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Changing rear wheel stud on 2G AWD

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MindBlowin03

20+ Year Contributor
876
657
Apr 11, 2002
Jessup, Pennsylvania
What's the easiest way to remove a rear wheel stud on a 2G AWD? The drum style e-brake assembly makes it impossible to do without removing something. Im assuming the e-brake is easier to remove than the hub so I think I should go that route. Any help is appreciated.
 
Personal preference but I like to remove the whole setup because of the angle and you need to hammer the new one in.

May take longer to do but much easier in the long run.

Here is a picture of one I did on my RS

For me it happened when I was installing rear disc brakes
 

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I found this while trying to find a definitive answer for the rear stud removal....
Quote:
((((((Originally Posted by 1992awdlaser View Post
Take the brakes off(unbolt caliper take rotor off). Hit them with a hammer. I am not sure if the wheel bearing has to come off on your car because of space issues behind the stud. Try hitting one out once and see if it will come out. Make sure to turn the wheel bearing so that the stud you are hitting has the most room possible behind it. Use the same spot for the rest of the studs.

I use my air hammer to pound the new ones in. Just use a punch and a hammer to hit the new ones in from the back. If there is not enough room in the back to do this, put some spacers around the stud and then thread an extra( not gonna be used) lug nut on the stud to pull it through until it is flush with the back of the hub.

Thanks, man! If I took more time to look, I could have seen myself that it's actually quite easy. With the rotor off, a mini sledge will knock them right out.

On the rears I had to remove the bottom spring on the parking brake shoes (under the rotor), and the adjuster piece in order to get the old stud out/ new one in.

I used a 1/2" impact and stud installer tool to pull the new ones into place.))))))

This thread may or may not help you....

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/new...merged-4-9-stud-broken-replace-replacing.html
 
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honestly I've never had to replace a stud on a dsm so im not sure on any clearance issues but if theres room like my chevys had I used a punch centered on the stud and a good hammer atleast 20oz. to bang them out. To install you could either bang them in (never tried it) use a shop press which I had my best and easiest results or get an old lug nut with some washers and an impact gun to pull the stud into full seat. Put some motor oil on the stud it will help a lot and if using an impact gun go a bit then back off, make sure it's oiled as it will generate a lot of heat.
 
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