have like 50 pictures that I havent been able to upload yet... seems it will let me upload one of my motor ready to drop in, so I will show that off until I can figure out how to get the rest of my pics to upload.

The last thing I have to do before the car is up and running again is get the trans out of the engine bay and sent off to metro trans for a full performance rebuild with welded center dif

Got all of my new parts in and my engine ready to start one I drop her in! I got my VC powder coated illusion purple, put BC's new 284 cams in, 3g lifters, kiggly HLA, and some AEM tru-time cam gears. As well drilled/tapped an extra 1/8" bspt port on my evo 3 OFH, fluidampr, AEM water/meth kit, S.D. setup, fourced four shift box, and turbo setup all ready to go on the car :thumb... got my egr port drilled, tapped and blocked off for my heat barrier I.M. gasket.

I also have gotten another sponsor, Automod Central, that helped me out with pricing on my AEM cam gears and AEM water/meth setup.

Hopefully I can get a few more pictures uploaded soon to show all the progress and setbacks I have went through over the last couple months

 

[Pipnorcali]

Nice build...you can host pics at photbucket.com easy peasy sometimes the upload here is funky

 

[black97spyder]

Thanks man! Its taken a lot of time and money but should be getting back together soon if all goes good!

I tried uploading some pictures through photobucket but couldnt figure out how to get them to upload so I will have to figure that out before I can catch up on the photo's I havent gotten to upload yet

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

I really love your build blog son! Its very cool and on the money, keep it up, its great reading. For those who would like to see the 12.81 pass before he really gets fast with his car try this, since I was videoing the passes for him. Dad

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K9yGolC63b0&feature=youtube_gdata_player

Hope this works so all can see. Later!

Ok my computer didn't like that link so lets try this one:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nEBC-M7fZCg&feature=youtube_gdata_player

 

[leathaleagle21]

great build liking the sinister results too. I have a 9 inch it seems promising so far. I didn't loose any mph in the 8th and have stalled up to 4000 on a gtx30. It will be interesting to see what that 8.5 inch can do with a bigger turbo.

 

[black97spyder]

Thanks bro!! The 8" weighted core 2 sinister converter is awesome!! I have stalled over 5k on it before, dont think I can get more than 5500ish out of it though.

My new goal for the car is be the fastest 2g hx40 dsm while still achieving my goal of being a 9 second street car . And I know I can get both those goals with the help of my metro trans auto, sinister stall, fresh higher compression motor (9.5:1) and water/meth . So I am pretty stoked as its just a matter of time before I reach my goals

 

[leathaleagle21]

That is really up there. I originally wanted an 8" core 2 but when i was in the process of ordering it mike talked me out of it for the 9" core 1a weighted. I haven't tried to stall it over that yet. It seems like it will go higher, I will have a vac pump for the next attempts. Revving and catching vac at the line is a pita. The brakes on the mirage don't hold it back very well either. Good luck on smashing some records.

 

[black97spyder]

I garantee that you can stall more than 4k on that 9" but not sure how high they can go. I do know that the 8" is the highest stall mike offers but the 8" core's have a turbo size limit. Like mine (8" weighted core 2) cant go bigger than a pte 6266 @ 35psi because it will make the converter slip too much... and I don't revv and do the neutral blip when pulling up to the line, instead I do a blip while rolling up to the line which gives me better brakes. The neutral blip does not seem to do much for my car.

Lol I actually have to pull on the back of my steering wheel while pushing on my breaks and pulling on my eBrake just to hold the car back from pulling through the brakes and rolling through the beams at the track... but with my STM ABS delete kit, new brake master cylinder, new calipers and Hawks pads for the front and back, I should be able to hold my car back real good at the line now

And thanks for the kind words bro!!

 

[richard33]

Good luck with the build! 9's is definitely a challenge.

 

[black97spyder]

Thanks bro! It should he a challenge but im very confident I can get there with my new setup.

On another note I just ordered my frontline fabrication 2g auto tcase brace today, so should have that by next week and fitted up to my tcase

 

[black97spyder]

