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questions about 400hp 7bolt build

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josh1095

Banned Member
453
5
Aug 27, 2009
st. jacob, Illinois
ok, just got a 97 gst w a knock. its in the shop now gettin engine removed and prepped for machinist. so one guy says he will do all labor(machinist) like bore, deck, hone etc and assemble entire block for 800. a guy across town who has a good rep, says he will build it with forged internals, arp and all supporting mods to handle "25lbs" and over 400hp. all assemled too for around 2200. now im gonna have head worked too so have to add a few hundred im sure. first off, is this a good deal?
my list is
1000cc injectors
fmic
16g
exhaust
wideband w dsmlink(lite or full version?)
walbro and afpr
new clutch also going in.
should i buy the parts individually and have the 1st guy build it or go with the all inclusive deal from the 2nd guy. bout to blow some cash, prob around 6000 all told so i wanna do it right. and heres hoping this ####ing post doesnt get deleted LOL thanks guys n girls
 
ok, just got a 97 gst w a knock. its in the shop now gettin engine removed and prepped for machinist. so one guy says he will do all labor(machinist) like bore, deck, hone etc and assemble entire block for 800. a guy across town who has a good rep, says he will build it with forged internals, arp and all supporting mods to handle "25lbs" and over 400hp. all assemled too for around 2200. now im gonna have head worked too so have to add a few hundred im sure. first off, is this a good deal?
my list is
1000cc injectors
fmic
16g
exhaust
wideband w dsmlink(lite or full version?)
walbro and afpr
new clutch also going in.

I guess it's an okay deal if you aren't doing anything yourself.

my friends and me each have used the same machine shop for our blocks/heads.

$300ish is what I'd expect for assembling a block depending on the shop/motor itself. It cost my buddy's $200-300 to have their civic's blocks assembled each time with pistons / rods / crank / etc.
Pistons will probably run 400-500
Rods 300-500.

my head cost me $140 for complete disassembly and reassembly and hot tank and new valve seals, resurfaced. Buying internals for the head will up the price.

There's just too much missing info alltogether, I'm confused if you're saying you'll have to send the block to both of the guys or what. Whether or not you're removing your motor yourself. Etc etc.

And you dont need to "build your car for 25lbs"
The stock head and stock internals are good for it with the right tune. My talon was running around 350whp on a completely stock head, stock bottom end). I only had ARP hardware. But arp headbolts are generally recommended anyway for higher boost.

I ran the hell out of my talon and it ran great until the day I sold it, and I tuned it myself on 91 octane on v3 lite and I only knew the basics of tuning on lite.
 
ok let me clarify:
the first guy is doing a simple in/out. meaning he will remove entire engine, drain fluids, and strip accessories to prep longblock for delivery to guy2(machinist). he is charging 900 to 1000 for the engine swap. i thought that was a good deal. i told the machinist i would be looking to build for 400whp so plan accordingly.
as far as building back to stock rods and pistons i think that would be foolish. like i said, i dont know dsms well but understand that if i have an engine ripped out, machined and prepped i might as well go with forged internals. not that stock is bad quality, i just want room to grow if i choose to upgrade it down the line. 350 - 400 is a shit load of power so ill prob be happy. whats a good reasonably priced piston/rod combo and place to buy. and btw, thanks for the help
 
no its not a 6bolt. im still have faith that a properly built and maintained 7 bolt will perform just fine. any crank can walk, maybe they are more prone but this is gonna be practically brand new so im not worried. ya, i will use the search function. im just jumpin into this really fast, have little time, and the car is in the shop as we speak so i gotta cram!
 
Dsm graveyard has a piston rod build combo that you can pick what pistons and rods you want in the kit for around $720

There's a lot of different choices for the rods and pistons for the combo there all forged internals eagle ,manley, scat, wiesco ect.

There's a lot of different choices for the rods and pistons for the combo there all forged internals eagle ,manley, scat, wiesco ect.
 
Theres so many routes you can go with piston/rods. usually what i do is look at a car im planning to have my goal set at and look at how there car is setup. Im poor as of now so when i did my rebuild i used a set of evo piston/rods.. little higher compression, lighter and stronger. fairley cheap also,but again it all depends what you want
 
+1 for DSM Graveyard. They have a good selection and they assemble the pistons and rods with ARP hardware.

And I hope you're not trying to get 400whp with the 16g. If you're going to be running forged internals why not get something bigger such as a 20g or a Holset, they are much better turbos for the job.
 
+1 for the bigger turbo. If you are going to be buidling up the internals, why not go with a bigger turbo. If it is horsepower you are looking for then go with the bigger turbo. I'd also go with bigger injectors too, it's way easier to go bigger now than it would be to re-buy things. (I'm a huge Borg Warner turbo fan... take a look at them before you buy your 16g)
 
no its not a 6bolt. im still have faith that a properly built and maintained 7 bolt will perform just fine. any crank can walk, maybe they are more prone but this is gonna be practically brand new so im not worried. ya, i will use the search function. im just jumpin into this really fast, have little time, and the car is in the shop as we speak so i gotta cram!

usually, the best thing to do is to have one person/shop do all the work so that it is gauranteed.

16g is not going to give you 400whp unless you do tons to it with other mods that compliment it and even then, the only way to come close to that is to rev the fool out of the engine as hp/tq are just functions of each other.

1000cc injectors will be just fine. For your goals, I would suggest an externally gated fp green equivalent. You will need around 700cfm flow or about 50 or so pounds/min flow to get 400whp with a good intercooler system and good tuning. If you like garret then go with a 3076 or larger turbo if you like BB turbos as well.

hope this helps
 
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