[RESOLVED] Full rebuild dilema

[malucifer]

Well heres the story I tore the engine to rebuild it, got myself some wiseco 9.0:1's(6 bolt 1gen) and eagle rods. Put everything back together and after charging the battery for a bit tried cranking it over, it "sounds" like its cranking really fast although the lights go dead momentarily when I start to crank it (obviously from the non fully charged battery) once in every 6-15 rotations the car will through a quick backfire and sometimes a whistle out of my dump tube. Any ideas or should I wait for a fully charged battery before thinking im screwed? I did this build in the snow in my driveway so im hoping its not all in vain. Also can anyone tell me what bolts are used for the oil return line end that goes to the oil pan I need to pick up 2 more of those and im not sure what type of bolt they are. Any help would be appreciated.

 

[malucifer]

Oh one more question, cant I just leave the damn balance shaft belt off entirely and just leave the balance shafts in there? Or being that the rear is tied into the oil pump would it #### things up?

 

[mobythevan]

If you don't want to use the starter to break it loose then what I did was build a bar out of angle iron that bolts to the pulley using two of the bolt holes and catches under the car to hold it still.

 

[95tzlgst]

Now that you mention I think the gears do have two marks that is why is is important to make sure the dowels point up. If you have one up and one down when your marks align then this should be your biggest problem with no compression. Hopefully the valves didn't hit pistons in this configuration. If they didn't you should be able to re-time and fire up. I would remove the timing belt, roll the crank by hand so the pistons are away from the top, then remove the valve cover and time the cam gears correctly with no belt. At this point check all the rocker arms to see if any are loose. That is the easiest quick way to see if valves are bent badly. If all rockers are tight I would re-time it and see if it starts, then do a compression check.

This happen to me and it makes the car 180* out. It doesn't mess up any of your valves. My car was making the poof noise out the exhaust. I did a compression test and got low numbers if any each time I did it.

 

[770eclipse]

If you are pulling the wrench to the back of the car you are tightening it. You should turn it towards the front of the car.

 

[malucifer]

Lol so your telling me that pushing the wrench to the back of the car (rotating the crank pulley to the left) is tightening it? Son of a b*******

 

[770eclipse]

You said you leaked all 5 quarts out of your car onto the ground? The only way to do this is if there is a hole in your oil pan or your oil drain plug is loose.

 

[770eclipse]

last car I worked on was an evo and they are backwards I am wrong sorry. you can lightly tap the end with a hammer while you are turning it.

 

[malucifer]

Heh its ok =) And yeah the bolt on my oil return line is stripped as to the oil leaking out.

 

[malucifer]

Well all ITS ALIVE! All it was was the stupid ass timing 180 out. Warning to all never install camshafts without dowel pins facing 12 oclock! Lol thanks to everyone that helped out I have successfully built my motor all by myself in my driveway and im rather pleased =)

Cant thank you all enough!

 

[mobythevan]

Great News.

 

[Colt4G63 also]

YAY

 

[BoredDSM]

If the rings were never filed properly, be aware that if the ring ends will make contact once you get on it and it can and most likely will score the walls. Just be aware of that.

 

[Colt4G63 also]

If the rings were never filed properly, be aware that if the ring ends will make contact once you get on it and it can and most likely will score the walls. Just be aware of that.

That's what I told him in an earlier post. My engine instructor told me that he saw it SO bad once, that the rings siezed in the cylinder bore as soon as the engine warmed up. When it cooled down, it could be started again.

 

[malucifer]

So far all is doing well compression is at 160 on all cylinders but 1 and that is 159 =) The only issue im having right now is, as soon as it starts the rpms hit 3k instantly and it idles for about 5 seconds there and then just shuts off. Any ideas or perhaps since the ecu has been unplugged for about 6 months it hasnt trained itself yet?

 

[tkelly27]

Did you do the ring gap? It's very unlikely you got lucky enough to have proper gap on all 16 rings. Unless you got total seal rings?

Sounds like you have a leak post throttle body, or you've gotten rid of some idle control system. I don't know why it would shut off randomly either. Definitely do a boost leak test.

 

[malucifer]

Well I can keep it running by making sure it doesnt drop below 3k with the throttle but come on 3k is a little much to idle around places And no I never did the rings, luck must have something to do with it

 

[malucifer]

Ahh it seems perhaps this is the issue? My idle switch (the plug right on top of the TB) is broken the rubber is off the metal connector that goes up the plug. You think this could be the issue of a 3k idle and then death?

 

[Grant]

Could very well be. That is the throttle stop sensor, just lets your ecu know that the throttle plate is completely closed, telling it to cut fuel and engage the idle control circuit. You could also have a malfunctioning idle speed controller, that, when not functioning, will cause the ecu to add fuel to match the volume of air it's reading from your maf, which is also unregulated, and can raise idle speeds. Another thought, is your biss, (bleed idle set screw) backed way out? That will also cause very high idle.

Hopefully this gives you some things to check, It's good to know that you have good compression, and a relatively healthy engine!

Just make sure you follow the break-in procedure and properly seat your rings. My brother did a rebuild a few months back, and broke it in reaally gently, now he's got blowby (only 2-3k miles on it) at only 14 psi of boost! He's been having trouble keeping his dipstick stuck in....

 

[malucifer]

Haha ouch =) Well I plan on doin alot of engine braking tomorrow, then some retorque oil changes all the good stuff

 

[Grant]

Definitely get your throttle stop wire hooked up, solder it if you have too! A relatively quick way to see if it's gonna help is to carve off some of the plastic on the end of the sensor and hook up a lead to see if it changes anything, purely a temporary solution, you might not even have to remove it from the throttle body!

 

[90rslaser]

backfire=way off timing. and if youre off timing, you can almost guarantee that youre valves are now bent.

 

[ilco187]

backfire will also mean backwards firing order ive had that a few times it scared me

 

[malucifer]

Cams were 180 out perfectly so it wasnt really off timing just not "on."

 

[Grant]

Any updates? did u wire up the sensor, check firing order, etc?

 

[BoredDSM]

Well I can keep it running by making sure it doesnt drop below 3k with the throttle but come on 3k is a little much to idle around places And no I never did the rings, luck must have something to do with it

Ticking time bomb is more like it. Rings will make contact once that engine warms up and the rings are allowed to expand. It is damn near impossible to buy rings from the factory and say that they were gapped perfectly because they specifically put extra material on there to allow you to grind it off and have enough TO grind off. Point is, you should REALLY reconsider it. I would hate to see your hard work go down the drain.