1G Quick questions on replacing exhaust & turbo bolts & studs

[XC92]

I've been having rough idling issues on my 30 year old Talon TSi so I'm taking everything apart on the intake, fuel rail & exhaust, cleaning everything and painting where called for, and replacing all the gaskets, o-rings, bolts, studs, washers & nuts, along with the vacuum lines. Probably overkill but it can't hurt (if I do it right of course). I like things clean and fresh and 30 years does things to a car, so might as well "while I'm in there".

What I'm wondering about is:

1. OEM studs, bolts, washers & nuts ok?
2. Use anti-seize on exhaust studs & bolts, and if so what kind and on both stud ends?
3. What kind of RTV to use on bottom center stud that goes into oil galley?
4. How much torque when installing studs into head, with and without anti-seize?
5. Do I need an O2 sensor socket, or is an open-ended wrench ok (or crow's foot on a torque wrench when reinstalling)?

I've read up on proper stud removal technique, so I'm good there (PB, heat, double-nut, gentle, etc.). Anything else to watch out for or do on a stock 1G turbo setup?

 

[pauleyman]

Update, I was able to find the right studs on extremePSI, so I'm good there. Also, mmc-manuals.ru looks like an absolute goldmine I hadn't found yet, so many thanks for informing me about it; we'll see if there's any good information/software there that AllData might not have. Thanks for all the quick replies and suggestions: now it's time to get my crusty dusty OEM exhaust off and get the headers and catback welded and on.

Bonus on the mitsu software is it will have embedded parts TSBs and part supercession numbers. It is THE definitive reference for OEM part numbers.

 

[XC92]

Bonus on the mitsu software is it will have embedded parts TSBs and part supercession numbers. It is THE definitive reference for OEM part numbers.

How did this end up here?