The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

removing head on the 420a

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

danny7481

15+ Year Contributor
53
0
Feb 1, 2007
Brandon, Mississippi
how difficult is it to remove the head on the 420a? ive done head gaskets before, but not on this engine, any advice/tips? thanks.
 
the reason for pulling the head is bent valves, should i just go ahead and rebuilt the head or just replace the valves that are bent? car has 210K miles on it. thanks.
 
Its not hard to replace, but time consuming. Since it's caused from a timing belt breaking, you will have allot of work and time in repairs. Headgasket and timing belt. You've got some miles, I would suggest looking over your head, check cams, seals, lifters, rockers, springs, retainers, and the pistons. When the valves met the piston, there is probably some damage there.

Read this for head removal, and replacement.
http://forums.2gnt.com/dcboard.php?az=show_topic&forum=4&topic_id=61876&mode=full

Read this for everything else to look out for when replacing your head gasket.
http://www.allpar.com/fix/headgasket-2.html
 
It is a easy motor to work on compared to other similar motors. It is much easier that the 4g to work on IMO. Just dont forget the brackets on the back of the intake mani. The first time I pulled a 420a I didnt know about them and could figure out why the head would not come off.:notgood: And as with any motor triple check timing before you turn it over with the starter. It will save you from :barf: if you mess it up.
 
replacing all the valves wont be that bad if you have done it before, also i would have the head checked for cracks and re surfaced while you have it off. or if you dont want to take the time on the valves just find an eBay head. usually can get a good deal. i have a spare head if you really want it make an offer. also im all for checking the timing around 10 times. learn from others mistakes even if its off a tooth it will run like ass, or possibly bend the valves.
 
man i have everything disconnected and the dam head is still stuck on the f*in engine it has a bracket on the back of the head how does that come off n what size im burnt out :cry:
 
man i have everything disconnected and the dam head is still stuck on the f*in engine it has a bracket on the back of the head how does that come off n what size im burnt out :cry:

Take it easy, it's only a few bolts. There are two brackets that hold the intake manifold to the block. All of the bolts are metric; probably 13mm, 15mm or 17mm.
 
VelocitàPaola;151976130 said:
Take it easy, it's only a few bolts. There are two brackets that hold the intake manifold to the block. All of the bolts are metric; probably 13mm, 15mm or 17mm.

I just pulled the head on my 95 2 days ago. If you have cruise control there will be a vacuum tank in the way. the nuts that hold that in place are 13mm. once the vacuum tank is out of the way you can get to the bolts that hold the brackets to the head. They're 15mm and much easier to deal with from UNDER the car
 
I just pulled the head on my 95 2 days ago. If you have cruise control there will be a vacuum tank in the way. the nuts that hold that in place are 13mm. once the vacuum tank is out of the way you can get to the bolts that hold the brackets to the head. They're 15mm and much easier to deal with from UNDER the car


That little black box in the back of the block was my worst enemy the first time I pulled the head, LOL. Just take your time and breathe, think about it this way: its better than pulling out the passenger side mount... :p
 
Sounds familiar to me. I remember the first time I pulled my head, in '03.

I label everything as I take it off, keeping each nut/bolt in their own baggy with a label on it. Makes putting it back together a breeze.

I have pulled my motor sooo many times now I can get it out in about 3 hours, and thats the whole motor. I can pull the head in about 2.

The hardest part for me the first time was the passenger side motor mount. Then I realized with it partially unbolted you can lower/raise the motor so the bolts are easier to get at.
Made a world of difference!
 
I need to pull my head too but I never done it so I am a little worried about doing it.



I would suggest spending the $20-$30 and go to your local parts store and get a chiltons manual. The manual walks you through almost every single thing you need to know, even torque specs on weird stuff like your valve cover. It is a very valuable resource, and really helps a shit-ton when people are in your position.
 
I would suggest spending the $20-$30 and go to your local parts store and get a chiltons manual. The manual walks you through almost every single thing you need to know, even torque specs on weird stuff like your valve cover. It is a very valuable resource, and really helps a shit-ton when people are in your position.

Thats what I did, I would have gotten it out today.. BUT Florida sucks, and cant decide if it wants to storm or not. gotta like random showers....:f-u:
 
Thats what I did, I would have gotten it out today.. BUT Florida sucks, and cant decide if it wants to storm or not. gotta like random showers....:f-u:


Words of wisdom; The first couple times you pull everything apart use labels and a marker and some baggies to seperate/sort everything. I lay a few shop towels down to make a clean spot on the floor and as I unbolt the motor I label everything as it comes off and keep it neet on my towel space. Then when putting things back together you know what goes where and where the bolts are for it.

I did this the first 3-4 times pulling my motor apart. Plus if there is any time between pulling apart and putting back together you don't have to rely on memory alone to put things back in order. It takes an extra 5 minutes and is more then worth it.

And for what its worth I have never had a bad build. Every single time I built It started on the first shot. Take your time and pay alot of attention. It will be worth it later on. :thumb:
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Latest Classifieds

  • For sale 2g 2G Mishimoto Radiator & Fan Shroud
    2G Mishimoto Radiator & Fan Shroud $200 + shipping and paypal feesYou must be registered to...
    • jersygsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 2g 2G Power Window Switches ( tested and hardware included )
    2G Power Window Switches $55 + shipping and paypal fees* Tested 6/2/26 * Hardware included *...
    • jersygsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale VIRGIN 4G63 6-BOLT TURBO HEAD
    Came off a virgin stock AWD Auto 1G DMS (91), also have matching block and crank which are also...
    • The_Partout_Spot
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 1G DSM 4G63 6-BOLT TIMING COVER
    Used, see condition in photos. Buyer covers shipping / fees.
    • The_Partout_Spot
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale Garage clean out
    Changing setups on the car and getting rid of some stuff as well that's been laying around. Will...
    • 92GSXtacy
    • Updated:
    • Expires
Back
Top