ECMlink [RESOLVED] 1995 Eagle Talon TSi doesn't build boost

[Justin DuBois]

So I have it connected to the ecu and maybe I am not clicking the right things but its not letting me change those values. Is it on that same page to change those or on another?

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Then Open the ECU Inputs tab and try clicking on the words - "Factory/none" which should become a pull down list

 

[Brian O Conner]

You can access those controls with a live connection to the ECU - You can't edit those from a log file.

 

[Justin DuBois]

Excellent. While you are there, click on "Captured Values". Make sure you have front 02, coolant temp, linear wideband, Combined FT, tps voltage, and as many other standard criteria that you want to log/plot in the live stream.

 

[Brian O Conner]

I will just got to get this thing started. Fyi I was able to clear the DTCs. I just had to be connected in the live area. Any advice on where to add more fuel to get this thing to start during cranking operation?

 

[Justin DuBois]

I will just got to get this thing started. Fyi I was able to clear the DTCs. I just had to be commected in the live area. Any advice on where to add more fuel to get this thing to start during cranking operation?

Upload a log - attach a ".elg" file to this thread using the add photo's dialog

 

[Brian O Conner]

Post a log so we can inspect the ECU setup, and post a picture of the engine so we can get some context on the configuration. A/T ?

The 2003 Compaq laptop will not log in on here I tried multiple times guys. I am going to do more tommorow. I did adjust the global injector size found out how to do it and got it to 550cc. I tried checking the physical timing with a timing light and cannot find the timing marks on harmonic balancer. Here is the video of the live stream.

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[Justin DuBois]

The 2003 Compaq laptop will not log in on here I tried multiple times guys. I am going to do more tommorow. I did adjust the global injector size found out how to do it and got it to 550cc. I tried checking the physical timing with a timing light and cannot find the timing marks on harmonic balancer. Here is the video of the live stream.

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email the file to yourself - get file from phone, upload from phone

Regards timing mark, get white crayon or paint market, jack up the corner, find mark with flashlight and enhance. you may need to bump the starter, or rotate by hand to find it.

 

[steve]

315 F coolant temp I don't think that's working. Same for the 12.1v battery.

 

[Justin DuBois]

315 F coolant temp I don't think that's working. Same for the 12.1v battery.

Yeah, thats not going to run too well, and its stuck open loop, the fuel trims are not updating. The Front o2 is sometimes cycling, but the AFR will never hold until the water temp reads normal, and close loop is working.

 

[Brian O Conner]

315 F coolant temp I don't think that's working. Same for the 12.1v battery.

I am pretty sure this ecm is messed up. I tested the alternator the other day and it was putting out 13.7 volts while running. The coolant sensor litterly tested out good and connections were doing what they were suppose to do 5 volts on 1 side with key on and 0 volts when keys off and the other side has a ground. I have dealt with fried ecms last summer with my 420a(theres a whole post I did on that rabbit hole) and this is just dejavu all over again. Fyi I tested the ecm with the cts unplugged and it does not make a difference on the ecm with my obd 2 scanner it stays at the 108 degree Celsius. I actually believe I have another ecm for his car a buddy was telling me he thought he had another 1. So I am going to look for that. Just to see if values change.

FYI maybe you guys know somebody but pretty sure car would not run at no 315 degrees F and be on fire cause even 250 is extremely dangerous let alone another 65 degrees past that point is car bomb 101.

 

[Justin DuBois]

I am pretty sure this ecm is messed up. I tested the alternator the other day and it was putting out 13.7 volts while running. The coolant sensor litterly tested out good and connections were doing what they were suppose to do 5 volts on 1 side with key on and 0 volts when keys off and the other side has a ground. I have dealt with fried ecms last summer with my 420a(theres a whole post I did on that rabbit hole) and this is just dejavu all over again. Fyi I tested the ecm with the cts unplugged and it does not make a difference on the ecm with my obd 2 scanner it stays at the 108 degree Celsius. I actually believe I have another ecm for his car a buddy was telling me he thought he had another 1. So I am going to look for that. Just to see if values change. FYI maybe you guys know somebody but pretty sure car would not run at no 315 degrees F and be on fire cause even 250 is extremely dangerous let alone another 65 degrees past that point is car bomb 101.

Might as well open it and look - and 13.7 is what my dead power regulator would say too, until you put a little load on it, then poof - no amps. Should read 14.5v

 

[Brian O Conner]

I meant 14.7

 

[Justin DuBois]

I meant 14.7

Lets see the inside of that ECU.

 

[Brian O Conner]

Lets see the inside of that ECU.

Ok major updates here. I ended up fixing the coolant sensor issue which was a nightmare. I ran a jumper wire from pin 83 temp sensor wire to the sensor and wiring was definitely not the problem. Even though the ohms fluctuated during the tests and showed the right ohms readings. I ended up buying a new CTS sensor and it ended up fixing the problem of starting the car. Now the car starts up everytime.

As for the timing goes after finally finding the timing marks on the crankshaft pulley I ended up testing that multiple times. If 10 is before top dead center and T is 0 car was idling at anywhere from 5-7 degrees after top dead center not before!

As for the Alternator readings goes it does not work at times it jumps up to 13.7 volts but other times it stays at battery voltage. I checked belt and it is tight like it should be. Not sure if the voltage regulator is what's causing this or not. Should I just get a new alternator for this? I read these are internally regulated alternators.

