The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

synthetic oil??

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Spoolin18

10+ Year Contributor
836
0
Feb 2, 2009
Albany, Kentucky
I hate to put up another post but I have a question. Its about my DD, I'm thinking of switching to a synthetic oil and maybe a k&n oil filter. Its got a tad over 55k on it, I've used 5w30 gtx in it since I owned it. I'm just curious if this would be a smart move or not, what weight..I know what brand I want and how long between changes? I usually go about 3-5k know. As always, any info is much obliged.
 
it would be a good choice but remeber you will always have to run synthitic in it afterwards. 5W 30 is what the factory says to run in it so i would go with that.My choice on the oil (which i run in mine) is 5w 30 mobile 1 extented performance oil.
 
Mobil 1 is good for a factory performance car but I would go with 10W30 during summer, that's what Mitsu recommends.
 
it would be a good choice but remeber you will always have to run synthitic in it afterwards.
Why is that? I've never had problems switching around.

5W 30 is what the factory says to run in it so i would go with that.My choice on the oil (which i run in mine) is 5w 30 mobile 1 extented performance oil.
That's mainly for a 100% stock setup (which the op does have). I personally run Rotella 15-40 in my engine.

Mobil 1 isn't too bad for a stock motor so go for it.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
it would be a good choice but remeber you will always have to run synthitic in it afterwards. 5W 30 is what the factory says to run in it so i would go with that.My choice on the oil (which i run in mine) is 5w 30 mobile 1 extented performance oil.

Wrong, you can switch from regular to synthetic anytime; the manual also recommends 10w30 as the most broad area of temperatures. But 5w30 is just fine for our cars.

As to what brand that is up to you and can be debated to insanity.
 
it would be a good choice but remeber you will always have to run synthitic in it afterwards.

FALSE STATEMENT!!! Just because you run synthetic oil does not mean that you have to run it forever. You can switch back and forth if you would like. The myth that synthetic oils cause your seals to swell is not true. This misconception is from people who have switched when they have leaks already present and the synthetic oil breaks down deposits that have built up over the years, causing the leak to appear larger once switching back to conventional oil. If you have maintained your vehicle properly in the past then you wont run into these problems by switching. Any 4 stroke gasoline engine synthetic and conventional oil is 100% compatible.

As for the OP, its not a bad idea to switch to synthetic. Potential for better MPG's, better wear protection, ect. I say go for it!
 
I have heard a lot of good things on thicker oil, I am pretty much set on running 20w-50 when my car is done. Its on a summer car though. I am not even sure if im gonna run synthetic, maybe partial synthetic.
 
it looked like his car might be stock.which is why i suggested running what the factory said but if you have a built motor yes, thicker oil is better.Is you car stock what do you have done to i, and thanks sobmurda and 1990awd i wouldent switch from oil to oil like that though just my opinion.
 
Why do we have an oil-related thread in the Hangout?

Then again, why do we have another synthetic oil-related thread that belongs here: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/5215-synthetic-oil-merged-16.html



5W 30 is what the factory says to run in it so i would go with that.My choice on the oil (which i run in mine) is 5w 30 mobile 1 extented performance oil.
Mitsubishi does not recommend 5W30 for our cars- I don't know where you people keep coming up with that misinformation.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


^ So unless you live within the confines of the Actric circle...
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
Why do we have an oil-related thread in the Hangout?

Then again, why do we have another synthetic oil-related thread that belongs here: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/5215-synthetic-oil-merged-16.html




Mitsubishi does not recommend 5W30 for our cars- I don't know where you people keep coming up with that misinformation.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


^ So unless you live within the confines of the Actric circle...


somebody is touchy LOL :toobad:
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
Why do we have an oil-related thread in the Hangout?

Then again, why do we have another synthetic oil-related thread that belongs here: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/5215-synthetic-oil-merged-16.html




Mitsubishi does not recommend 5W30 for our cars- I don't know where you people keep coming up with that misinformation.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


^ So unless you live within the confines of the Actric circle...

Sorry, I'll take my punishment. I should've searched but I was in a hurry(no excuse).
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
Im switching to 20w-40 I hear good things in high heat

Go with a 5w40 if you must. 20w40 Is really thick at start up and really doesn't help your motor at all. Running a thicker cold weight puts added stress on the engine, while a 5w40 is thinner when the engine is cold but the same thickness as the 20w40 at operating temp.

These oil thread are exhausting, we really need an oil explanation before people sign up on this site.
 
I love Rotella T 15w40...but my oil pressure is so high that it's just not reasonable for me to run it. I see 75 ~ 80psi at 3k rpm after a hour of driving...makes it a bit hard to enjoy the 'extra protection'.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Latest Classifieds

  • Wanted 2g Shot in the dark (2g Pass strut cut out)
    Need 2g strut tower to save time.
    • frosh29
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 2g 2G Mishimoto Radiator & Fan Shroud
    2G Mishimoto Radiator & Fan Shroud $200 + shipping and paypal feesYou must be registered to...
    • jersygsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale VIRGIN 4G63 6-BOLT TURBO HEAD
    Came off a virgin stock AWD Auto 1G DMS (91), also have matching block and crank which are also...
    • The_Partout_Spot
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 1G DSM 4G63 6-BOLT TIMING COVER
    Used, see condition in photos. Buyer covers shipping / fees.
    • The_Partout_Spot
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale Garage clean out
    Changing setups on the car and getting rid of some stuff as well that's been laying around. Will...
    • 92GSXtacy
    • Updated:
    • Expires
Back
Top