Running super rich! need help.

ProZach89 · Oct 1, 2013

So I picked up a 1g few weeks back and have been cleaning stuff up and a few oil leaks drove it a little and was running real rich for a stock car 10.0 A/R at idle. Well I took it to mod and it was running alright besides having a clutch fluid leak. for mod we put in 750's, 2g maf, computer tuned for those parts and running around 25psi ( ran great!). Problem now is I took the boost controller off so im running stock 10psi and drove the car for the first time today since i took that off and the car barely runs. Dumping so much fuel and cutting out. Need some opinions on what I should do.

Have run compression test on car, changed the plugs and wires today as well to see if that fixed the problem.

chris00326 · Oct 1, 2013

Sounds like maf

ProZach89 · Oct 1, 2013

chris00326 said:
Sounds like maf

The Maf is supposed to be good. Just doesn't make sense since to me the only thing iv changed since MOD engine wise was I took the boost controller off and changed my stock manifold to another stock one ( mine had a small crack in it.)

The engine is a Studded, has good compression and has a new head on it as well. 14b turbo, FMIC, TIAL, open 02 dump, 750's, 2g maf with plug and play, tuned ECU. The ecu came off the same car the maf and injectors came from. I bought the whole setup.

chris00326 · Oct 1, 2013

How does it act if you unplug maf? have you done a boost leak test?

ProZach89 · Oct 1, 2013

chris00326 said:
How does it act if you unplug maf? have you done a boost leak test?

have not tried unplugging it. tested fine. For some odd reason my car has a front and rear o2. one is in the stock location on the o2 housing and runs to the computer but was unplugged. my wideband has one in my downpipe and the computer was plugged into that.. tried switching that as well and made no difference.

c2ypt1c · Oct 2, 2013

So let's get this straight...car was initially idling at 10.0 afr. Then you added 750's, 2g maf, tuned the ecu and the car ran good? What was the idle afr at this point? How did you tune the ecu?

Then you removed the boost controller and now it runs like crap...doesn't make sense.

ProZach89 said:
tried switching that as well and made no difference.

What do you mean you tried switching it? The wideband doesn't mate with the factory o2 connector...

Sounds like the ecu is not receiving a proper narrowband signal (0.0-1.0 volts, usually supplied by front o2 but can be simulated by the wideband). Is the check engine light on?

performance · Oct 2, 2013

ProZach89 said:
10.0 A/R at idle

I would start with the basics [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TccGNg-vb8g]Tuning 101 - tuning with the car off - YouTube[/ame] Weed out TPS, base idle, etc.. These are helpful. There's a series of 'em videos. BTW idle should be from 14.6-15.2ish. God Bless and God Speed.

ProZach89 · Oct 2, 2013

c2ypt1c said:
So let's get this straight...car was initially idling at 10.0 afr. Then you added 750's, 2g maf, tuned the ecu and the car ran good? What was the idle afr at this point? How did you tune the ecu?

Then you removed the boost controller and now it runs like crap...doesn't make sense.

What do you mean you tried switching it? The wideband doesn't mate with the factory o2 connector...

Sounds like the ecu is not receiving a proper narrowband signal (0.0-1.0 volts, usually supplied by front o2 but can be simulated by the wideband). Is the check engine light on?

initially yes, bought the car running for $500. cleaned it up some but was running, but running rich at idle. This was the week before MOD. We tried the typical things to get the a/r to change and have come up with nothing. The day before mod I got from a friend the injectors, maf, tuned ECU for those exact parts. We installed those and i drove it to MOD, ran great. Now i took off the boost controller and its running like crap.

On the o2 like i stated my car has a front and a rear. the cars factory harness was hooked to the front o2 and my wideband the back o2 in my downpipe behind the engine. We tried in the initial a/r problem hooking the computer to the wideband to see if it helped but didnt. Thats how it was going to mod. We changed it back last night when troubleshooting the new problem that started yesterday.

thomcasey · Oct 2, 2013

Sounds like you have a post MAF boost/vacuum leak. Sounds like it is losing metered air.

ProZach89 · Oct 5, 2013

update... Checked the maf.. that wasn't it. Did some looking around under the hood and noticed that the wires going to my coolant sensors looked off.. Well they were a little messed up and the sensors were in the wrong holes as well as the wires to the ECU temp sensor were touching on the sensor. Fixed all that and it made no different to how the car is running. still 10 A/R's at idle and running richer than bill gates.

chris00326 · Oct 5, 2013

You still havent said wether or not youve done a boost leak test. probly a leak up near throttle body

ProZach89 · Oct 5, 2013

chris00326 said:
You still havent said wether or not youve done a boost leak test. probly a leak up near throttle body

Dont have anyway to do one. I have thought checked every connection on my FMIC, BOV, and TB

ProZach89 · Oct 12, 2013

ok, here is a update. I put the car is completely back to stock. Stock injectors, maf and stock chip, etc. new gaskets on the TB and new seals all around and new sensors including O2. no change. still running rich. 10 A/R at idle and dumping too much fuel. Can see it coming out of the exhaust.