Sorry for the long update but i have alot to tell about, as I found out how I can upload pictures on my new phone to the site to show my progress .... I managed to delete my ABS brake lines, ABS ecu and the big bulky ass ABS module under the p/s reservoir thanks to STM's ABS delete kit. I also bought a ZEX 50-200hp direct port nitrous setup off another member on here. Got my F.F. auto tcase brace mounted up after removing the dust shield off the rear of the tcase tail housing. Also got my FIC 2150's, resistor pack delete plug and plug n' play harnesses (BIG THANKS TO FUEL INJECTOR CLINIC FOR MY LATEST SPONSORSHIP (well kind of ) MY ACHIEVEMENTS WOULDN'T BE POSSIBLE WITHOUT YOUR HELP!), 3" electronic cutout, fluidampr harmonic balancer, modified -8an awd sending unit with wally 450 e85 pump already mounted on it for a steal (picked it up for $210 to my door ). And finally just yesterday I pulled my 7" touchscreen out of my car and removed the radio bezel to install my various switches for my goodies. In order from left to right they go: cutout switch, orange lighted switch for rear light for talon emblem (plan on lighting up the rear talon emblem with LED'S and putting it on this toggle so I can remain unidentifiable when I want), green water/meth low level Indicator light, green lighted water/meth power switch, shift box on/off toggle and lastly nitrous arming switch with red indicator light that will light up when spraying the N20.

Big thanks to 1990TSIAWDTALON (my dad) for help on the wiring for the toggles. I am definitely not an electrical guru like he is, but also helps he has an electronic engineering degree .

Also talked to mark at metro trans friday and my trans should be mailed back in the next couple days and hopefully here before my 21st birthday come April 5th. The car is starting to come together REALLY fast after having basically no progress on it for about 3 months. Cant wait to get this thing together and crank the boost up on my new engine/turbo/trans setup!!

One of the few things I have left to do now is compare the 2gb cam sensor positioning @ TDC on my running motor that came out of the car with my new motor going in @ TDC to make sure my cam sensor isnt 180* off come time for first start up.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

Thamks son. Glad I could help. It is coming together very fast, just wait til that trans is at the door...you will be a super busy man. Keep up the good work!!!

 

[camfast]

Great job! Can't wait to see this car hit the track

 

[black97spyder]

Great job! Can't wait to see this car hit the track

Thanks man!! That means alot!!

Its came along way over the last year but I hope to soon be the new fastest 2g with hx40 record holder . Im predicting mid to low 9's at around 140-150mph out of the car without the direct port 200 shot of nitrous. Im hoping for close to 700awhp on e85 with water/meth and then on the spray im hoping for around 900-1000awhp (if the rods will stay together , if not the backup motor will go in after the rods give in my built Manley 9.5:1 7 bolt )

 

[DSM Chase]

You really need an aftermarket booster pump for the brakes... As you build boost you lose vacuum and thats what holds the brakes... The Car is gonna pull forward once you get a bigger turbo on and begin to spool it.

 

[black97spyder]

It was already doing that with the 20g at 25psi but I now will have hawks pads and new calipers so that should help alot from before. If I still experience problems with holding the car back at the line after that then I will break down and buy a vaccum pump.

What vaccum pump do you have and how do you have it hooked up?

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

Might check into this unit -

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-5500/overview/

Might glance at this article too.

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...-Increase-Engine-Vacuum-With-Aftermarket-Cams

Just something to check out if you can't hold it back with the HX40.

 

[black97spyder]

Got a few updates for the car. Should be getting my trans back from metro in the next couple days then I can start the install process with that and then get all my new electronic's wired up. I still have to wire up my AEM water/meth controller, shift box plus, gear display, NOS switch, push button & solenoids, trans temp gauge wiring and Alt wires for my Alt relocation.

I have gotten a few parts in over the last couple weeks as well. Got my fuel lab -8an tank to rail kit for my modified sending, got my Tial Q BOV, fresh chrome powder coated hood latch support and also got my VRSF FMIC in and mounted on the car (so I put the old P.R. fmic onto my spyder gst and took a picture , so I can finally get that one up and running also).


I also took my motor apart before I install it and re-timed it again. As it was a little tight for my liking. Even though all the marks were perfect and I could slide the grenade pin in and out still after a couple months and a few rotations, I loosened up the tension a little bit to where the hydraulic tensioner grenade pin hole was about half visible and half blocked by the upper part of the tensioner body.... only reason I did this was because I recently did a timing job on my dad's '90 AWD, i had ALL new components and I got EVERYTHING perfect, triple checked it all and could still slide the grenade pin in and out of the tensioner after sitting 15 minutes and turning the motor over like 20 times...... well upon start up of his car the timing belt started smoking and was getting extremely hot, took everything apart and it was all still perfectly timed. So I loosened the timing belt a little bit 3 different times until it got loose enough that it didn't smoke anymore when running.

I would hate for this to happened on my brand new motor on first startup and have to shut it off during the critical first 20 minutes of break in time. So hopefully i took enough precaution before it goes into the car.

 

[bucken13]

awesome build thread. Car has come along way . Kinda of regret not going auto awd now