ECMlink [RESOLVED] 1995 Eagle Talon TSi doesn't build boost

[Justin DuBois]

Fix your coolant temp error - clear the DTCs under the DTC tab. update all and clear all to reset the ECU. If you have fixed your coolant temp sensor, then this error should not return.

Your fuel setup is currently for stock injectors (BTW) what are you running?

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[Brian O Conner]

NO - disable idle air clamp
The checkboxes I'm referring to are under the Misc tab "Ground timing connector to ECU"

Did i do this right?

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[Justin DuBois]

Did i do this right?

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Yes - now idle the engine and check the timing with a timing light on #1 cyl

 

[Brian O Conner]

Fix your coolant temp error - clear the DTCs under the DTC tab. update all and clear all to reset the ECU. If you have fixed your coolant temp sensor, then this error should not return.

Your fuel setup is currently for stock injectors (BTW) what are you running?

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550cc RC injectors now.

Yes - now idle the engine and check the timing with a timing light on #1 cyl

What should the timing degree set at? Anyways I thought these were coil pack cars and not distributor. That's crazy there's timing marks on the crankshaft. 420a didn't have that but I do own 3 distributor cars so I do know how to use timing lights but where do you set the ignition timing on these cars? I imagine on the laptop but bare with me.

Its a 5 speed manual car so I imagine I should un due the automatic transmission tab? FYI this was definitely not done by us looks like common sense here but just to make sure let me know Justin.

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[Justin DuBois]

550cc RC injectors now.

Ok, Stock 2G is 450cc, you will eventually put in a global fuel adjustment.

Its a 5 speed manual car so I imagine I should un due the automatic transmission tab? FYI this was definitely not done by us looks like common sense here but just to make sure let me know Justin.

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Yeah - you can uncheck any AT features - probably won't make any difference either way, but turning off a check for a feature that's not there seems like the right way to leave it.

What should the timing degree set at? Anyways I thought these were coil pack cars and not distributor. Thats crazy theres timing marks on the crankshaft. 420a didnt have that but I do own 3 distributor cars so I do know how to use timing lights but where do you set the ignition timing on these cars? I imagine on the laptop but bare with me.

With the checkbox enabled - you should see 5 deg BTC - in the live stream in ECM Link and on the crank with the timing light.

This is a "feature" of the 1G CAS. You have to calibrate it - and - you can lie - so you can run more or less base timing than the ECU sees. It has more variability in the accuracy due to timing belt stretch, and when you start pushing the limits - you really don't want to be plus or minus in the wrong direction at the wrong moment.

A 7-Bolt 2G Block has a fixed sensor on the oil pump to measure the crank position, and it is fixed - never lies.

You can put a fixed sensor on a 6-Bolt crank - if you are not running balance shafts. - THis is what I do.

 

[Brian O Conner]

So this car has been having a problem starting it. Like its not getting fuel during cranking. The last several times I had it started was because of starting fluid. Back in September this wasn't a problem. After it runs for 5 mins I can shut it off and start it back up without starting fluid. I have also checked the spark plugs after cranking it over for 30 seconds and they are dry. I don't know if its because of how cold it is here or what but anyways this wasn't a problem in September and I know for a fact its not the fuel pump (checked that plus its getting fuel pressure), put different injectors in it and it has a full tank of gas.

Is there a section on this tuning software to add more fuel during cranking? Like the speed density chart in the lower rpm 0-500 range and before the atmospheric pressure section of that chart by trying to fool the ECU it needs more fuel?

I have cranking this over with 40 amps of a battery charger on there where its cranking fast so I know that's not the problem (battery power). I tried starting it up last night to check ignition timing which I found where to test it.

FYI I did do a lot of research last night on how this tuning software works so I am a lot more knowledgeable than I was yesterday after watching a lot of videos and doing some reading.

