Shell Rotella T6 Synthetic oil anybody using this?

[talontsiboy24]

I heard too much good about shell rotella t6 synthetic so im gonna give it a try i went to walmart and got about 5quarts of it for $27 tax included! Im switching my oil from mobil 1 syn 10w-30 to Shell Rotella T6 Synthetic 5w-40 for winter time heard this oil is awesome and i read alot about how tough it is especially for turbos and heat! My car has moderate mods and sees max 24psi of boost and high rpms here and there. I do plan on switching when summer comes by to 10w-40 or 15w-50.

Here is the full information about this oil= http://www-static.shell.com/static/...ts_services/lubricants/rotella/rotella_t6.pdf

the flashpoints in the oils celcius converted to fahrenheit=

Shell Rotella t6 syn= 435.2f

Amsoil Dominator
5w-20 = 437f
10w-30= 453f
20w-50= 453f

Amsoil 20w-50= 451f

BradPenn=
ow-30= 385f
10w-30 10w-40 10w-50= 400f
20w-50= 420f

Royal Purple flashpoint 400f Royal Purple Racing Oil flashpoint 420f

Castrol Syntec ow20 threw 10w-40= 392f

Mobil 1 syn
15-50= 449.6f
10w-40=464f
10w-30= 446f
5w-30= 437f
5w-20= 442.4f
0w-40= 446f


Valvoline Fully Synthetic=
ow-20= 428f
5w-20= 429.8f
5w-30 and 10w-30= 433.4f

Valvoline Not Street Legal Synthetic=
5w-30= 460.4f
10w-30= 478.4f
20w-50= 500f

Valvoline vr-1 racing motor oil
10w-30= 429.8f
20w-50= 478.4f

So i see mobil 1 is better in flashpoint then the shell im using but i only plan on using it for winter time and the shell does contain more zinc then the mobil also has a better flashpoint then most oils i stated here and i would still choose bradpenn over mobil 1 even though mobil has a higher flashpoint because it has more zinc in it and forcedperformance even said its really good to use. Amsoil 100% synthetic and racing oils are expensive and 20w-50 oils are too thick for winter time. My car is not heavily modified or built motor so no reason to run racing oil either.

 

[MY1GDSM]

I was actually hoping you'd have better info than that.

Like what? I'm sure I could do better if need be... .

But, What better source of info then the people the designed and built it? and why question it to Begin with? they have more into R&D then anyone else could probaly afford

 

[donniekak]

Like what? I'm sure I could do better if need be... .

But, What better source of info then the people the designed and built it? and why question it to Begin with? they have more into R&D then anyone else could probaly afford

For a lot of people the only part of their engine that mitsu designed is the block, and head castings. A built engine usually has 2-3x the stock ptw clearance, larger bearing clearances, higher lift cams, and high tension valvesprings, all of which alter the oiling needs.

 

[MY1GDSM]

For a lot of people the only part of their engine that mitsu designed is the block, and head castings. A built engine usually has 2-3x the stock ptw clearance, larger bearing clearances, higher lift cams, and high tension valvesprings, all of which alter the oiling needs.

I understand that, And I would hope Those people understand their own oiling needs... .Especially the ones the built it them selves... also with larger bearing clearances nobody is going to want Thinner oil right?

 

[knochgoon24]

Like what? I'm sure I could do better if need be... .

But, What better source of info then the people the designed and built it? and why question it to Begin with? they have more into R&D then anyone else could probaly afford

I have no faith in Mitsu and their opinion on oiling needs. Most members have engines on here that are so modified that they should be considered "race engines." Cars on here have double or triple (or more) horsepower than stock, modified oiling methods, and oil that is 20 years newer. We're well beyond the manuals "severe service criteria."

Throw in sub-par stock crank bearings, balance shafts that like to seize up, lifters that tick, and piston oil sprayers that like to clog open. Mitsu did a really good job designing the oiling on our cars.

The only real way to know if an oil works (or doesn't) is to have an oil analysis done. If metals start showing up that shouldn't be, then your oil may be one of the problems. At this stage, I have seen no signs that running 5w-* oil in my car is causing premature wear. I'm speaking from that experience.

I don't mean to attack you. You first response was vague so I nitpicked. I tend to do that.

See, I have had problems running 5w-30 and 10w-30 oils in my car though. I had premature turbo bearing failure repeatedly until I switched to this 5w-40. No problems so far.

 

[knochgoon24]

The weight rating only tells you the viscosity. The actual shear characteristics are also important. That's what such an importance is placed on zinc and moly content. Under heavier loads, those are you best lines of defense against wear. It's all about finding an oil that meets your needs.

 

[MY1GDSM]

It's all understandable an This ^ I've said before myseld as well...

