seperating 6 bolt piston and rod

[danyz250f]

How do I seperate the stock 6 bolt piston and rods. Is there clips in the pin or is the pin pressed through the piston and rod and has to be pressed out some how?

 

[drivemusicnow]

How do I seperate the stock 6 bolt piston and rods. Is there clips in the pin or is the pin pressed through the piston and rod and has to be pressed out some how?

Stock rods and pistons are press fit. That means that the pin is solidly "in" the rod small end.

What you need to do is heat up the rod end as much as possible. Then use a press to press the pin out. It is very easy to break the piston in this process, so decide ahead of time whether you're going to take your time and "save" the pistons, or just get the pins out for the rods and possibly break the pistons.

 

[danyz250f]

The pistons have allready kissed valves and gone 235,000 miles so I am not to conserned about the pistons.

How do I heat the rods? just with a torch, and wouldnt this weaken the rod?

 

[drivemusicnow]

The pistons have allready kissed valves and gone 235,000 miles so I am not to conserned about the pistons.

How do I heat the rods? just with a torch, and wouldnt this weaken the rod?

With a torch works... and no, considering that they have to be heated up in order to put the wrist pin in in the first place. There are actually machines called "rod end heaters" that are essentially mini ovens with a hole in them you stick the rod.

Now, that said, you don't want them glowing bright red while you press the pin out either.

 

[JaxTalonTSi]

I wouldn't try it yourself. Take it to your local machine shop, they can have the wrist pins pressed out carefully, and quickly, and they won't charge you much. Better that than taking the chance of damaging the piston.

 

[groundPork]

I wouldn't try it yourself. Take it to your local machine shop, they can have the wrist pins pressed out carefully, and quickly, and they won't charge you much. Better that than taking the chance of damaging the piston.

Yeah unless you have a hydraulic or arbor press, you won't be able to remove the piston. Have a shop do it. If you wanna know what they do, most will cold press the pin out, though they should heat it a little, it doesn't damage the rod, but almost 100% of the time colapses the pistons, sometimes crushes them. So don't re-use them afterward. Even if you can't detect damage, The force usually renders them useless. When they press the pins back in you'd actually be surprised they usually do heat the small ends to glowing red, freeze the pins, then slid them togather by hand with lube.

What I suggest, is if you're putting the motor togather yourself, maybe you should just ensure you have good rods for future HP and get Eagles or something, the extra $250 or so is well worth it, you can put the things togather your self, and reduce wear on the bottom end.

 

[drivemusicnow]

Yeah unless you have a hydraulic or arbor press, you won't be able to remove the piston. Have a shop do it. If you wanna know what they do, most will cold press the pin out, though they should heat it a little, it doesn't damage the rod, but almost 100% of the time colapses the pistons, sometimes crushes them. So don't re-use them afterward. Even if you can't detect damage, The force usually renders them useless. When they press the pins back in you'd actually be surprised they usually do heat the small ends to glowing red, freeze the pins, then slid them togather by hand with lube.

What I suggest, is if you're putting the motor togather yourself, maybe you should just ensure you have good rods for future HP and get Eagles or something, the extra $250 or so is well worth it, you can put the things togather your self, and reduce wear on the bottom end.

... couple things:

1) how does an aftermarket rod "reduce wear on the bottom end"

2) how does an aftermarket rod help at all, if under 500 hp

3) yes, you could assemble it yourself, however you'd be spending about the same amount as having a good machine shop order 2g pistons, machine them to fit, press the old pins out and the new pins in. hmm aftermarket rods, or 1g/2g combo set and ready to go.

I am in no way saying that aftermarket rods are bad. I just think people are WAY to quick to jump to them as an option. The eagle/Wiseco combo will cost you 750 minimum. 1g/2g combo, when you already have the rods, will cost you between 250 and 300, depending on the machine shop.

 

[groundPork]

... couple things:

1) how does an aftermarket rod "reduce wear on the bottom end"

2) how does an aftermarket rod help at all, if under 500 hp

3) yes, you could assemble it yourself, however you'd be spending about the same amount as having a good machine shop order 2g pistons, machine them to fit, press the old pins out and the new pins in. hmm aftermarket rods, or 1g/2g combo set and ready to go.

I am in no way saying that aftermarket rods are bad. I just think people are WAY to quick to jump to them as an option. The eagle/Wiseco combo will cost you 750 minimum. 1g/2g combo, when you already have the rods, will cost you between 250 and 300, depending on the machine shop.

Good Point about the actual horsepower level requiring billet rods. But keep in mind forged pistons and good race rods can take a bigger hit than OEM without completely failing and causing serious damage to the block at least in most cases.

In full floating pin arragements the pin is free to rotate withiiin the pin bores of the respective rod or piston allowing it to wear evenly by ditributing load and friction over the full circumference of the pin. Also the piston is less likely to bind on the pin causing the piston to want to dig into the cylinder eventually siezing the engine (granted this is in extreme cases, where the assembly was not likely checked and assembled already with the setup binding). Again the afformentioned is an example of apossible problem resulting from crappy machine shop and/or user assemlby work.

But I suppose I have over looked the fact that he is clearly just rebuilding, and I agree with you, he probably doesn't need to invest in aftermaket rods and forged pistons at this moment. Stock rods are great! For what they will work for.

 

[drivemusicnow]

I agree.

 

[danyz250f]

HA HA sorry guys I am just pressin the pistons off to sell them. I have wiseco pistons and scat rods. I want to do some big numbers someday So I am trying to do it right the first time.

So anybody want some 1g rods, they came out of a 90 turbo laser.

The machine shop charged me an out ragious price of 12 bucks to press the pins out, and yes the nasty stock pistons were shot. I am alittle scared tobolt all the stuff together but I think I can get through it.

I am getting the balancing shaft removed and everything in the bottom end balanced. I ported the head and am looking for lifters and a good set of cams springs and retainers. But remember I am on a budget.