Shell Rotella T6 Synthetic oil anybody using this?

[talontsiboy24]

I heard too much good about shell rotella t6 synthetic so im gonna give it a try i went to walmart and got about 5quarts of it for $27 tax included! Im switching my oil from mobil 1 syn 10w-30 to Shell Rotella T6 Synthetic 5w-40 for winter time heard this oil is awesome and i read alot about how tough it is especially for turbos and heat! My car has moderate mods and sees max 24psi of boost and high rpms here and there. I do plan on switching when summer comes by to 10w-40 or 15w-50.

Here is the full information about this oil= http://www-static.shell.com/static/...ts_services/lubricants/rotella/rotella_t6.pdf

the flashpoints in the oils celcius converted to fahrenheit=

Shell Rotella t6 syn= 435.2f

Amsoil Dominator
5w-20 = 437f
10w-30= 453f
20w-50= 453f

Amsoil 20w-50= 451f

BradPenn=
ow-30= 385f
10w-30 10w-40 10w-50= 400f
20w-50= 420f

Royal Purple flashpoint 400f Royal Purple Racing Oil flashpoint 420f

Castrol Syntec ow20 threw 10w-40= 392f

Mobil 1 syn
15-50= 449.6f
10w-40=464f
10w-30= 446f
5w-30= 437f
5w-20= 442.4f
0w-40= 446f


Valvoline Fully Synthetic=
ow-20= 428f
5w-20= 429.8f
5w-30 and 10w-30= 433.4f

Valvoline Not Street Legal Synthetic=
5w-30= 460.4f
10w-30= 478.4f
20w-50= 500f

Valvoline vr-1 racing motor oil
10w-30= 429.8f
20w-50= 478.4f

So i see mobil 1 is better in flashpoint then the shell im using but i only plan on using it for winter time and the shell does contain more zinc then the mobil also has a better flashpoint then most oils i stated here and i would still choose bradpenn over mobil 1 even though mobil has a higher flashpoint because it has more zinc in it and forcedperformance even said its really good to use. Amsoil 100% synthetic and racing oils are expensive and 20w-50 oils are too thick for winter time. My car is not heavily modified or built motor so no reason to run racing oil either.

 

[talontsiboy24]

Like I've told you in countless of your other threads, you need to do more research. Whatever "shop" told you it would be like water is lying. I use 0w-20 in my dsms in the winter time and 5w-30 in the summer. They do see lots of track time and lots of abuse driving around. Like someone else posted, a 5w-30 oil will ONLY be different from a 10w-30 at start up. I don't care how many mods YOU have on your car, you could run 5w-30 all summer long and see no ill effects from it.

As far as "leaking out" oil, a 10w compared to a 10w t6 has nothing to do with oil "leaking out." If the one is leaking/burning off then both will. Please point me to where you find t6 being "thinner."

t6 is 5w not 10w is why im saying it finds its ways to leak out more then a 10w would cause its a thinner weight.

 

[Tyeler18]

t6 is 5w not 10w is why im saying it finds its ways to leak out more then a 10w would cause its a thinner weight.

It is less VISCOUS at start up. You clearly still don't understand. If one's burning off then both will be burning off. Unless your burning off a shit ton at initial start up (which you're not) then there is zero difference.

 

[MY1GDSM]

t6 is 5w not 10w is why im saying it finds its ways to leak out more then a 10w would cause its a thinner weight.

Leak out Sorry but, do you retain any of the info people provide to you?

PLEASE

Go to the top of the page click:

Forums

Scrool down and click:

My Threads

An again please take the time to reread the responses in the 4-5 threads you have started about oil.... Or for that matter the the previous discussion we had in the Main "Which Oil" thread...

 

[DSM1G90]

"..leaking out ??"

... get the danged MoFo fixed so it quits leaking....

Better watch out and be more careful, for these nonsense threads where it goes in circles and doesn't end is gonna get locked and a mod will lock your account out out on a probation period.

 

[Yamaharyder600]

I like the shell stuff for the time being. Has anyone else read Force Performances Write up on oils for the 4g63? Lots of good info.

 

[3parks]

It appears that a lot of people haven't read the link in the 4th post. I didn't have the slightest idea about motor oils and the numbers associated with them but after reading it, I understand. A 0w-30 is the same viscosity when your engine temp is at 212f as a 15w-30. There is no oil that is too "thin" at startup. Do some reading on that link and learn lots

 

[DSM1G90]

..but, who's dumb enough to dump 0w/30 in a DSM motor, or any motor in that case?

...just go with what works for your application and stick with it - I've been doing that for years and never lost a motor - big ol' snarly V8, or dinky 1100cc Honda 4 cylinder.

 

[rocket-rod69]

Well, according to this, taken from the shell link:
Shell Rotella T6 provides extra protection against breakdown
by heat and offers up to 70% better oxidation resistance,
compared to conventional SAE 15W-40 API CJ-4 oil.* Tests
also show up to 81% less deposits than average API CJ-4 SAE
15W-40 results**.

It seems that the shell rotetta t6 provides better protection from heat than the 15w40 does which is even thicker than your typical
10w30 oils. Not just that but it has a much higher zinc content than most synthetic oils and even race oils. The t6 oil also has detergents like your mobil 1, royal purple, etc. Something that race oils don't have. (according to FP).
If this is true, then the rotella t6 oil offers unsurpass protection against engine wear at low and high temperatures. Specially on startup which is where most of the engine wear happens.
So why shouldn't it be used on summer days or temperatures above 60*f???
Thanks.

