Shell Rotella T6 Synthetic oil anybody using this?

[talontsiboy24]

I heard too much good about shell rotella t6 synthetic so im gonna give it a try i went to walmart and got about 5quarts of it for $27 tax included! Im switching my oil from mobil 1 syn 10w-30 to Shell Rotella T6 Synthetic 5w-40 for winter time heard this oil is awesome and i read alot about how tough it is especially for turbos and heat! My car has moderate mods and sees max 24psi of boost and high rpms here and there. I do plan on switching when summer comes by to 10w-40 or 15w-50.

Here is the full information about this oil= http://www-static.shell.com/static/...ts_services/lubricants/rotella/rotella_t6.pdf

the flashpoints in the oils celcius converted to fahrenheit=

Shell Rotella t6 syn= 435.2f

Amsoil Dominator
5w-20 = 437f
10w-30= 453f
20w-50= 453f

Amsoil 20w-50= 451f

BradPenn=
ow-30= 385f
10w-30 10w-40 10w-50= 400f
20w-50= 420f

Royal Purple flashpoint 400f Royal Purple Racing Oil flashpoint 420f

Castrol Syntec ow20 threw 10w-40= 392f

Mobil 1 syn
15-50= 449.6f
10w-40=464f
10w-30= 446f
5w-30= 437f
5w-20= 442.4f
0w-40= 446f


Valvoline Fully Synthetic=
ow-20= 428f
5w-20= 429.8f
5w-30 and 10w-30= 433.4f

Valvoline Not Street Legal Synthetic=
5w-30= 460.4f
10w-30= 478.4f
20w-50= 500f

Valvoline vr-1 racing motor oil
10w-30= 429.8f
20w-50= 478.4f

So i see mobil 1 is better in flashpoint then the shell im using but i only plan on using it for winter time and the shell does contain more zinc then the mobil also has a better flashpoint then most oils i stated here and i would still choose bradpenn over mobil 1 even though mobil has a higher flashpoint because it has more zinc in it and forcedperformance even said its really good to use. Amsoil 100% synthetic and racing oils are expensive and 20w-50 oils are too thick for winter time. My car is not heavily modified or built motor so no reason to run racing oil either.

 

[red_devil]

Hmmmm rotella t6 5w40 full synthetic or t5 10w30 synthetic blend

I wish they made a 10w40 full synthetic rotella

Why? When the t6 is better for start up?

 

[jrohner]

I even used the 5w40 in my circle track racecar, where the oil temps got over 300 degrees and it worked great. Didn't really see a difference in temps from 15w40 to the synthetic 5w4, and the only difference in oil pressure that it was more consistent with differing temps (not as high cold but still good hot).

I've ran the 5w40 year-round in my DSM's and I've never had any engine trouble.

 

[LandSpeed-DSM]

I use Rotella T6 5w40.

 

[JrCRXHF]

Year round in the cummins 5.9 from all the study's i have read on it its great oil esp for the money. I am still on mobil 1 in my evo and dsm but i think both are going to T6 soon.

 

[gprix1]

+1 for Rotella T6 5w40

Think about this for a second. I live in Arizona and it's been over 100* daily for a while now and yet when I startup my car, my pressure at idle is around 60psi with 5w-40 oil. Once the engine fully warms up the pressure settles down to about 16psi. So, would anyone say my startup oil weight is too low? Of course not that would make no sense at all because you can clearly see that the oil is still by-far, much thicker at startup than it is at operating temperature.
Going to 10w-40 or 15w40 would only further increase oil pressure (reducing flow) at startup and still end up at 16psi at operating temp's.

The most important criterion for good lubrication is OIL FLOW, not oil pressure

http://www.synforce.com.au/node/24

As noted, Synthetics usually have a naturally higher viscosity index than even the artificially increased VI of mineral oils. Therefore, a 0W40 is better than a 10W40, since both offer the same viscosity (SAE40) at running temperature, but the SAE 0W will circulate more readily during a cold start than a SAE 10W. It is patently incorrect, as is often stated, that 0W40 is too thin when compared to a 10W40. How is it too thin? In fact the performance of a cheap 20W50 sheared down in service is likely to be far worse than that of a 0W40 at running temperatures. See Graph 4 below.

http://www.kewengineering.co.uk/Auto_oils/oil_viscosity_explained.htm

It is time to dispel the notion that 0W-30 oil is too thin when your manual calls for 10W-30. A 0W-30 is always the better choice, always. The 0W-30 is not thinner. It is the same thickness as the 10W-30 at operating temperatures

http://www.positivespin.us/MotorOil.htm

I can't tell you how many times I have heard someone, usually an auto mechanic, say that they wouldn't use a 5W-30 motor oil because it is, "Too thin." Then they may use a 10W-30 or SAE 30 motor oil. At engine operating temperatures these oils are the same. The only time the 5W-30 oil is "thin" is at cold start up conditions where you need it to be "thin."

http://www.upmpg.com/tech_articles/motoroil_viscosity/

 

[Kyle_T]

Ive heard people say to stick with a 10w unless in the winter. But with all the positive feedback on 5w40 t6 thats what Ill be getting

 

[LxiMax]

So how good is the T6 on a bone stock car? May switch to this stuff if it's fine for a mostly stock vehicle.

 

[ed1380]

If it handle high hp then stock is no sweat for it