rod knock. 330 miles

[josh1095]

i feel like im going to vomit...... hired a shop to build my engine. cost 2700 for everything. has had 3 oil changes, not beat on hard at all. stock boost level. and now this......
i just gotta hope this guy warranties his work. theres no way to prove anything. but being a 31yr old guy whos pretty mature im hoping he will take my word.
the sound is almost surely rod knock but cant be positive cause i dont have a stethescope. doesnt happen when idling at 1000rpm, yet. happens during quick rev or a high idle at about 2k and up. i dont think it could be anything else. ive got over 7grand in eveerything, just bought link and a ton of other shit. my day cant get any worse. sorry to bi***. if the guy doesnt warranty it i will tell the name of the shop for all the people around my area so no one else falls into this guys work like i did.

btw oil pressure is good. that doesnt mean much though

 

[wranglerunner22]

What oil are you running just curious?

 

[josh1095]

5/30 first 50 miles then 10-30 next 250. 10-30 til now. quake state dino juice

 

[jrs187]

the easiest way to tell if its rod knock is pull a plug wire off while running if it goes away thats where your bad bearing is. works great

 

[dsm4life91tsi]

i had a similar problem with mine after my build thought it was a bearing, the sound would fade in and out on certain rpms, came to find out it was the oil pump blow just am idea for ya

 

[josh1095]

well at idle my shitty glowshift() pressure guage reads like 2lbs when its hot, when cold its near 80lbs! after letting it cool for 45 minutes i started it again, it said 20lbs and was not knocking. EVERYTHING is brand new internally. he just cut the cran k wrong or didnt get the right size bearings. #### im in shock right now . i cant even believe how many hours ive spent working on this car and lately all the tuning with link. god i hope hes an honorable man. even so, i have a 2 week business trip so i wont be doing much dsm'ing for quite some time.
if he doesnt, its going to be hard to justify spending 3k more on an engine.

 

[josh408]

Why not just build it yourself? It would be a good learning process. Just read the forums for questions.

 

[josh1095]

josh, im thinking of doing just that. but damn, wouldnt you want it fixed too if you paid that much? i guess if he doesnt warranty it ill prob do it myself. brand new eagle rods and mahle pistons, those are prob ok after 330 miles wouldnt u think? and the water pump, oil pump and head gotta be good.

btw, my stock oil guage read really low on hot idle too. like around less than 1/8th meter. the glowshit may be somewhat accurate. its been like that since the first mile. once hot that oil pressure was way low. i thought it was normal for these cars but i guess theres not much i could have done. aside from bring it back to the guy immediately. but its only been in the car for 6 weeks and i have plenty of records to corroborate that.

dsm4life, i didnt understand: u mean ## oil pump was blown? or the "oil pump blow"? im confused

 

[crash89]

Pull your oil pan off and check. Only way to be entirely sure.

 

[jimbob_843]

Its possible he installed the rods incorrectly. As in tang side facing intake and not exhaust like its supposed to. That or the rod caps were installed with tangs opposite from each other. Hope he warranties his work!!!!

 

[josh1095]

should i find bronze shavings in the oil pan? and if im running 10-30 when its fully hot, even on a stock guage it should not read that low correct?

 

[2GJeremy]

Bronze shavings in your oil pan....
That means something expensive. Don't drive anywhere else besides back to the shop, actually, if you can, get it towed.

Usually means your bearings or something that has to do with lubrication in the block. Seriously, I wouldn't run that engine more than you have to. I pray for you that your mechanic has a warranty on that engine.

By the way, that is usually caused by lack of oil getting to the engine. Just so you know.