 

[Justin DuBois]

So this car has been having a problem starting it. Like its not getting fuel during cranking. The last several times I had it started was because of starting fluid. Back in September this wasn't a problem. After it runs for 5 mins I can shut it off and start it back up without starting fluid. I have also checked the spark plugs after cranking it over for 30 seconds and they are dry. I don't know if its because of how cold it is here or what but anyways this wasn't a problem in September and I know for a fact its not the fuel pump (checked that plus its getting fuel pressure), put different injectors in it and it has a full tank of gas.

Is there a section on this tuning software to add more fuel during cranking? Like the speed density chart in the lower rpm 0-500 range and before the atmospheric pressure section of that chart by trying to fool the ECU it needs more fuel?

I have cranking this over with 40 amps of a battery charger on there where its cranking fast so I know that's not the problem (battery power). I tried starting it up last night to check ignition timing which I found where to test it.

FYI I did do a lot of research last night on how this tuning software works so I am a lot more knowledgeable than I was yesterday after watching a lot of videos and doing some reading.

If you don't have a working water temp sensor - it's going to be a PITA to start. To test if the coolant sensor is the issue, you can force it to ignore the coolant temp sensor temporarily in ECMLink under the ECU inputs tab - Lock the coolant temp sensor input, and see if the engine starts easier.

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You need a working coolant temp sensor.

 

[Brian O Conner]

I noticed you had a bunch of stuff locked. I am curious if I should change anything else in this.

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If you don't have a working water temp sensor - it's going to be a PITA to start. To test if the coolant sensor is the issue, you can force it to ignore the coolant temp sensor temporarily in ECM Link under the ECU inputs tab - Lock the coolant temp sensor input, and see if the engine starts easier.

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You need a working coolant temp sensor.

I just done that and it did not make a difference.

 

[19Eclipse90]

How to post a log

 

[Justin DuBois]

I noticed you had a bunch of stuff locked. I am curious if I should change anything else in this.

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I just done that and it did not make a difference.

I’m running SD and additional sensors, I lock the inputs to the factory code for sensors that have been replaced with after market sensors like MAP, WB, and IAT.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

How to post a ECMLink log. Try to post one for us to gander at.
Also, have you checked the turbo for side play and in/out play?

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[Justin DuBois]

I noticed you had a bunch of stuff locked. I am curious if I should change anything else in this.

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I just done that and it did not make a difference.

The ECU inputs tab shows you have a Wideband installed where the factory front O2 would normally go. Is this true? You need a narrow band signal, simulated or real in the front o2 channel. Closed loop fuel trims requires this.

 

[Brian O Conner]

How to post a ECMLink log. Try to post one for us to gander at.
Also, have you checked the turbo for side play and in/out play?

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Yes I did and its it top shape. It's new also but still checked for turbo shaft play.

Since your really big on the log thing. I am going to try to sign in on my buddys Windows XP Compag laptop from 2003. It still has internet. This laptop came with the car and still works great just needs a new battery but honestly at this point I already learned a ton from this post. There wont be a whole lot of log posts for awhile.

My main mission right now is the Alternator code and the CTS sensor problem right now. Car wasn't this much of a pain to start up in September (temperature may play a role here). I do remember my buddy saying he accidentally got a lot of oil on the alternator (don't know if that plays into this or not). Would be cool if these logs had dates on when those alarms occurred. Then I could pinpoint if this was done by us or on car when we bought it.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

ECMLink logs are dated if they are saved raw. Just FYI and thanks for your updates.

 

[steve]

Sadly the ECU doesn't have a clock so the date and time of the actual fault isn't saved.
At this point the best you can do is clear the faults and see if they trigger again. The CTS should be monitored (logged) from an attempt to cold start the car all the way to operating temp to see how it's behaving.

Without a narrowband O2 or the wideband simulation enabled in ECMLink the car won't enter closed loop.

