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Recirculation tube?

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Egst

10+ Year Contributor
34
1
May 16, 2011
Venice, Florida
Why does my 2g dsm want to dye, like idle really low when i take off this tube for a louder bov sound? Does it have to do with my MAS?
 
Here we go. Your car is not tuned to run without that hose. Basically what happens is this....

-Air comes in through the filter and is accounted for through the MAS
-Computer compensates that air with fuel
-Air is recirculated and fuel/air mixtures are won'erful

Remove that tube and you are losing all air that was accounted for. Technically speaking you would be running stupid rich and would smell straight gasoline. Please keep said hose connected. :)
 
Its throwing your A/F off,get a Greddy BOV and u still can recirculate and still hear the same thing.
 
Even better. Get hard intercooler piping and hear your BOV all day long. Why is the noise so important? Wouldn't you feel better knowing your car is functioning properly?
 
Just like ktgurl87 said get aluminum intercooler piping an aluminum intake and a 1g bov you will be able to hear you bov and still have your car running and functioning as it should.
 
I think its a young kid thing LOL or just i dunno people must think it sounds kewl my self id rather have no one hear it at all. To be more sleeperish LOL
 
i love hearing my BOV, but I would rather have mine recirulated. The previous owner put an injen in take on, w/0 a recirculation tube, and a Apex'i BOV that is unable to recirculate so 'm venting to the atmosphere, and unfortunately I don't have the money to fix this.
 
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/fre...tions/113858-venting-your-bov-atmosphere.html

EDIT: Actually, now that i think about it, your idle should not be affected as long as your intake pipe is capped off. The bov should not alow air to escape AT IDLE. If your intake is capped and your idle is affected you may have a bad bov. I am not recommending you vent.

it never worked on mine... no matter what i did... it would always effect my idle unless i put the tube back on
 
Effects my idle no matter what. But for some reason's some turbo dsm aren't effected by this. Both my buddies are running vta with no idle problems but piggy rich SOMETIMES!
 
If you want to vent properly you need to get a tuning device that allows incorporation of speed density or run a GM MAF in blow through mode. Otherwise as others mentioned, you are making an air leak in your intake system when the BOV goes off.

It's the same issue as a boost/vacuum leak except the BOV is a more "controlled" leak. By the way, have you done a proper boost leak test today?

Not to mention, you will have better spool up between shifts with the recirculation hose connected. All of that air you blow out could be better utilized to help spool up the compressor wheel if you still have the internal hard pipe on the stock intake.
 
OP,
I'm going to assume you left the hole open to your intake after you pulled the BOV tube. This will cause what is essentially a HUGE vaccuum leak and yes, your car will run terribly.

Now I'm going to tell you to put that recirculation hose back on. However, if you are determined to have that loud BOV sound, at least cap of the opening to the intake. Except for running rich between shifts (and therefor have a slight bog and black exhaust puff on shifts) it will run fine.

The only 'correct' way to vent the BOV to atmosphere is to run a blow-though GM MAF setup or go speed density.
 
Not gonna lie I did this at first (vented to atmosphere) because I liked the psshhh sound. BUT after reading and running the car a bit, quickly realized it was not good and just got a Greddy Type S and recirculated. Same sounds but car was running as it should.

When I did vent to atmosphere, my idle was affected even when the intake hole was capped off. I have seen other DSMs venting to atmosphere idling fine. Just ran richer than they should.
 
it would always effect my idle unless i put the tube back on

Effects my idle no matter what. But for some reason's some turbo dsm aren't effected by this. Both my buddies are running vta with no idle problems but piggy rich SOMETIMES!

As said here:

...your idle should not be affected as long as your intake pipe is capped off. The bov should not alow air to escape AT IDLE. If your intake is capped and your idle is affected you may have a bad bov

If pulling the recirc hose on the BOV (and plugging the intake nipple) causes the idle to change by any significant amount, then you either have a leaking BOV diaphragm, or you are pulling enough vacuum at idle to overcome the BOV spring and allowing air to be sucked in past the diaphragm...in which case your BOV would probably be leaking like crazy while under any decent amount of boost.
 
yeah, hahaLOL

alright thanks everybody, but how can i check if its leaking?

I wouldn't bother testing it because the 1g BOV is so much better and it's so cheap. You can pick one up on here for 20 or so bucks.

If you really want to waste the time to pressure test something to see if it's broken when you could easily get a 1g bov as a upgrade for 20 bucks, go ahead. If you don't have a air compressor or a home made tester than you will be spending WAY more than the cost of the BOV.

Plus the 1g BOV is slightly louder. You won't hear much until 15 or so PSI.
 
Can i do that at home or take it to a shop?
 
but how can i check if its leaking?

Boost leak test.

Except you'll want to pull the vac line off of the BOV and plug it at the IM. This will tell you how much pressure the BOV can hold before the spring opens on it's own. If you don't pull the vac line, pressure in the IM can bleed back through the vac hose to the BOV and help keep it closed (to some extent). This is fine for determining if the BOV leaks during boost, but not for finding out if it leaks during idle and non-boost conditions.

If you really want to do it right, you could hook a hand vac pump to the BOV and see what it takes to open it. If it opens with less vacuum than you see while the engine is idling, then you've found a leak and the source of your idle issues when it's not recirculated.
 
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/new...se-troubleshoot-boost-leak-tester-merged.html
Intake Leak Pressure Tester
You'll need access to an air compressor or have a portable tank available. Tire inflators will not work.
Pressurize the intake system (at least 20psi) starting at the throttle body and start spraying soapy water on everything that holds air. You are looking for bubbles. Pressure should hold for at least a minuite pending on engine internals.

If you rotate the crank to 30*ATDC then the intake valves will be closed. If you hear air escaping from valve cover pinch off the PCV tube (it's faulty and needs replaced with OEM). You can also buy one of these and put it in between the intake manifold and PCV. After all leaks are found continue at the turbo inlet.

Common leaks are injector seals, throttle body shaft seals, old vacuum lines, intake manifold gasket, old cracked inter cooler hose, improplerly attached couplers.
 
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