Rock2610d · Oct 12, 2013

What size fuel pump do you have? Is there a FPR on the vehicle? What is your fuel pressure?

ProZach89 · Oct 12, 2013

Rock2610d said:
What size fuel pump do you have? Is there a FPR on the vehicle? What is your fuel pressure?

Stock pump " untouched", stock FPR and it is tested good.

koafallenangel · Oct 12, 2013

Sounds like it might be getting too much fuel. If you have DSM link you can reduce the injector fuel output to try and balance out your air fuel ratio.

ProZach89 · Oct 12, 2013

koafallenangel said:
Sounds like it might be getting too much fuel. If you have DSM link you can reduce the injector fuel output to try and balance out your air fuel ratio.

The car is Stock. No link or anything, stock eprom ecu with a stock chip. engine is stock, fuel system is stock, fmic and exhaust is it. There is no reason the car should be running rich, especially when i replaced all my sensors and gaskets.

TSicktalon · Oct 12, 2013

Bacon
Lettuce
Tomato

$5 in parts and a trip to the gas station and you can do a BLT.

92AWDHX40 · Oct 12, 2013

Rent or buy a compressor so you can do boost leak test If you haven't.

ProZach89 · Oct 14, 2013

took the car over to a friend of a friend that had a boost leak tester.. they hooked it up and found no leaks so they told me. They took my bumper off and checked everywhere.

eclipsyco · Oct 14, 2013

ProZach89 said:
The car is Stock. No link or anything, stock eprom ecu with a stock chip. engine is stock, fuel system is stock, fmic and exhaust is it. There is no reason the car should be running rich, especially when i replaced all my sensors and gaskets.

Right there is your problem, how do you tune for the 750cc injectors?
Please do yourself favor buy some 450cc (stock size) put them on and call it a day.

c2ypt1c · Oct 14, 2013

eclipsyco said:
Right there is your problem, how do you tune for the 750cc injectors?
Please do yourself favor buy some 450cc (stock size) put them on and call it a day.

Looks like you missed the update:

ProZach89 said:
ok, here is a update. I put the car is completely back to stock. Stock injectors, maf and stock chip, etc.

And for all the guys screeming blt: although boost leak testing is pretty much always a good idea, it doesn't really help in this case because under vacuum at idle, more (unmetered) air would be drawn into the system causing a lean condition. Conversely, during boost, metered air is lost which the ecu thinks is still present, resulting in more fuel than is actually needed, causing a rich condition.

OP, I'm thinking there is a problem with your o2 sensor...is the check engine light on?

eclipsyco · Oct 14, 2013

c2ypt1c said:
Looks like you missed the update:

And for all the guys screeming blt: although boost leak testing is pretty much always a good idea, it doesn't really help in this case because under vacuum at idle, more (unmetered) air would be drawn into the system causing a lean condition. Conversely, during boost, metered air is lost which the ecu thinks is still present, resulting in more fuel than is actually needed, causing a rich condition.

OP, I'm thinking there is a problem with your o2 sensor...is the check engine light on?

Holly crap I'm sorry I really must have missed LOL

not to make excuses but it was really late I was kinda tired ok sorry again.

ProZach89 · Oct 14, 2013

c2ypt1c said:
Looks like you missed the update:

And for all the guys screeming blt: although boost leak testing is pretty much always a good idea, it doesn't really help in this case because under vacuum at idle, more (unmetered) air would be drawn into the system causing a lean condition. Conversely, during boost, metered air is lost which the ecu thinks is still present, resulting in more fuel than is actually needed, causing a rich condition.

OP, I'm thinking there is a problem with your o2 sensor...is the check engine light on?

brand new O2 sensor no CEL's

c2ypt1c · Oct 14, 2013

ProZach89 said:
brand new O2 sensor no CEL's

Check the vac line to the fpr and solenoid...maybe it's torn allowing too much fuel pressure. Also check for any fluid inside the line.

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Running super rich! need help.

ProZach89

chris00326

ProZach89

chris00326

ProZach89

c2ypt1c

performance

ProZach89

thomcasey

ProZach89

chris00326

ProZach89

ProZach89

Rock2610d

ProZach89

koafallenangel

ProZach89

TSicktalon

92AWDHX40

ProZach89

eclipsyco

c2ypt1c

eclipsyco

ProZach89

c2ypt1c

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