 

[Justin DuBois]

My main mission right now is the Alternator code and the CTS sensor problem right now. Car wasn't this much of a pain to start up in September (temperature may play a role here). I do remember my buddy saying he accidentally got a lot of oil on the alternator (don't know if that plays into this or not). Would be cool if these logs had dates on when those alarms occurred. Then I could pinpoint if this was done by us or on car when we bought it.

It's easy to spill PS fluid working with the hoses right onto the alt. And then it totally kills the voltage regulator. You will want to pull the alt and have it fixed at a little shop, or replace from a parts store.

 

[Brian O Conner]

Ok major updates!

You need to address the coolant temp sensor first first first.
ECU will go to full rich limp mode without

For the O2 sensor question it is downstream or Number 2.

As for clearing the faults for the DTC part of ECMLink goes, it would not let me clear the 2 DTC codes.

As for the testing of the CTS system goes, Sensor is good. I took it off and did the ohms test with cold water, room temp water and hot water and the ohms fluctuated like they should and I did the test multiple times. So I do realize that is not the problem. Signal wire shows almost 5 volts with car off and sensor unplugged. The other wire shows a ground always (with sensor unplugged or plugged in). I am starting to think there's an issue with this ECU. I traced the wires and they look good at plug in area. There's an idiot light on in car for coolant and my OBD 2 scanner shows a constant 108 degrees Celsius on the data stream with sensor unplugged and plugged in as well. I don't know if there's more tests I can do at this point, guys it really seems like this is stemming from the ECU. If anybody has anymore ideas on tests for a CTS system let me know and I will do them.

Last question, once again I am a 420a guy, but is ECMLink a piggyback system for the 4g63T? Meaning its just a stock ECU that this system tunes from the OBD 2 scanner or is this a system where you have to rewire the ECU to make this system work or is this a standalone ECU?

The reason I ask is for replacement reasons if the ECU is indeed needing a rebuild or not obviously there's still tests until then but just getting ready for the worse.

 

[steve]

Ok major updates!

For the O2 sensor question it is downstream or Number 2.

From your picture in post #33 ECMLink is configured with the Wideband connected to the Front O2 sensor input to the ECU. If there is a Narrowband O2 still in the O2 housing of the turbo you would still use it as the front O2 and connect the WB to the rear O2 input.

As for clearing the faults for the DTC part of ECMLink goes, it would not let me clear the 2 DTC codes.

Good to know, assuming your clearing all the faults correctly it means they are still active issues.

As for the testing of the CTS system goes, Sensor is good. I took it off and did the ohms test with cold water, room temp water and hot water and the ohms fluctuated like they should and I did the test multiple times. So I do realize that is not the problem. Signal wire shows almost 5 volts with car off and sensor unplugged. The other wire shows a ground always (with sensor unplugged or plugged in). I am starting to think there's an issue with this ECU. I traced the wires and they look good at plug in area. There's an idiot light on in car for coolant and my OBD 2 scanner shows a constant 108 degrees Celsius on the data stream with sensor unplugged and plugged in as well. I don't know if there's more tests I can do at this point, guys it really seems like this is stemming from the ECU. If anybody has anymore ideas on tests for a CTS system let me know and I will do them.

You should not be seeing 5 volts on the signal wire with the car off. The +5v sensor voltage comes from the ECU and with the car off the ECU should also be off. So maybe the ignition might have been still on or if not there is a problem here. ECMLink can tell you both the current temp from the sensor and the raw value in volts. I expect an OBD2 scanner might be able to as well.

Last question, once again I am a 420a guy, but is ECMLink a piggyback system for the 4g63T? Meaning its just a stock ECU that this system tunes from the OBD 2 scanner or is this a system where you have to rewire the ECU to make this system work or is this a standalone ECU?

The reason I ask is for replacement reasons if the ECU is indeed needing a rebuild or not obviously there's still tests until then but just getting ready for the worse.

ECMLink is software the repurposes the factory ECU hardware. Part of it lives in the ECU and part is on your computer that talks to the ECU. (The client software) You can consider ECMLink as somewhere between a piggyback and a standalone.

