1G Replacing wheel stud on 1g

[NoobTSIowner]

I was replacing a tire and 4 of my 5 wheel studs snapped off. Its the front passenger side with ABS. Now I've found how to do it and remove the abs, but I want to keep it on there. How do I replace my wheel studs with out removing my whole assembly?

 

[kj2fast4u92]

How did you manage that one? Only way i have ever broke more than one was on a 1968 Ford pickup that has sat for 15 years and they twisted off when i tried to break them loose... Well anyways you have to remove the rotor and use a punch to hammer them out and put new ones in the back. Also since you broke 4 on one wheel alone you might want to check the rest out if you haven't already.

 

[Bud92gsx]

Had a couple break on one wheel..Just had a local shop do it..175$ later and car was back on road..

 

[MrBoxx]

The way we do it at work is as follows (this works for MOST cars):

Step 1: Get a hammer and whack the old broken-off stud until it pops out the back of the bearing. I'll assume you already have the wheel, caliper, and rotor off the car so you're just looking at the hub itself.

Step 2: Get new studs. Make sure they have the same length, shoulder, and base-width as the old studs. Most OEM studs will have an extended shank on the end that isn't threaded; most aftermarket ones do not. No big deal, as long as length and thread pitch are the same.

Step 3: Carefully put the new studs in from the back of the hub. Some hubs/bearings have clearance to do this, some do not, so that's why I say this works for MOST cars. Get the stud centered in the hole as best you can. Put a large castle-nut or sleeve over the stud from the front, then thread a lug nut onto it. Make sure the lug nut centers itself into the castle-nut/sleeve/spacer, but doesn't slide inside it. You just want a flat surface for the lug nut to push against when you tighten it down.

Step 4: You'll really want an impact gun for this. Tighten the lug nut down onto the spacer, which should start pulling the stud through the hub face. Watch from behind to make sure the stud is coming through straight and true. Sometimes, they'll #### to one side and you'll have to start over again. When the stud is fully flush with the back of the hub, loosen the lug nut, take off the spacer, and repeat steps 1-4 as many times as you need to.

Option #2: If you don't feel like replacing lug studs one at a time, you can just replace the wheel hub assembly, which gives you 5 brand new studs on a brand new wheel bearing all at once. However, in my experience, a hub bearing replacement often ends up after several hours of penetrating oil, oxy-acetylene torches, hammers, pullers, swearing, etc. and is generally not worth the effort in the first place.

 

[Geier]

You have an ABS ring on the back of your knuckle. It needs to be pressed off. You will have to remove the entire knuckle to do it right.

Go to the junkyard and get a new hub.

 

[MrBoxx]

Why get a junkyard hub that's been sitting around rusting for who-knows-how-long? These wheel bearings have enough issues without resorting to one from a junkyard. Spend the hundred or so dollars on a new one with a 1 or 2 year warranty, and then rest easy.

Or put in a junkyard one that may last a week or so before howling.

 

[camocorvette]

The way we do it at work is as follows (this works for MOST cars):

Step 1: Get a hammer and whack the old broken-off stud until it pops out the back of the bearing. I'll assume you already have the wheel, caliper, and rotor off the car so you're just looking at the hub itself.

Step 2: Get new studs. Make sure they have the same length, shoulder, and base-width as the old studs. Most OEM studs will have an extended shank on the end that isn't threaded; most aftermarket ones do not. No big deal, as long as length and thread pitch are the same.

Step 3: Carefully put the new studs in from the back of the hub. Some hubs/bearings have clearance to do this, some do not, so that's why I say this works for MOST cars. Get the stud centered in the hole as best you can. Put a large castle-nut or sleeve over the stud from the front, then thread a lug nut onto it. Make sure the lug nut centers itself into the castle-nut/sleeve/spacer, but doesn't slide inside it. You just want a flat surface for the lug nut to push against when you tighten it down.

Step 4: You'll really want an impact gun for this. Tighten the lug nut down onto the spacer, which should start pulling the stud through the hub face. Watch from behind to make sure the stud is coming through straight and true. Sometimes, they'll #### to one side and you'll have to start over again. When the stud is fully flush with the back of the hub, loosen the lug nut, take off the spacer, and repeat steps 1-4 as many times as you need to.

Option #2: If you don't feel like replacing lug studs one at a time, you can just replace the wheel hub assembly, which gives you 5 brand new studs on a brand new wheel bearing all at once. However, in my experience, a hub bearing replacement often ends up after several hours of penetrating oil, oxy-acetylene torches, hammers, pullers, swearing, etc. and is generally not worth the effort in the first place.

9 year post response hahaha.
It's great info!