Really The problem is that you get people that don't understand these things and live in somewhere like so-cal and think hey if that guy runs it , I should and that was more of the point I was trying to make.... . is that it's not the recommend weight in above 60* weather I have no plans to run it (Btw who the hell sells 4qt jugs not 5 )but Glad that it has helped you out... when you get your next tests done you should post it in the Main oil thread it would kinda continue where it was left off IIRC or maybe that was another oil thread... . Curious to see some of the numbers my-self mainly the ZDDP #'s...

 

[Bmxr152]

Me and a buddy are running it in AZ and I've had no problems.

Im going to be switching to Rotella T6 once i move out to AZ for wonderful UTI. I need something a little thicker for the warmer temps.

 

[talontsiboy24]

Sorry I was on my phone before hence the double post
I'm usually good about provide info to back up my statements.
Here strait from mitsu...

Yup that chart right there shows 5w is good for 60f after 60f time to bump it up to 10w and if its gets over 100f or u like beating the hell outta your car 15w is good enough i dont see a reason to run a 20w unless your motor is built and the builder recommended it.

Although im not liking the fact that switching to a 5w from 10w is showing more oil leaking then before but yea i know gotta fix that leak but i had no choice cause out here in chicago winter it gets into the negatives so 5w is best for now. Most dsmers usually use 15w or 20w to hide there leaks cause its so thick it cant leak out those lil places...dammit cant wait for spring to go back i hate this light weight oil but i really should fix my leaks

 

[MY1GDSM]

Although im not liking the fact that switching to a 5w from 10w is showing more oil leaking then before

That has nothing to do with the Oil... Just Fix your leaks

 

[talontsiboy24]

Also i dont get how shell can put extreme temperature on there rotella t6 syn 5w-40 bottle when the flash point of it is only 435.3f while mobil 1 syn 10w-40 is 464f which i heard the higher the flashpoint the better?

 

[okcpopeman]

Here is a good read since most if not all of you are turbo.

http://store.forcedperformance.net/...Performance Recommendations for Motor Oil.pdf

This is some research that FP did to find what oils work best(?) with their turbo's.

 

[MY1GDSM]

REALLY?

 

[gorilla5321]

wish they tested the rotella in there i use the 15w40 year round and have had less turbo issues just want to see the real facts or if it just luck so far

 

[okcpopeman]

Im sure you could just compare the zinc and phosphorus content and determine if it would be "ok" by their standards. Im not sure on how much of these rotella has. If you find out or bother to look it up please post your findings.

 

[talontsiboy24]

Why? Is this just hearsay or do you have some supporting info?


I'm going to run this year round in my car.

yea but in summer i just wouldnt run a 5w with those temps outside we get out here range from 80-100's it will be like water and then on top of that all that heat the motor is gonna make. rotella t6 flashpoint is 435.2f now mobil 1 10w-40 has a better flashpoint 464f so i think mobil 1 would withstand the heat better then the shell would especially for a car with moderate mods.

I'm not trying to sway you from making any choice on what oils to use...Or get OT



But Just FYI
I'm not sure what type/weight/etc. of Mobile 1 your comparing to in all these threads but,
Not all viscosities of Mobil 1 oils have the same levels of zinc and phosphorus, and there are even greater differences among the three Mobil 1 motorcycle oils... Which are pretty good stuff. If you look at the specs on them, Mobil 1 Racing 4T 10W-40 come to mind specifically.

im comparing it to mobil 1 for cars not motorcycle oils.

 

[knochgoon24]

yea but in summer i just wouldnt run a 5w with those temps outside we get out here range from 80-100's it will be like water and then on top of that all that heat the motor is gonna make. rotella t6 flashpoint is 435.2f now mobil 1 10w-40 has a better flashpoint 464f so i think mobil 1 would withstand the heat better then the shell would especially for a car with moderate mods.

You don't pick the cold weight of the oil based on the heat the engine will make. It's going to be thicker than a 30 weight oil when it finally gets up to temp.

You won't ever see me put Mobil 1 in any car I own ever again. That oil has gone down hill.

You're dead set on this flashpoint thing.

I present to you, my latest UOA.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/bolt-tech/398638-shell-rotella-t6-5w-40-used-oil-analysis-uoa.html

I filled it back up with T6 5w-40 again. I have autocrosses scheduled on 4/17 and 4/23. Drag racing planned for 4/22. I'll probably send another UOA to them in 3,000 miles to make sure the metal levels drop like I fully expect them to.

 

[Calan]

You won't ever see me put Mobil 1 in any car I own ever again. That oil has gone down hill.

 

[talontsiboy24]

You don't pick the cold weight of the oil based on the heat the engine will make. It's going to be thicker than a 30 weight oil when it finally gets up to temp.

You won't ever see me put Mobil 1 in any car I own ever again. That oil has gone down hill.

You're dead set on this flashpoint thing.