 

[Brian O Conner]

From your picture in post #33 ECMLink is configured with the Wideband connected to the Front O2 sensor input to the ECU. If there is a Narrowband O2 still in the O2 housing of the turbo you would still use it as the front O2 and connect the WB to the rear O2 input.



Good to know, assuming your clearing all the faults correctly it means they are still active issues.



You should not be seeing 5 volts on the signal wire with the car off. The +5v sensor voltage comes from the ECU and with the car off the ECU should also be off. So maybe the ignition might have been still on or if not there is a problem here. ECMLink can tell you both the current temp from the sensor and the raw value in volts. I expect an OBD2 scanner might be able to as well.



ECMLink is software the repurposes the factory ECU hardware. Part of it lives in the ECU and part is on your computer that talks to the ECU. (The client software) You can consider ECMLink as somewhere between a piggyback and a standalone.

It only shows 5 volts when car is in on position. Just to stop any confusion.

 

[Justin DuBois]

Ok major updates!



For the O2 sensor question it is downstream or Number 2.
/

OK - Change the ECU input for the linear wideband from where it is now, (Front O2) to (Rear O2), leaving the (Front 02) setting at "Factory/none"

As for clearing the faults for the DTC part of ECMLink goes, it would not let me clear the 2 DTC codes.

As for the testing of the CTS system goes, Sensor is good. I took it off and did the ohms test with cold water, room temp water and hot water and the ohms fluctuated like they should and I did the test multiple times. So I do realize that is not the problem. Signal wire shows almost 5 volts with car off and sensor unplugged. The other wire shows a ground always (with sensor unplugged or plugged in). I am starting to think there's an issue with this ECU. I traced the wires and they look good at plug in area. There's an idiot light on in car for coolant and my OBD 2 scanner shows a constant 108 degrees Celsius on the data stream with sensor unplugged and plugged in as well. I don't know if there's more tests I can do at this point, guys it really seems like this is stemming from the ECU. If anybody has anymore ideas on tests for a CTS system let me know and I will do them.

Last question, once again I am a 420a guy, but is ECMLink a piggyback system for the 4g63T? Meaning its just a stock ECU that this system tunes from the OBD 2 scanner or is this a system where you have to rewire the ECU to make this system work or is this a standalone ECU?

The reason I ask is for replacement reasons if the ECU is indeed needing a rebuild or not obviously there's still tests until then but just getting ready for the worse.

If I were having weird sensor problems, I would fix my alternator first - or at least have it tested

Open the ECU and take a good steady pic in focus - upload here. I had excellent service from ECM Tuning support. I think its money well spent on the bench fee for them to look at and repair the ECU.

 

[Brian O Conner]

OK - Change the ECU input for the linear wideband from where it is now, (Front O2) to (Rear O2), leaving the (Front 02) setting at "Factory/none"

If I were having weird sensor problems, I would fix my alternator first - or at least have it tested

Open the ECU and take a good steady pic in focus - upload here. I had excellent service from ECM Tuning support. I think its money well spent on the bench fee for them to look at and repair the ECU.

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Let me know if I did this right.

 

[Justin DuBois]

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Partially correct - you need to also change these:

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[Brian O Conner]

I was able to lock rear O2 voltage but was not able to change the air fuel guage or user defined linear wideband for some reason. I got a video loading up to post on here. I dont know whats going on.

 

[Justin DuBois]

I was able to lock rear O2 voltage but was not able to change the air fuel guage or user defined linear wideband for some reason. I got a video loading up to post on here. I dont know whats going on.

You can access those controls with a live connection to the ECU - You can't edit those from a log file.

 

[Brian O Conner]

You can access those controls with a live connection to the ECU - You can't edit those from a log file.

Ooooohhhhh right on man I was freaking the hell out thinking this software was broke.

So I have it connected to the ecu and maybe I am not clicking the right things but its not letting me change those values. Is it on that same page to change those or on another?