rod knock. 330 miles

[josh1095]

i feel like im going to vomit...... hired a shop to build my engine. cost 2700 for everything. has had 3 oil changes, not beat on hard at all. stock boost level. and now this......
i just gotta hope this guy warranties his work. theres no way to prove anything. but being a 31yr old guy whos pretty mature im hoping he will take my word.
the sound is almost surely rod knock but cant be positive cause i dont have a stethescope. doesnt happen when idling at 1000rpm, yet. happens during quick rev or a high idle at about 2k and up. i dont think it could be anything else. ive got over 7grand in eveerything, just bought link and a ton of other shit. my day cant get any worse. sorry to bi***. if the guy doesnt warranty it i will tell the name of the shop for all the people around my area so no one else falls into this guys work like i did.

btw oil pressure is good. that doesnt mean much though

 

[95AWD6Bolt]

UPDATE: talked to the owner and they will warranty the work. i have to pull the engine of course but he'll do all the work for free. im still fn bummed but atleast im not out 2790 bucks for nothing. maybe the second time around he'll get it right. guy builds race engines, wtf?? how could he mess up a simple 4g63?

Sorry to say but everyone makes mistakes. At least he is covering it under the warranty.

 

[josh1095]

true, everyone makes mistakes. the guy is a really nice person too, i couldnt get angry with him. hope he has better luck this time. im thinking of having him install a BSE kit. think thats a good idea?

 

[crash89]

If you do eliminate the BS you have to port out a hole in the oil pump. Check out some threads on BSE kits and you will see which one.

 

[95talongirl]

That's true, everyone makes mistakes from time to time..... but it also could have been a faulty new part, as well.

He's covering it, which is a good thing.

 

[T is for TURBO]

I say, if you have to, build it yourself. Granted you likely don't have the ability to machine the block if needed, so that would have to be outsourced. However, assembling a short block yourself doesn't require anything to terribly expensive. If you're not an idiot, can do some basic math, are meticulous, and are clean, clean, clean, I don't see any reason why someone like yourself, with good mechanical abilities, couldn't properly assembly a short block. It's certainly not rocket science. I can't wait until I get my car finished so I can start building a back up strocker

Good luck with the warranty! Hopefully you won't have too much bad luck.

Edit: A little late on my reply,

 

[SupremeDsm]

UPDATE: talked to the owner and they will warranty the work. i have to pull the engine of course but he'll do all the work for free. im still fn bummed but atleast im not out 2790 bucks for nothing. maybe the second time around he'll get it right. guy builds race engines, wtf?? how could he mess up a simple 4g63?

You really should not bash the engine builder because how do you know it's not part failure?

 

[ThunderChild]

Ignorant? It's ignorant to just assume you know what you're doing.

I'm glad you've never had an engine fail, you obviously know what your doing. Your average car enthusiast, wrencher/ tuner,doesn't have the skills or tools to assemble a motor, that's not ignorance that's a fact.

Why take a chance when thousands of dollars is at stake? If you know how then fantastic more power to you, but those that don't shouldn't attempt it before educating themselves and going through trial and error. When you're building a motor for power you can't make noob mistakes.

I wonder how many people built their 4G63 properly the first time around and had it last? Not many I bet, at least from what I've seen.

What I was getting at is if we tell people not to do anything themselves, well be buying cookie cutter stuff instead of being innovative and coming up with new ideas.

when I started, I knew NOTHING about motors other than they made cars go, and had basic hand tools and an old torsion tq wrench. I taught myself everything, and I'm by no means that smart. If he wanted to, it would be a good experience, and on top of that, doesn't have to take someone's word that its "right". If anything goes wrong, he can track it himself and may not end up having to remove a motor.

It's good the motors being warrantied, should make sire its working right, then do the research to build ## own.

Good luck with it, hope ## up n running soon.

 

[FLASH1970]

Glad to hear he will cover the rebuild.

I know it was earlier asked if the rods will be ok... it all depends. Only measuring them will tell if they can be reused.

