ECMlink SD Tune is gone after Aeromotive FPR install... DSMLINK HELP!

[Archer Fabrications]

well the title says it. my car was in a fender bender recently and while it was at the shop i thought id have them install a few goodies including the aeromotive FPR and its sitting right at 42ish psi. after i get it back from the shop i try driving it home and my WB is all over the place. but i found to cruise in 4th at around 3krpm going 50-60MPH was the only way to keep it from bucking, and the closest i could get to a 14.7 A/F; anything over that would start a hard bucking dont know why at all.. my Combind FT are all out of wack too.. i can see it looks like it was leaning out and there was no real knock (new knock sensor installed also.) also if anyone is wondering why the timing is so low, i was getting knock and wanted to be safe on the old sensor before i swapped that. you will also notice rough RPMs kind of a small zig zag in the graph line. i am not that great with speed density although i do understand DSMLink fairly well. can someone help me with what might need to be fixed on the VE table or anywhere else? i can clip to the end of the log as well if anyone needs that too.

this log was from the shop on my way home but i had to clip it from the beginning to where it was steady on the log. any and all help is greatly appreciated. ( i have not touched anything since my last tune DSMLink wise.) help me!

unrelated work the shop did was oil pan, Oil pressure gauge, axel seals, bumper,headlights, and other smaller things. that shouldent affect a tune. all the work was done very well i might add.

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[MichaelSuch]

Did you set the FPR at 43psi with the vaccuum hose disconnected from the FPR and hose plugged with your finger? If you didn't do that, try it, I your Fuel pressure will drop when you do that, adjust it to 43psi then. It should richen it up a bit. That's the proper way to set the FPR

 

[Archer Fabrications]

Did you set the FPR at 43psi with the vaccuum hose disconnected from the FPR and hose plugged with your finger? If you didn't do that, try it, I your Fuel pressure will drop when you do that, adjust it to 43psi then. It should richen it up a bit. That's the proper way to set the FPR

like i said the shop did it for me, they said they set base pressure as well (this is a DSMshop) but i can double ceck it when i get the car back on saturday. thanks for the quick reply

 

[Imback]

Your deadtime is off. Lower it down to get the combine ft close to zero then get to work on getting the airflowperrev in check. Also capture SdAirflowperrev

 

[Archer Fabrications]

Your deadtime is off. Lower it down to get the combine ft close to zero then get to work on getting the airflowperrev in check. Also capture SdAirflowperrev

not sure how i would adjust air flow per rev, when i dont have a MAS air flow sensor... just IAT and MAP sensor.. so im pretty sure any airflow stuff would have to be done in the VE table.. i will look at the deadtime.. ECMLink recomended the deadtime to 450 for the PTE 1000CC injectors and the log looks lean to me.. id think if anything more deadtime would be needed..

just re read SDsirflow perrev.. that would make sense

 

[Archer Fabrications]

I havent gotten the car bac from the dealer yet to try. But i might still need help, ill post an idle log when i get her back, also my macbook pro took a shit and i jave to reinstall, but my osx disk were stolen recently from my house among other things

 

[snowborder714]

Once you have the car in your hands:
-test fuel pressure by activating pump via link (car should be off and vacuum line should be connected) and set to 42.6 psi
-do a boost leak test
-watch all of these videos, especially #8 which will help you set your idle (you will adjust the affected SD cells instead of moving MAF Comp sliders - make sure to Track Datalog to figure out what cells are affected)
-post up the idle log, making sure the car is up to temp

 

[Archer Fabrications]

Once you have the car in your hands:
-test fuel pressure by activating pump via link (car should be off and vacuum line should be connected) and set to 42.6 psi
-do a boost leak test
-watch all of these videos, especially #8 which will help you set your idle (you will adjust the affected SD cells instead of moving MAF Comp sliders - make sure to Track Datalog to figure out what cells are affected)
-post up the idle log, making sure the car is up to temp

got the car back the other day, but my computer (macbook pro) has been acting very odd. thought my hard drive was dieing but it is most likely over heating issues.. anyway i just got it back up and running so i will take an idle log as soon as i can, i wanna get it running good again! which videos are you referring to? ECMLink ones? if so i have watched all of them.

 

[snowborder714]

Yes, the ones on their site.

 

[ramsack]

43.5 psi (3 bar).

 

[Archer Fabrications]

43.5 psi (3 bar).

are you referring that to the fuel pressure? stock is 42.6...

 

[ramsack]

I don't know where people are getting this 42.6 number all of a sudden...

 

[Archer Fabrications]

I don't know where people are getting this 42.6 number all of a sudden...

in DSMLink V3 it shows base fuel pressure to be 42.6 PSI check your stock log fuel tab in ECU Config thats where everyone is getting that number.. not so all of a sudden.

 

[ramsack]

Still don't know where THEY got that number from...

 

[Archer Fabrications]

Still don't know where THEY got that number from...

where did you get 3 bar from?

 

[ramsack]

It's what injector flow is actually rated at, and it's been common knowledge that's what the 2g regulator ran at for forever until recently. I've never once seen the 42.6 number before this thread.

 

[Archer Fabrications]

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/bolt-tech/402311-help-fuel-pressure-regulator-gauge.html


post #5

but the op says 3 bar like you, just one of the few places ive seen it.

 

[snowborder714]

That is what the FSM says is stock base pressure for the 2g. It lists it as 294 kPa, which converts to 42.6 psi (although the manual just rounds up to 43 psi).

 

[Archer Fabrications]

That is what the FSM says is stock base pressure for the 2g. It lists it as 294 kPa, which converts to 42.6 psi (although the manual just rounds up to 43 psi).

+1.. and i dont think my gauge is cool enough to diferentiate the .6 i will just have to guess on that one might also be why people are rounding. 42.6 for me as best i can though

 

[Archer Fabrications]

after tweeking some dead times and global they look pretty close, still running lean and bucking a bit, but the LTFT isnt moving much if i add or decrease global.. stft is fine i think.

LOG

bucking could have to do with timing, they were set pretty low on the last tune because we thought the knock sensor was acting up, replaced it but havent chagned timing yet.

 

[Archer Fabrications]

snowboarder, wanna help me out? sugguestions? sorry for the bump

 

[snowborder714]

Did you adjust anything during this log? It's fairly messy in regards to AFR at the beginning of the log, but seems to even out and settle down at the end.

Next time if you want help specifically from me, send me a PM with a link to the thread/post instead of making a post and hope I see it.

 

[MY1GDSM]

I'd say for starters

Just a couple suggestions off of What I seen in there... .

1: Disable W/b simulation or at least set the delay longer then 15sec.

2: Start logging all your fuel trims.

Running anywhere from 10* timing to -8 under boost?

3: Put the timing table back to something close to stock...

Also what's up with your Openloopmaxoct table? you have it richer at low load an it leaner at higher load an at peak Tq?

4: Smooth out your DA table


Anyone have some comments on this part of the log

 

[Archer Fabrications]

i wasnt tuning this last it was tuned, the timing tables are all funky cause of the knock snesor. ill get back to you gusy today

as for the AFR's being out of wack, like i said i just installed a FPR and set base pressure to basicaly 43psi the max oct and min oct are duplicated so there is no variant of what the set afr should be.

im not gonna disable WB simulation because i do not have a front o2 sensor...

 

[snowborder714]

If the timing tables are funky because of a non-existent problem, then go get the Evo 8 timing tables and put them in so they're more "normal".