 

[bcjjones]

Good luck man. I feel for you

 

[josh408]

josh, im thinking of doing just that. but damn, wouldnt you want it fixed too if you paid that much? i guess if he doesnt warranty it ill prob do it myself. brand new eagle rods and mahle pistons, those are prob ok after 330 miles wouldnt u think? and the water pump, oil pump and head gotta be good.

btw, my stock oil guage read really low on hot idle too. like around less than 1/8th meter. the glowshit may be somewhat accurate. its been like that since the first mile. once hot that oil pressure was way low. i thought it was normal for these cars but i guess theres not much i could have done. aside from bring it back to the guy immediately. but its only been in the car for 6 weeks and i have plenty of records to corroborate that.

dsm4life, i didnt understand: u mean ## oil pump was blown? or the "oil pump blow"? im confused

Yea I understand. But if you put brand new parts in a motor is be pretty scared to trust a shop with it. But your already in it so I guess they better warranty it. If they don't would you have receipts of anything that they did? Maybe you can sue them for some money back.

 

[2GJeremy]

At the end of the day it comes down to the warranty.

 

[WES_393]

well at idle my shitty glowshift() pressure guage reads like 2lbs when its hot

2lbs of pressure is very low. Low oil pressure could have caused the bearings to fail. Whatever route you take, make sure the low oil pressure issue is taken care of or it will just happen again.

 

[2GJeremy]

Oh crap, good point Wes. I didn't even read that part.

 

[talon1990TSi]

2lbs of pressure is very low. Low oil pressure could have caused the bearings to fail. Whatever route you take, make sure the low oil pressure issue is taken care of or it will just happen again.

I second that. my buddy just rebuilt his galant vr4 and got a bad oil pump. What make is the oil pump you have on it. I would get a OEM one next time.

 

[Sebba]

2lbs of pressure is very low. Low oil pressure could have caused the bearings to fail. Whatever route you take, make sure the low oil pressure issue is taken care of or it will just happen again.

No kidding, that's because there's a bearing missing.

Don't try and build the engine yourself. A professional built this one and how long did it last? Unless you're a professional engine builder and also have a machine shop (which I guess is possible). Otherwise, don't waste your time and money.

 

[ThunderChild]

No kidding, that's because there's a bearing missing.

Don't try and build the engine yourself. A professional built this one and how long did it last? Unless you're a professional engine builder and also have a machine shop (which I guess is possible). Otherwise, don't waste your time and money.

Kind of ignorant if u ask me. Why not build his own motor? That's exactly how I learned to do everything I do on cars. Almost 10 years ago I built my first engine, a SBC. I learned by reading, researching and asking tons of questions. After it was all said and done, I had almost 400 hp at the wheels in my 84 z28. Since then, I've built almost a dozen motors, including my 7m, my freinds 420a, 2 BBC's, a vg30de, and currently an FT BBF, another 7m and my G4CS for my talon. I did all of that, sans-education. I just started auto tech in college this year, and I am a great deal ahead of my classmates as far as undertanding and knowledge base.

Telling someone not too build their own motor because they aren't a professional is BS. where would we all be today if we didn't take the reins at some point? This is one reason why our hobby is in jeopardy, ### no one will take chances or try something new.

If u are careful, u read and research and ask questions, then u shouldn't have to worry about the workmanship.

Keep in mind too, that most shops operate by volume. The more they can get done quicker the more money they make.

And btw, not one of the motors I have built, has failed to this day. The motor my dad bought from our large motor shop, went belly up in the first 1k miles. They replaced it and it died after 1200. After that they refused to replace it because we "were not maintaining it"...we followed their care protocol to the letter, and I provided receipts for materials as proof. needless to say, we got our money back and never looked back. After that I built the motor myself, and he has over 10k trouble free miles currently.

I say shame on u for discouraging him from taking a chance to learn something new. If he so chooses, I think building his own motor would be an excellent endeavor. It's late, I'm cranky. Niht all, Cheers.