 

[josh1095]

talked to him again and he asked if heavier oil would help . i said yes it might but we both know itll only delay the inevitable for another 100 miles. he agreed. just for the hell of it i got some 15-40. soon as it warmed up the knock was there when i revved it. ill have my car back together at the end of may i think... thanks for the support and advice. this is a tough pill to swallow. hurts to see something you really love break because of something out of your control. i would understand if i beat it up but i take real good care of my stuff. ill post a new thread in a few months or whenever he gets done with it....

lil more info, after 330 miles i must have broke it in good. EXACTLY 180psi on all 4 cylinders. why oh why did he do such perfection in the upper half of the engine and mic the crank wrong or whatever is causing the rod/main knock

 

[JusMX141]

Make sure he doesn't half-ass it. Crank will need cut or replaced, entire engine needs flushed, turbo will need rebuilt. Anything that was supplied with oil now may potentially fail as a result of laziness when it comes to checking bearing tolerances.

 

[josh1095]

well he says hes flushing entire system. no question. the turbo? well, since everytings going to be removed im gonna go ahead and do the final 3 upgrades before i reinstall: new turbo(or rebuilt), 3"exhaust, and vrsf fmic. thats it, im ready for 350whp after that. i have everything else installed and running well. well, im putting in new leather and carpet but thats aesthetics, performance wise, ill be convered.

 

[Sebba]

Don't run it with rod knock, you don't want to destroy the turbo.

 

[ThunderChild]

I say, if you have to, build it yourself. Granted you likely don't have the ability to machine the block if needed, so that would have to be outsourced. However, assembling a short block yourself doesn't require anything to terribly expensive. If you're not an idiot, can do some basic math, are meticulous, and are clean, clean, clean, I don't see any reason why someone like yourself, with good mechanical abilities, couldn't properly assembly a short block. It's certainly not rocket science. I can't wait until I get my car finished so I can start building a back up strocker

Good luck with the warranty! Hopefully you won't have too much bad luck.

Edit: A little late on my reply,

well put.

 

[josh1095]

oh no, absolutely not. what i mean is while hes rebuilding it, im going to mount the brand new 16g and do all the exh mani porting and such while i have the chance. no way id drive it at all right now, new or old turbo. i dont want to damage a rod or any other component in the engine.. theyre kinda pricey
i did drain and check oil today. it had 80 miles the oil. nothing special at all. no severe metal shavings or chunks or anything weird. im 100% convinced theres a rod knock though. guess im sidelined for awhile. maybe i can actually help other people in the mean time , instead of asking questions. i have learned a bit since owning this car.

 

[JusMX141]

^ Even if the oil appears clean, you'd be surprised what gets sent to the turbo. Figure all of that missing bearing material got scooped up by the oil pump, sent to the oil filter where it likely clogs the filter in a hurry and kicks the bypass. From there, dirty oil circulates the entire lubrication system.

For god's sake, flush the oil cooler if you have one. You may even want to throw it away and get another one- those damn things are about impossible to get all of the metal out of.

 

[Sebba]

+1 on replacing the oil cooler and oil pump.

 

[josh1095]

the easiest way to tell if its rod knock is pull a plug wire off while running if it goes away thats where your bad bearing is. works great

i did just that today. looking at engine from front(exhaust facing me) i call that cylinder 1. the one furthest to the left (pass. side). i used a mechanics steth and probed around while idling at 2k and heard it on cylinder one the best. i pulled the wire when it was running and it stopped. my afrs are good and during a quick pull 5lbs of boost my knockret in link went to NINE degrees!!! its picking up rod knock for sure. theres no detonation, that sounds like rocks in a can.
im soooo not looking forward to pulling this eengine again. but im gonna go ahead and throw in the 16g turbo, fmic, 272 cams, and 3" exhaust while its out. might as well. wtf, at this rate to run this engine 100000 miles will cost me 300000 dollars if the machinist makes another mistake! , i dont think he will. maybe he got a bad bearing from factory or some debri got in it. it was hot tanked tho so thats unlikely.

 

[strokin4dr]

That is in fact the number 4 cylinder. I would not run the motor again, even for diagnoses until the pan is dropped and the bearings and oil are checked. You could be damaging the parts that you are hoping to reuse by doing this.

 

[Spoolin4Ever]

I'd stick with the old turbo on the next rebuild until after you test it. Because if the engine goes bad you could be putting shavings into the new turbo.

What you can do though is order a 14b/16g rebuild kit for $50 and rebuild it yourself, it's ez. Just need some good snap ring pliers.

 

[evileagleawd]

This why I build and tune my own engines. If there is any one to blame it can only be my self. Good luck with the rebuild! Ask the shop that did the rebuild very important questions like clearances and torque specs they are using. Hate to see this happen again!

 

[ShadyGST]

You can also sue him if he doesnt get it right the 2nd time.

Its $35 to file in small claims court, any judge will side with you.