DSM IN MN
Supporting VIP
- 705
- 23
- May 17, 2009
-
Wadena,
Minnesota
My car (1999 GS-T) has had a problem with running lean every since I got it. It does not run lean all the time however.
Up until a few months ago, when the car started to run lean; you were screwed. The only way to get the car to stop running lean was to remove the negative terminal from the battery for about an hour. The only things that seemed to cause the car to run lean was; driving at WOT to say, getting onto the highway "quickly", , or while driving on the highway at a constant speed for more than 20 miles (70MPH for example).
When the car would throw a CEL, it would be something to do with fuel bank 1. Then every now and again it would say insufficient coolant temperature. So I replaced the coolant temperature sensor. That seemed to do the trick.
Then one day it started running lean again, or at least that is what my narrow-band gauge showed. I fixed it though by giving the car 25% throttle from 65MPH to 70MPH then letting off of the gas pedal completely until the car got down to 55MPH. From there the car would run normal.
Today the same thing happened as I was on a 3 hour trip (one way). The first time letting my car coast worked, then it started running lean after going from around 70MPH to 80+MPH. After that it was nothing but lean.
When I got to my destination, I removed my negative terminal. After I put the negative back on, the car ran fine until the same thing happened.
After driving over 100 miles with no check engine light, I do not know where to look to see what is wrong. The only modifications to my car are a SRS Ebay "cat back" exhaust w/the cat deleted, a cone air filter, an Injen intake, hard SMIC piping and a Greddy Type-S BOV. Yes, the BOV is recirculated so that is not the cause.
I would really rather NOT start throwing parts at the car considering I'd probably end up spending more than I need to. Any insight or help would be GREATLY appreciated. Thank you in advance!
Up until a few months ago, when the car started to run lean; you were screwed. The only way to get the car to stop running lean was to remove the negative terminal from the battery for about an hour. The only things that seemed to cause the car to run lean was; driving at WOT to say, getting onto the highway "quickly", , or while driving on the highway at a constant speed for more than 20 miles (70MPH for example).
When the car would throw a CEL, it would be something to do with fuel bank 1. Then every now and again it would say insufficient coolant temperature. So I replaced the coolant temperature sensor. That seemed to do the trick.
Then one day it started running lean again, or at least that is what my narrow-band gauge showed. I fixed it though by giving the car 25% throttle from 65MPH to 70MPH then letting off of the gas pedal completely until the car got down to 55MPH. From there the car would run normal.
Today the same thing happened as I was on a 3 hour trip (one way). The first time letting my car coast worked, then it started running lean after going from around 70MPH to 80+MPH. After that it was nothing but lean.
When I got to my destination, I removed my negative terminal. After I put the negative back on, the car ran fine until the same thing happened.
After driving over 100 miles with no check engine light, I do not know where to look to see what is wrong. The only modifications to my car are a SRS Ebay "cat back" exhaust w/the cat deleted, a cone air filter, an Injen intake, hard SMIC piping and a Greddy Type-S BOV. Yes, the BOV is recirculated so that is not the cause.
I would really rather NOT start throwing parts at the car considering I'd probably end up spending more than I need to. Any insight or help would be GREATLY appreciated. Thank you in advance!