ECMlink SD Tune is gone after Aeromotive FPR install... DSMLINK HELP!

[snowborder714]

Please don't bump your threads. If you need help, send some PM's to people who have helped you out in the past.

1. Your TPS needs to be adjusted. It's at .51v at idle and should be at .63v.

2. Your ISCPosition is a bit high at idle (should be around 30).

3. In your 2nd log, just view your AFRatioEst and wideband during the pull. This will show you (as well as using the track datalog feature) what cells need to be adjusted in the VE table. You can also use either the spreadsheet my brother (turbosax2) created for SD WOT tuning or calan's LinkTools spreadsheet to help do this.

4. The reason the timing seemed a bit aggressive in the Evo table and you're getting knock (2nd log) is that you're only showing a load factor of 1.8, which is still in the high timing portion of the table.

5. I don't see a 3rd gear pull from 2k to redline, so I can't really evaluate WOT tuning.

 

[Archer Fabrications]

fixed the bump, i was messing with the ISC this weekend and it was staying at a high 40s to 50s i dont know whats going on with it.. unless the leaky seal is whats causing that the pull with knock was a 3rd gear pull and i had to pull out when i got knock...i guess ill lower the timing in that load factor.. (by how much?) and see if i still get knock. i will tell you the car feels 100 times better with higher timing but i never know HOW MUCH to adjust it before i do another pull and check the results.

im pretty sure my fuel trims are good right? and WB? i know that ill hit a 12:1 right at the end of my WOT and at the beginning see a 10:1 and the middle see an 11.3:1 or so before it goes to 12:1, then i have to back out because 12 sketches me out. so im a little afraid at the beginning of my pull im washing out the cylinder wall and by the end im burning things too hot due to lack of fuel... i dont have an EGT sensor so the only way im monitoring temps in the exhaust is by knock.

 

[snowborder714]

If you can't get the ISCPosition down to 30, then I'd suspect you have a boost leak somewhere. You indicated you have leaking seals, which would probably do it. Get those fixed and you should be able to adjust the BISS to get ISCPosition in check. The leak should have nothing to do with the knock however.

Lower the timing by how much knock you see. Current timing + knock = Target timing. So if you're seeing 1.4 counts of knock, I would pull 1-2° of timing. It really is a guess and check, as well as how much knock you're comfortable having. I usually target 0 knock, but if I see a .4 or .7 blip, it's not the end of the world. Anything over 1 count I will usually correct.

If you're hitting 12:1 at the end of your log then there's one of two things going on. Either your MAF Comp isn't calibrated for that Hz level or your DA table is targeting that value. The first option is your issue though. Once you get your airflow dialed in, your AFR will target whatever is in your DA table. If you're seeing 12:1, yes, I'd be a bit worried if I was on pump.

 

[Archer Fabrications]

If you can't get the ISCPosition down to 30, then I'd suspect you have a boost leak somewhere. You indicated you have leaking seals, which would probably do it. Get those fixed and you should be able to adjust the BISS to get ISCPosition in check. The leak should have nothing to do with the knock however.

Lower the timing by how much knock you see. Current timing + knock = Target timing. So if you're seeing 1.4 counts of knock, I would pull 1-2° of timing. It really is a guess and check, as well as how much knock you're comfortable having. I usually target 0 knock, but if I see a .4 or .7 blip, it's not the end of the world. Anything over 1 count I will usually correct.

If you're hitting 12:1 at the end of your log then there's one of two things going on. Either your MAF Comp isn't calibrated for that Hz level or your DA table is targeting that value. The first option is your issue though. Once you get your airflow dialed in, your AFR will target whatever is in your DA table. If you're seeing 12:1, yes, I'd be a bit worried if I was on pump.

i have yet to plug in my MAF again to adjust for the VE, is there a better way to do it without the MAF for calibration?

ahh yes now i get it thank you very much, pull as much timing as knock you see (makes sense as it is knock RETARD right?) after i lower the timing im guessing i still need to smooth out the cells correct? ill have to go back and see which side o ring the BISS was again, im not gonna go to a dealer and wait a week for an o ring so ill go to the hardware store i know the o ring size was somewhere in this thread. i also had a leak from my metal TB gasket.. so ill still have to put some RTV on there and call it a day but havent had time to disassemble the fmic pipes yet. one of my FMIC mounting bolts broke so that's the first thing i have to do to keep her mounted up ... so amusing my MAF is calibrated perfectly and my fuel trims are in check i SHOULD be hitting a perfect target AFR in the DA table correct? or if not perfect damn close?

yes im on pump but i did start another thread asking where everyone is finding race gas or 110 oct in northern Washington so i might be switching fuels if i can find something close enough.