I would be cautious using ANY CJ-4 oils..Delo is the only 15w-40 that I know of still making the "old" CI-4..(still has high levels of zinc and phosphorus) but it's only available in bulk quatities..I am a distributor and have it in 300 gal tanks!

 

[Kyle_T]

Has anybody been running this oil all summer in a warmer climate? Im interested in running Rotella T6.

 

[knochgoon24]

Warmer climate? I ran it all summer in my Talon with +90° heat. I'll run it all winter too.

 

[thecman02]

The oil is good stuff. Don't listen to any of the useless banter a select few people keep littering the forums with. This is one of the best group III oils out.

 

[Nasty Dream]

I have no faith in Mitsu and their opinion on oiling needs...

...sub-par stock crank bearings, balance shafts that like to seize up, lifters that tick, and piston oil sprayers that like to clog open. Mitsu did a really good job designing the oiling on our cars.

SLAAAM



Interested in the results of that analysis.

I've always used Mobil 1 10w30 syn. It gets hotter than hell here in the summer and am too lazy to change oils at any other time than my leisure.

But you have my full attention when you mention Shell and new performance motor oil.

I'm going to be changing my oil next week and the worst of summer is over anyway. May try this Rottela stuff out for myself.

 

[Kyle_T]

Warmer climate? I ran it all summer in my Talon with +90° heat. I'll run it all winter too.

Are you running the T6 5w40? Are you still on stock internals? What oil did you run before and how do you like the Rotella compared to your previous oil?

The oil is good stuff. Don't listen to any of the useless banter a select few people keep littering the forums with. This is one of the best group III oils out.

Are you using the T6 5w40?

 

[knochgoon24]

Well the UOA came back looking fine. I need to do another oil change here when I get a chance and send that in.

 

[Kyle_T]

Yea, I saw that thread when I was doing some searching on this oil. I think I might pick some up tonight. So your using the T6 5w40 then?

 

[ontario AWD]

T6 5w40 is what i run in my car and my quads.It is small engine and wet clutch compatable for the bikes and offers great protection for our turbocharged engines.All at a Wallmart price

 

[obsidian]

Well this was certainly interesting.

First off, my turbo diesel V8 uses 10w-30 oil and I've had the oil analysis on those and guess what, perfect. That engine was called for 15w-40 but that engine shears down the oil from a 40-wt to a 30wt. The first number, the cold one, is lower so that it flows better during initial startup which is HUGELY important in this HUGE V8.

The turbo diesel 4 cylinder in my wife's car REQUIRES a 5w-40 synthetic oil, guess what, T6 it is.

So, with that said, I may as well buy T6 in bulk and use it in my Turbo Diesel truck, my Turbo Diesel car, and my Turbo AWD beast.

To the OP, thank you very much for the info and to knochgoon24, thanks for the oil analysis.

Quick question however though. How do you think the 4G63 would like regular Rotella 15w-40? I have that in BULK quantities and since the oil is bleeding out anyway (about a qt every 2 weeks so far) I don't want to use anything costly.

Believe it's the front main seal so I just haven't gotten the time to address it yet.

 

[knochgoon24]

Since it's not cold, 15w-40 will work just fine.

 

[thecman02]

I am using this oil. Any info?

 

[knochgoon24]

Nope. None what so ever. No one on the internet has ever used this oil before.

 

[Don Lang]

I use Chevron Delo 400 15-40. I've had good luck with it, oil pressure stays good, doesn't seem to break down and not that expensive. They run it in 18 wheelers 10k mi. + between changes. I used it for years before my machinist, that bored my Evo 8 block recomended it. He didn't know I already used it. Anyone know the specs? Now I'm revisiting my oil selection. Going to go Cat-less soon. So considering race oil too. My bearing clearances are at the limit of factory spec's.

 

[ed1380]

Well this was certainly interesting.

First off, my turbo diesel V8 uses 10w-30 oil and I've had the oil analysis on those and guess what, perfect. That engine was called for 15w-40 but that engine shears down the oil from a 40-wt to a 30wt. The first number, the cold one, is lower so that it flows better during initial startup which is HUGELY important in this HUGE V8.

The turbo diesel 4 cylinder in my wife's car REQUIRES a 5w-40 synthetic oil, guess what, T6 it is.

So, with that said, I may as well buy T6 in bulk and use it in my Turbo Diesel truck, my Turbo Diesel car, and my Turbo AWD beast.

To the OP, thank you very much for the info and to knochgoon24, thanks for the oil analysis.

Quick question however though. How do you think the 4G63 would like regular Rotella 15w-40? I have that in BULK quantities and since the oil is bleeding out anyway (about a qt every 2 weeks so far) I don't want to use anything costly.

Believe it's the front main seal so I just haven't gotten the time to address it yet.

Tdi?
I use delo 15-40 in almost everything.

 

[Don Lang]

I'm sticking with Delo, at least till I go catless.

 

[92nolatist]

I know this thread is kind of old, but I came across this bit of info while doing some research on the net about oil viscosity and high temperatures. Here it is:
http://www.zddplus.com/TechBrief13%20-%20Oil%20Viscosity.pdf

 

[Kyle_T]

Hmmmm rotella t6 5w40 full synthetic or t5 10w30 synthetic blend

I wish they made a 10w40 full synthetic rotella