Anyways guys as soon as these problems are fixed I am going to try to log on to my email with that Compaq laptop and do the email idea but you guys thanks for the advice so far.

 

[steve]

Yes these are internally regulated and ECU controlled on a 2G. The common killer is heat and leaking power steering fluid. Looks like this one has suffered from both.

2G - Alternator not charging, Help

Hi, does anyone have an alternator pinout With colors? I have a 95 gsx and it literally has a rat nest of wires and its not charging. Can someone give me oem colors and positions on wires?You must be registered to see element.You must be registered to see element.

www.dsmtuners.com

 

[Justin DuBois]

Ok major updates here. I ended up fixing the coolant sensor issue which was a nightmare. I ran a jumper wire from pin 83 temp sensor wire to the sensor and wiring was definitely not the problem. Even though the ohms fluctuated during the tests and showed the right ohms readings. I ended up buying a new CTS sensor and it ended up fixing the problem of starting the car. Now the car starts up everytime.

As for the timing goes after finally finding the timing marks on the crankshaft pulley I ended up testing that multiple times. If 10 is before top dead center and T is 0 car was idling at anywhere from 5-7 degrees after top dead center not before!

As for the Alternator readings goes it does not work at times it jumps up to 13.7 volts but other times it stays at battery voltage. I checked belt and it is tight like it should be. Not sure if the voltage regulator is what's causing this or not. Should I just get a new alternator for this? I read these are internally regulated alternators.

Anyways guys as soon as these problems are fixed I am going to try to log on to my email with that Compaq laptop and do the email idea but you guys thanks for the advice so far.

That's a major breakthrough! Coolant temp is huge. Regards timing - Awesome - you are asking the right questions. T is definitely 0. Its been a minute since I ran the 1G CAS - I'm going to confirm some behavior and get back to you.

 

[Brian O Conner]

Lets see the inside of that ECU.

That's a major breakthrough! Coolant temp is huge. Regards timing - Awesome - you are asking the right questions. T is definitely 0. Its been a minute since I ran the 1G CAS - I'm going to confirm some behavior and get back to you.

Is 5-7 degrees advanced super bad? If so is it possible to retard the timing?

 

[Justin DuBois]

Here is what you want to see:
Video shows timing held at 5 deg (BTDC)

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and on the crank, it should look like 5 deg (BTDC) It looks more like 3 deg in the picture but that is because the camera viewing angle is poor

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Timing advance (the time before top dead center) BTDC is expressed in ECM Link as a positive number.

Does yours look close to this above?

Is 5-7 degrees advanced super bad? If so is it possible to retard the timing?

5-7 at the crank with the timing grounded is slightly high, and you change the timing by loosening the 1G CAS bolts and rotating the housing a tiny bit at a time. Lock it down when you see 5 on the crank.

 

[jed344]

5-7 advanced at crank is not super bad per say. When idling decently stable and locking timing at 5 deg you can do as said and adjust the cas a hair so it sits right around 5 deg.
This is done so the ignition timing target and value reported in log is accurate. The ecu assumes 5 deg advanced base. Ignition timing values are degrees before top dead center aka BTDC, before top dead center.

When say this is 10 degrees instead of 5 and you target say 20 degree's. The ecu and log will say 20 but in reality you are 25 degree's because its 5 degrees more advanced then expected. This is syncing timing and is done with all standalone ecu's ect. Heck machine work throw's this off. This is done so the ecu target is correct with the real advance the motor is seeing.

 

[Justin DuBois]

"The ecu assumes 5 deg advanced base."

Well, sort of - the ECU has feature to hold 5 deg instead of dynamically adjusting the timing, making it easier to calibrate the position of the CAS.

 

[Brian O Conner]

Ok a lot came up in January but anyways I ended up fixing both the CTS problem and alternator problem.

Way before I did this post back in early January I changed the injectors to 550cc injectors. I did change the Global deadtime and Global injector percentage to -20 to compensate for the bigger injectors. This is how the car is currently running at full throttle and at idle.

I am going to copy some of these tuning files on a USB drive so I can upload them on here for you guys to look at but here's the video on how the car is running currently. Sorry it took me so long to get back to you guys a lot has been going on.

It is running super rich don't know if there is some techniques. I did try to adjust the global percentage even more and it did not make a difference really. I don't know if these RC injectors are bad they came with the car in visually good condition in a box used.

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[Justin DuBois]

Your airflow shows 0 -
At idle its not in closed loop.
Fuel trims are all 0 with no dynamic updates to Combined FT.

 

[Justin DuBois]

Upload a log so I can help.

 

[Brian O Conner]

This is the tune you guys have been asking for. Please God help me out.

.

If you guys want to make corrections and pre upload it. I will tune it from there. I want to tune it with speed density I have been doing a lot of research that way. Read books and watched videos and read stuff online.

 

[steve]

If that log is current, your Engine Coolant Temp is still broken. The injector size is stock, the alternator is still not working. It's configured for a WB O2 connected to the front O2 input and that doesn't see to be working or configured correctly.

Until the ECT sensor is fixed you'll never be able to enter closed loop, same for the O2 sensor.

If these logs don't reflect the current state then we are still shooting in the dark.