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2G rear hatch struts

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crimsondragon

15+ Year Contributor
4,300
50
Dec 17, 2006
East Brunswick, New Jersey
they're not workin as best as i figure they would. i used to be able to pop the trunk wit the lever and lift it up. now it's a two person job where i have to hold the lever up until the person lifts the gate up otherwise it'll just get stuck. would coatin the struts in lubricant help? or maybe spraying sum wd-40? btw i seen the threads on them through search and to piss u guys off, my struts work even in the tri-state winter :tease: they just don't work well.
 
they're still good struts since it holds up and all. it's just lacking a little. i dunt want to shell out money for sumthin that is still working since it'll go into other mods. ill try to find sum lube or sumthin from pepboys.
 
The problem is pressure in the struts, not lubrication. WD40 wouldn't do much of anything.
 
i just sprayed sum today on the struts and after movin them up and down a lil to get the oil goin, i can open my trunk by myself! yay! u guys should do it too :thumb:
 
My 99 has had that problem for 4 years and no amount of oil, lube, WD40, vasalene, adjustment, or anything else has helped. New struts are too expensive for me and just not worth it to go out every 4 years. On mine you pull the lever, walk back and pull up, go pull the lever again, walk back and pull up again (this second time it always opens and will stay up but you have to push it all the way).
 
ebay has them for $34 for both left and right. just type in "eclipse trunk strut" and they're right there.
 
My 99 has had that problem for 4 years and no amount of oil, lube, WD40, vasalene, adjustment, or anything else has helped. New struts are too expensive for me and just not worth it to go out every 4 years. On mine you pull the lever, walk back and pull up, go pull the lever again, walk back and pull up again (this second time it always opens and will stay up but you have to push it all the way).

They're like 40 bucks man. That works out to like $10 a year. Thats too expensive? :p


::edit::


Yikes, golden oldy for sure.
 
WD-40 would ruin them actually, just replace them
they have gone past their prime
and if you are by yourself just pull the latch, walk back there and lift it, the pul the latch again and it will open fine... (obviously I get my daily workout)... and if you have a pair of vice grips laying around, those work good as a stopper to hold it up ;)
 
i have the monroe brand one and they are great! i got them from rock auto

I just got the Monroe struts from Rock Auto but they don't match my old ones! My old struts had a bracket attached at the end of the lower rod but the Monroe's do not. How are these supposed to work?
 
Commenting on an old thread, because I fear I'm starting new ones way to often - Does anyone actually know how strong these struts need to be? I'm getting new ones made because it's cheaper and more efficient than buying new ones from China or somewhere, but I'd just like a ballpark number so I don't make them too strong and bend the brackets or too soft and they just don't replace the blown ones I have... thanks!
 
I can't imagine having custom ones made is going to be cheaper than buying already designed ones that are available. If I had the specs I'd pass them along but maybe a few links will help. It doesn't seem like Kranj would have many local parts stores.

MR100457
MR100467

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And they had specs:
  • Extended Length A [in]: 33.66
  • Stroke C [in]: 14.54
  • Compressed Length B [in]: 19.12
  • Force (Lbs): 53
  • Force Newtons: 236
  • Shaft Connection: Eyelet w/Bracket
  • Body Connection: Ball Socket U Band (Nylon)=10mm=3/8"=.39"
  • Rod Diameter (MM): 8
  • Cylinder Diameter (MM): 19
  • SKU: 4952L-R-W
  • A Interchanges: 010372, 010451, 10403, 4952L, 4952LR, 4952L-R, 4952R, 8195716, MR100457, MR100458, MR100467, MR100468, RB8795184
 
We'll let me tell you it is cheaper - there's a shop 15 minutes away from me that makes 'em anyway you need 'em for $20. I get my parts locally if I can because as you already guessed, there is no store like that in Kranj and even less so another Eclipse (the few, the proud over here XD), so ordering parts online is almost the default for me so I try to avoid it because shipping gets so expensive.

Thank you for the link, it's just the specs I needed. I am a little worried about how strong I'm making them now though, because up to this point I was sure the old struts must have blown, because they felt so soft - but now that I see the official spec is only 236 Newtons... that's just about as strong as they feel. But that's so strange because they don't help you lift the hatch up at all, they barely even hold it top dead postion. Are you guys's hatches also like that? Anyways, I hope making them a little stronger will at least help them kick up the hatch a little more when I pull the release, cause as of right now, opening the trunk is a 2 person job - one pulls the release, the other lifts the hatch otherwise it gets stuck half released.

Thanks!
 
The Tuff Support ones I ordered from Rockauto (they are actually made in Turkey so you could look into ordering from the manufacturing plant directly) are so strong that as soon as you pull the hatch lever it unlocks and it starts going up by itself on a stock full weight glass + talon spoiler hatch. II believe their force was rated at 280 Nm or thereabout. For comparison the two Chrysler 300C hood struts I installed on my front hood are rated at 300 Nm and they also want to send the hood flying off to the moon so between 250-300Nm is a good ballpark for hood or hatch double strut setup.
 
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