I believe it's something like a #5 o-ring. You can get them at any ACE hardware store.

EDIT:

From the VFAQ page, a #5 3/8" OD x 1/4" ID x 1/16" will work.

Or just go with a factory replacement as Brian mentioned. The P/N is MD608806, and is $4.55 from ExtremePSI.

thanks calan

Edit: just went to napa and they had a OD 3/8ths but an ID of 1/8th so it probably wont work as its not thicke enough of a rubber... ill go to ace on my next break and see if they have a #5 if thats all id ask down there..

Edit #2: yes #5 o ring is at the correct specs as calan said, and i think the only comapny that would call it a #5 would be ace. anwyay for those that wonder, its .59 cents instead of going to extreme and paying 5 bucks.

is there a way to ground the ISC through DSMLink? or do i HAVE to do what was said in the VFAQ... just curious if ther is an easier way

 

[snowborder714]

Yes, you'll need to adjust the SD table if you're running speed density. See the two links I mentioned in post #101.

Yes, you'll want to smooth out the timing table when you adjust values.

If your airflow is calibrated perfectly, then yes, your AFR will match exactly (or pretty damn close) to the MaxOct DA table.

 

[Archer Fabrications]

Yes, you'll need to adjust the SD table if you're running speed density. See the two links I mentioned in post #101.

Yes, you'll want to smooth out the timing table when you adjust values.

If your airflow is calibrated perfectly, then yes, your AFR will match exactly (or pretty damn close) to the MaxOct DA table.

thanks a bunch, yeah i saw the links i dont have excel though, im on a mac anyway and microsoft software for mac is pretty spendy thanks for the information man i appreciate it.. will be back with more logs after some timing and VE adjustments

 

[ZenkaiRacerDsM]

Very informative thread! I can't wait to try out Glenn's take on timing. Just gotta wait till I get out of this sandbox.

 

[MY1GDSM]

Have you made any progress with your VE map?

 

[Archer Fabrications]

I'm guessing there are in the Military... .

But, let's keep this on topic as this in the Tech forums OP



Have you made any progress with your VE map?

fixed. i havent made adjustments yet been busy with other stuff. but have time enough to lurk over here.. im guessing i might be able to do something easter sunday but i have an fmic bolt that broke so my core is hanging by only one side and the pipes not driving too much right now

i cant get my BISS out i tried unscrewing it all the way and picking it out with plyers and something tio pry it out and the screw itself started to decay its not anything bad but is there a secret to getting the BISS out to replace the o ring?

 

[MY1GDSM]

but is there a secret to getting the BISS out to replace the o ring?

Pull the throttle body and Rebuild it completely if the Biss is that bad probably wouldn't hurt... .

 

[snowborder714]

If you have the upper intercooler pipe off, you can open the throttle plate and prod around with a pick/angled item and push it out from the bottom.

 

[Archer Fabrications]

Pull the throttle body and Rebuild it completely if the Biss is that bad probably wouldn't hurt... .

the TB doesnt leak or anything its just the screw itself.. i might just need to buy a new BISS and it wasnt the actual screw that was decaying it was the phillips head groves that were... i do have a 2g TB that i might just steal that BISS from

If you have the upper intercooler pipe off, you can open the throttle plate and prod around with a pick/angled item and push it out from the bottom.

good idea. ill see if it works on my 2g TB before i pull off the TB elbow

 

[Archer Fabrications]

im messing with calans link tools.. having an interesting time with the VE table and the 3d graphing.. am i supposed to just make sure everything inclines gradually? or whats the deal..

 

[snowborder714]

What are you trying to do with the VE table? What you should be shooting for is fairly smooth transitions between cells. A 3D view of that table might not prove that helpful honestly.

 

[Archer Fabrications]

What are you trying to do with the VE table? What you should be shooting for is fairly smooth transitions between cells. A 3D view of that table might not prove that helpful honestly.