 

[Sebba]

Kind of ignorant if u ask me. Why not build his own motor? That's exactly how I learned to do everything I do on cars. Almost 10 years ago I built my first engine, a SBC. I learned by reading, researching and asking tons of questions. After it was all said and done, I had almost 400 hp at the wheels in my 84 z28. Since then, I've built almost a dozen motors, including my 7m, my freinds 420a, 2 BBC's, a vg30de, and currently an FT BBF, another 7m and my G4CS for my talon. I did all of that, sans-education. I just started auto tech in college this year, and I am a great deal ahead of my classmates as far as undertanding and knowledge base.

Telling someone not too build their own motor because they aren't a professional is BS. where would we all be today if we didn't take the reins at some point? This is one reason why our hobby is in jeopardy, ### no one will take chances or try something new.

If u are careful, u read and research and ask questions, then u shouldn't have to worry about the workmanship.

Keep in mind too, that most shops operate by volume. The more they can get done quicker the more money they make.

And btw, not one of the motors I have built, has failed to this day. The motor my dad bought from our large motor shop, went belly up in the first 1k miles. They replaced it and it died after 1200. After that they refused to replace it because we "were not maintaining it"...we followed their care protocol to the letter, and I provided receipts for materials as proof. needless to say, we got our money back and never looked back. After that I built the motor myself, and he has over 10k trouble free miles currently.

I say shame on u for discouraging him from taking a chance to learn something new. If he so chooses, I think building his own motor would be an excellent endeavor. It's late, I'm cranky. Niht all, Cheers.

Ignorant? It's ignorant to just assume you know what you're doing.

I'm glad you've never had an engine fail, you obviously know what your doing. Your average car enthusiast, wrencher/ tuner,doesn't have the skills or tools to assemble a motor, that's not ignorance that's a fact.

Why take a chance when thousands of dollars is at stake? If you know how then fantastic more power to you, but those that don't shouldn't attempt it before educating themselves and going through trial and error. When you're building a motor for power you can't make noob mistakes.

I wonder how many people built their 4G63 properly the first time around and had it last? Not many I bet, at least from what I've seen.

 

[daplatano91]

By any chance were the balance shafts or oil squirters deleted? I'd wonder if he turned the bearings or installed block offs for the oil ports.

 

[josh1095]

oil pump is brand new oem. BS were not eliminated.
my dad, when he was building his 5.0 mustang a long time ago, used this guy to install the valves and shave the heads down. he did great work. but everyone makes mistakes i guess. i have all the paperwork and ways to corroborate the mileage if need be. i hope to hear from him this morning.
the more i think about it the less intitmidating it is to build it myself if he fails to honor a warranty. i AM a clinical engineer. so im used to figuring things out, atleast electronically/mechanically, all the time. everyday i go to work i see something i havent seen before. so with such a large knowledge base here at the forums, i should be able to build a goddamn block that lasts more than 330 miles!

edit: oil squirters: i have no idea if he removed them...

 

[SupremeDsm]

oil pump is brand new oem. BS were not eliminated.
my dad, when he was building his 5.0 mustang a long time ago, used this guy to install the valves and shave the heads down. he did great work. but everyone makes mistakes i guess. i have all the paperwork and ways to corroborate the mileage if need be. i hope to hear from him this morning.
the more i think about it the less intitmidating it is to build it myself if he fails to honor a warranty. i AM a clinical engineer. so im used to figuring things out, atleast electronically/mechanically, all the time. everyday i go to work i see something i havent seen before. so with such a large knowledge base here at the forums, i should be able to build a goddamn block that lasts more than 330 miles!

edit: oil squirters: i have no idea if he removed them...

If your going to build it yourself make sure you get yourself a nice torque wrench. Craftsman makes a nice one for $90! Also make sure when putting it together you use lots of lubricant. I personally use Lucas Heavy Duty Oil Stabilizer. I know SIM uses that as well when doing assembly.

 

[josh1095]

UPDATE: talked to the owner and they will warranty the work. i have to pull the engine of course but he'll do all the work for free. im still fn bummed but atleast im not out 2790 bucks for nothing. maybe the second time around he'll get it right. guy builds race engines, wtf?? how could he mess up a simple 4g63?