I present to you, my latest UOA.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/bolt-tech/398638-shell-rotella-t6-5w-40-used-oil-analysis-uoa.html

I filled it back up with T6 5w-40 again. I have autocrosses scheduled on 4/17 and 4/23. Drag racing planned for 4/22. I'll probably send another UOA to them in 3,000 miles to make sure the metal levels drop like I fully expect them to.

Dont get me wrong i like the shell rotella t6 then the mobil 1 10w-30 but with my car having moderate mods seein 22-24lbs of boost and in summer time i think id like to have a 10w then 5w mostly all dsmers dont run a 5w in summer time. Also since mobil 1 10w-40 has a higher flashpoint then the t6 wouldnt the shell breakdown before the mobil would?

 

[DSM1G90]

Funny how in many previous posts that Mobil1 is the oil to use. Now, it's the most dreaded one to use...

?..HUH, did I miss something here..?

Maybe we all oughta go back to dino oils and do our good ol' 3k/3month oil changes and all it good. That stuff's been around a lot longer than any synthetic and did kinda prove itself well ...

-DSM

 

[Calan]

Funny how in many previous posts that Mobil1 is the oil to use. Now, it's the most dreaded one to use...

?..HUH, did I miss something here..?

Apparently.

 

[sprmotohooligan]

Maybe we all oughta go back to dino oils and do our good ol' 3k/3month oil changes and all it good. That stuff's been around a lot longer than any synthetic and did kinda prove itself well ...

Rotella Dino-Oil FTW

 

[red_devil]

Dont get me wrong i like the shell rotella t6 then the mobil 1 10w-30 but with my car having moderate mods seein 22-24lbs of boost and in summer time i think id like to have a 10w then 5w mostly all dsmers dont run a 5w in summer time. Also since mobil 1 10w-40 has a higher flashpoint then the t6 wouldnt the shell breakdown before the mobil would?

Why are you worried about the winter grade? Do you run your car hard when it’s not up to operating temperature? The difference between 10w30 and 5w40 is that the T6 will stay slightly thicker at operating temperature than the 10w30. In most cases you want a lower winter number because this helps prevent wear during start up and warm up operations. In most cases even a 5w30 is too thick during start up for most engines.

 

[donniekak]

People seem to have a fundamental problem understanding multi-viscosity oils. All oils thin out as temperatures increase. A 5w-30 oil behaves like a 5 grade oil when it isn't heated, but only thins out as much as a 30 grade when up to temp. A 10w-30 behaves as a 10 grade oil when cold, and a 30 when warm. The only difference in these 2 oils, is that the 10w-30 won't flow as well as the 5w-30 when you first start the car.

A 5w-40 oil will be act as a 40 grade oil when up to temp, and a 5 when starting. A 10w-30 oil is only a higher grade oil than a 5w-40 at startup. As soon as operating temperature is reached, the 5w-40, is a much thicker oil than the 10w-30.

 

[talontsiboy24]

Why are you worried about the winter grade? Do you run your car hard when it’s not up to operating temperature? The difference between 10w30 and 5w40 is that the T6 will stay slightly thicker at operating temperature than the 10w30. In most cases you want a lower winter number because this helps prevent wear during start up and warm up operations. In most cases even a 5w30 is too thick during start up for most engines.

i dunno just alot of dsmers even a shop out here telling me to run at least a 10w-40 for summer time cause a 5w is gonna be like water when the temps outside are like 100f. I was thinkin to use mobil 10w-40 for summer but i saw alot of blackstone sheets of the rotella t6 and it held up better then mobil it showed to have alot more zinc in it and less or even no wear thing is i have to keep adding this t6 oil cause its thin and its finding its ways to leak out but when i use 10w is less oil consumption.

 

[Tyeler18]

i dunno just alot of dsmers even a shop out here telling me to run at least a 10w-40 for summer time cause a 5w is gonna be like water when the temps outside are like 100f. I was thinkin to use mobil 10w-40 for summer but i saw alot of blackstone sheets of the rotella t6 and it held up better then mobil it showed to have alot more zinc in it and less or even no wear thing is i have to keep adding this t6 oil cause its thin and its finding its ways to leak out but when i use 10w is less oil consumption.

Like I've told you in countless of your other threads, you need to do more research. Whatever "shop" told you it would be like water is lying. I use 0w-20 in my dsms in the winter time and 5w-30 in the summer. They do see lots of track time and lots of abuse driving around. Like someone else posted, a 5w-30 oil will ONLY be different from a 10w-30 at start up. I don't care how many mods YOU have on your car, you could run 5w-30 all summer long and see no ill effects from it.

As far as "leaking out" oil, a 10w compared to a 10w t6 has nothing to do with oil "leaking out." If the one is leaking/burning off then both will. Please point me to where you find t6 being "thinner."