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[RESOLVED] pacesetter turbo manifold any good? (No.) [Merged 5-8]

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tsiawdspeed

20+ Year Contributor
39
0
Mar 29, 2002
Savage/Winona, Minnesota
I was looking in a magazine and they said that Pacesetter made a header for the turbo. Does anyone know about the quality or performance of the header?
 
you get what you pay for. I have had a pasesetter header in here a few times and each time I think they look worse and worse. The collectors are horible. the welds are extremely shotty and I cant imagine HOW they would flow better then a good 2G ported. I made 600 whp on a 2G ported manifold. again the saying "you get what you pay for" has never rang more then true when applied to this industry.

Eric
 
I know someone who ran a pacesetter manifold and after having to re-weld it 4 times he junked it.As AMS the collector is horrible.
 
I have the stock 2G exhaust manifold and I removed the lip so it's very slightly ported.
I also have a ported B28 turbo. Do you think there would be a decent gain in going to the SBR exhaust manifold?

My definition of decent would be like 10 HP.
 
is the sbr manifold crack resistant like the 2g??? and does it bolt right up to a 1g??? would you all say that the ported sbr mani would be more of a power gain then the dn performance tubular mani???



ryan
 
sorry to revive this post but...

i just bought some pacesetters from mach1dsm on the front page, i didn't research, i figured if it was on the front it was good... now im kinda screwed outta 140 dollars.
What exacty do i need to avert a catastrophe with my headers?

turbo to mani gasket
head to mani gasket

anything else?
and can anyone give me some places to go to find good gaskets for pretty cheap?
thanx :dsm:
 
SoCalGST said:
sorry to revive this post but...

i just bought some pacesetters from mach1dsm on the front page, i didn't research, i figured if it was on the front it was good... now im kinda screwed outta 140 dollars.
What exacty do i need to avert a catastrophe with my headers?

turbo to mani gasket
head to mani gasket

anything else?
and can anyone give me some places to go to find good gaskets for pretty cheap?
thanx :dsm:
I would recommend re-doing all the welds. Then, if you can afford it, I would have it ceramic coated. Get your gaskets here. It also wouldnt be a bad idea to install a set of stainless steel manifold studs while you have the manifold off. :thumb:
 
I have had a pacesetter header for about a year now with no problems. I knew right away that the black paint that comes on it would burn off, cuz there was a sticker that said so in plain english. The black paint is rust prevention and nothing more. I stripped it with aircraft stripper, scuffed it with 600 grit sandpaper, and then repainted it with High heat paint, making sure to properly bake the paint on in a 500 degree oven for several hours. Again that was only for rust prevention, cuz I know from previous experience that the hellfire that comes blasting out of the head at 15 psi is alot hotter than 1200 degrees. That is why I wrapped the runners with header wrap. The performance over stock was amazing. Oh yeah... throw that shitty ass gasket they provide in the trash. :thumb:
 

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thanks for the info, now slowboy racing has some head to manifold gaskets, im planning on getting the 2 layer one for 18.00. where can i get the other gasket i need? or can i just use my stock gasket thats already on there?

also, im planning on getting all the welds reinforced, but is it necessary to repaint it with high heat paint? or can i just reinforce the welds and be done.
 
if you do not get the pacesetter manifold machined were it meets the head the gaskets that mistubishi sell or sbr will leak on a pacesetter. they have these new gaskets that are way to big for the hole.
 
well if that gasket is going to leak then what should i get? and does anyone have any answers to my above questions?
 
SoCalGST said:
where can i get the other gasket i need?
The other gasket (turbo to manifold gasket) was also in that link that I sent you above. click here

SoCalGST said:
also, im planning on getting all the welds reinforced, but is it necessary to repaint it with high heat paint? or can i just reinforce the welds and be done.
I wouldnt say it's necessary.... With the stock manifold, you had a nifty heatshield to keep the some of the exhaust's heat from radiating throughout the engine bay. Now, with this header, you have no heat shield, so that's why I said if you can afford the ceramic or high-temp coating, then do it. Without it, your engine bay is going to be a little hotter than normal.
 