I'm really new to getting my airflow dialed in and that's what I'm having most trouble with. Fuel table i think i got the hang of at the moment; I'm just trying to get everything calibrated so i can actually hit my target AFRs. My WB is a decent ways off from my AFR estimate in the logs

if i load a screen shot of my VE table after the corrections ive made and the 3D graph of it.. will you be able to help me with anytihng related to it? or is that just one piece of the puzzle

 

[snowborder714]

I haven't used Craig's spreadsheet so I can't give step-by-step instructions. Have you read through the thread to see if there are any?

Have you tried the one from my brother's thread? It's very easy and straight forward.

 

[MY1GDSM]

Do people really find it that hard to use their own brain and not expect a computer or some Auto adjusting feature to fix things for them?

I don't understand this way of going about things I would assume that anybody that can use these spreadsheets properly (more power to the people that made them and know how)But they could build a VE map properly on there own as well??? I don't understand how it can make anything that much easier? If anything IMO it takes more away from the people trying to use them because they don't understand to begin with... .

IDK Maybe I'm just losing my patience with people... .

 

[snowborder714]

I think a lot of people who have switched to SD don't understand how airflow relates to the values in the SD table, and then how to adjust them to fix the variances they see. A lot of people don't really know the generic goal and understanding of how tuning works. Some people are new to it and some people just don't want to take the time to read up on it.

These spreadsheets are there to make the main bulk of the work easier, but they're not perfect. I had to do some manual adjustments when I was tuning a car this weekend even after using a spreadsheet.

 

[MY1GDSM]

A lot of people don't really know the generic goal and understanding of how tuning works. Some people are new to it and some people just don't want to take the time to read up on it.

Ya, Guess that about sums it up... .

 

[Archer Fabrications]

I think a lot of people who have switched to SD don't understand how airflow relates to the values in the SD table, and then how to adjust them to fix the variances they see. A lot of people don't really know the generic goal and understanding of how tuning works. Some people are new to it and some people just don't want to take the time to read up on it.

These spreadsheets are there to make the main bulk of the work easier, but they're not perfect. I had to do some manual adjustments when I was tuning a car this weekend even after using a spreadsheet.

i agree. not all of us are expert tuners and not all of us understand everything we read.. and believe me i read a ton... see pix above

 

[snowborder714]

Honestly, your table looks pretty smooth. Does it work fine?

 

[Archer Fabrications]

Honestly, your table looks pretty smooth. Does it work fine?

thats cause i just fixed it it was this:
i havent loaded it into the car was just messing with calans link tools and making smoothing adjustments..

does it look lik im headed in the right direction of this was my previous map before i adjusted it?

 

[MY1GDSM]

Nobody can say that for sure with out seeing a log and having ALL the info needed to adjust the Map properly...

not all of us are expert tuners and not all of us understand everything we read..

Problem comes with the fact that these same people expect an Expert tune on their own without understanding/comprehending everything that is at work... .

 

[Archer Fabrications]

Nobody can say that for sure with out seeing a log and having ALL the info needed to adjust the Map properly...


Problem comes with the fact that these same people expect an Expert tune on their own without understanding/comprehending everything that is at work... .

perhaps... im not expecting an expert tune.. i just want things working and to get a good understanding of the program so that someday i can achieve an "expert tune" or at least be able to give other people that as well. this program really interests me but some of the perimeters i just dont quite understand, i have some tuning books by Greg Benish also that im reading and i have questions about some of the stuff and i don't have anywhere else to ask but here when i have them. anyway, i will get a log as soon as i load this to the dsm, like i said i was just playing with the 3D graphing and making sure there was a consistent advance in airflow at a smooth rate. i am currently on a modfied evo 8 mod 1 fuel map and im running 8 psi on my waste gate with my 6152, like i said just trying to get everything dialed in. i get some misfires doing 3rd gear pulls, or i think they are misfires it will sound like it cuts out and then i have to get out of the pull... and the logs don't show it to be knock.

log after i load the VE table up after work today around 5:45-6PM Pacific

 

[ZenkaiRacerDsM]

If your fuel is already dialed in then it should be as simple as changing VE cells along a tracked WOT log to make the actual AFR match the target. Then of course smooth around the changes.

This is of course only for WOT tuning.

As for the misfiring, I would bet that its due to spark blowout.