99gst_racer said:
Now, with this header, you have no heat shield, so that's why I said if you can afford the ceramic or high-temp coating, then do it. Without it, your engine bay is going to be a little hotter than normal.



Unless you wrap it like I did... Hell you can work in the engine bay with the car hot, and "accidently" bump into or bruch up against the hedder with it wrapped with your elobow or forearm with out so much as recieving 1st degree burns. Unwrapped however, you can literally cook stuff on your hood.
 
SoCalGST said:
also, im planning on getting all the welds reinforced, but is it necessary to repaint it with high heat paint? or can i just reinforce the welds and be done.

If you are not buying the coated version that pacesetter sells and you are not going to have it jet hot coated or something similar, I would at least paint the collector where it bolts to the turbo, and where it bolts to the head, because it cant be wrapped there , and since it is fabed from carbon steel it will rust if not painted.
 
papifry said:
Unless you wrap it like I did... Hell you can work in the engine bay with the car hot, and "accidently" bump into or bruch up against the hedder with it wrapped with your elobow or forearm with out so much as recieving 1st degree burns. Unwrapped however, you can literally cook stuff on your hood.
Have you ever considered spraying your header wrap with silicon to waterproof it? The biggest downside I see to header wrap is if moisture works it's way in there, it will eventually rust and rott away at the header. For all of my customers I sell the wrap to, I also sell the spray. It really does help.
 
blcknspo0ln said:
where the heck did you find that info? or at least info that would lead you to say that?

I was wondering the same thing. I would think on a 300hp car a ported sbr manifold would give you 0.56 more hp.

Honestly fellas, do you plan on running faster than mid 10 second quarter miles? If not then save your money, swallow your "bling pride" and run a ported 2g manifold. Isn't everybody always bitching about running parts that are "tried and proven?" Well a ported 2g manifold has been tried and proven over and over and over.... :rolleyes:

Cheers

Dustin :talon:
 
agreed. although I don't think the SBR cast is much of a bling over the 2g.. they're both ugly ROFL

but i can understand that when going with a pacesetter tubular manifold. it's ALL about bling, if not .. the people buying these manifolds would shell out the real cash for a quality manifold like DNP's. that's all i'm going to say about this though, I dont really feel like debating with the guys that like pacesetter.
 
STAY AWAY FROM PACESETTER! if you want one ill send you the one i took off and you can reweld it again, for the third time. i put a ported evo mani on. no problems since. and the performance is about the same.
 
I have a 1992 non-turbo eagle talon, and im just beginning to do some modification. One of which is Putting a pacesetter Exhaust system. I know many of you will say it s POS and i know that, im only really using it for the piping, n for 160 i say it s still a bargain.

Problem is the pipe keeps vibrating where it curves in the back axel, and i have no i dea how to fix it. If any of you have Pacesetter out there with similar problem, please let me know how you guys handled this annoying problem. The dang vibration is killing me!! :cry: :cry:
 
is it hanging too close to the body/axle? you may need to adjust some brackets/hangers or if there is none in the area, might be a smart idea to put a hanger in there somewhere.

I dont have that exhaust so cant say for sure what to do to fix it, im just speaking from other exhaust system rattling problems.
 
It is not htat the pipe ratters really, its that the pipe is bigger than the stock, both pipes did rattle there, there is insufficient holding power in the hangers to hold that sucker so it doesn't rattle and rattle against this little flange/support/brace on the car. Mine it does it usually until it gets warm,t han sometimes it still does depending, it won't do it all the time. My best fix to say for this is that you take a universal exhaust hanger from pepboys and put it on right there where it rattles and connect the pipe itself to the frame to keep it holding steady... Thats what I plan on doing atleast.
 
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