Project 9's No compromise !!!

[Black94DSM]

Nice pick up Slippi. I'm glad you found a better shell. All these good parts and a decent shell just didn't seem right. Sorry to knock the old shell.

Now change your avatar!

 

[1fastlaser]

Yeah trust me when this thing gets here(mind you I live in NJ and he's in Utah ) this project will go a lot faster.

Things that made me switch shells:

1: The S bar design after talking with a place called Tony's Motorcraft around here scares me. I saw the pictures of the car that rolled like 10 times and it bent the threw dash bars I could just imagine those S bars bending like twings. Granted it's easier to install cause you don't mess with the dash but I don't want easy I want safe...without compromise

2: Not only is the cage design better(threw the dash bars, rear struts are tied together, built in harness loop) the cage is already suited up with the chute mount plate and lever.

3: I saw a quote from coltboosting that said something along the lines of If I can't enjoy a car any time I want where ever I want it has no business in my garage. I looked at all this money and time I'm spending and the idea of only driving it in a straight line for 9 seconds at a time is good but I would want to run the streets causing chaos for muscle car guys and imports a like from time to time. My old shell would not have been able to do this with it's SUPER gutted interior.

4: Less important but still important, the paint on the new shell is already a sexy gloss black and just needs a good scrub and the car would look the part and be fast.

So in a nut shell getting the old shell to have all those things would cost a lot more to do then to pick this shell up. I am a do it yourself kind of guy but you have to be smart. People usually do it themselves because it's cheaper not just to say they did it(even though that's part of it)

That shells real clean.

Keep up with the work, get that sucker done, and get into events. Thats what im aiming for now. I put over 8000 miles on my car over the summer, and maybe raced 5 times.

 

[TSimage]

How the tide turns.. You know what I'm talking about too. Its all in perspective now I'm sure, lets you see things from another angle. There's a difference between giving up and upgrading..

But congrats on the shell, super upgrade. I've always liked Evil Eagle it just seemed like Casey never had his heart in it. Definitely one of the nicer shells around, It was one of the main ones I was checking out before I decided to go with Eriks.
You're much closer to your goal now.

 

[Slippi84]

Sorry about the blackberry replys that things kills me

To steve: The chuete mount comes out so it looks like just a hole of course there is still the battery cut off but what you gonna do. I guess I just have to save up money to make some good runs here and there....at the track . To be honest though when I say enjoy it on the street it's not just about racing someone else it's just about driving and enjoying the car.

To 1gDSM4g63 : My manifold is a 44mm manifold so the flanger comes up higher and on top of that my 38mm adaper comes up even further still so that would be mine fits and yours probably doesn't. DOn't worry you are not the only person that has claimed to have problems with the 38mm manifold. Great manifolds and I would reccomend Jake to anyone but I think the 38mm design needs some minor tweeking.

To Tsimage: I have to admit I do see the logic and the reason for changing shells now as I look at your prgress now I understand a little better. The thing is though I give the credit of the shell to casey now not to myself. I kinda feel like you take credit for the whole build even though you did not have a hands on with some of the stuff you are doing. I love the car and how it's turning out and wish nothing but good things for you man just a little bit of humble pie would go a long way. Good luck again on your build. My build is not a ground up build anymore which I'm ok with but it is still a good build in my eyes and I would hope in others eyes too even though I build it for me not for anyone else. The thing is I would have paid someone to do the chuete the paint and other stuff that makes this shell better so it's not like I did anything different I just found a deal on all the stuff already done.

 

[99gst_racer]

The new shell looks great, Sean.
I'm loving the cage work!

 

[Slippi84]

The new shell looks great, Sean.
I'm loving the cage work!

Thanks man. Yeah this is what your new bar will be going on. I agree the cage work is def high quality.

 

[Superman]

That car is super clean. That was a great buy. I hope mines looks that good when I get the cage in. Your project should take off now.

 

[Slippi84]

Yeah my biggest thing I have to figure out now is turbo bracing . This thing could tip the whole car it's so heavy. A top mount would have def been a better idea but a goo dbrace will make this still a nice setup.

 

[Slippi84]

Wanted to do another in house mock fitting to make sure there aren't any huge F ups so far. SO far looks good. Of course the block isn't in the picture yet but the stock water pipe can be dented and the hoses will be proclassic line so they will be able to flex out the way. The COP was sold as it was wired up for a 90 but I will get the 91-94 unit from the same ebay company soon as I really liked how it was put together and already wired and labled.

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[dsm-onster]

Engine building in the kitchen. Aircompressors and heads in the living room with light carpet

 

[Slippi84]

Engine building in the kitchen. Aircompressors and heads in the living room with light carpet

 

[DWR-DSM]

I got money she beats him at night with his old valve cover

 

[Slippi84]

I got money she beats him at night with his old valve cover

No I just do all the work while she's sleeping and then clean up real fast. I'm like dang babe you gotta start taking your shoes off before you come in look what you and the dog are doing to the rug

 

[DWR-DSM]

Thats funny

 

[Slippi84]

I don't know how many of you guys have seen this but I know this is going to be one of the next things I get out the way. It's disk that goes inside your CAS that takes away those 10 crank EMS starts that are notorious with AME EMS.

Trigger Disc

 

[Slippi84]

Just thought I would give a quick update because I know I hate when build threads I'm watching go dormant. I should have the new shell here from utah a month from now ideally and then I can't throw the stuff back on that I had laying around from the other shell. Once that's done I can shift my focus back to this engine which I have been pushing off for a while. I will be using a AMS-1000 to control boost and for you guys that haven't seen this thing it's crazy how something as simple as a boost controller can be turned into a project.

Here is a link to the unit
NLR Systems 2007

Just to get a idea of how the install will look go to page 20 in the manual.Mine will be slightly more elaborate because I have two wastegates but not to much I am just going to use a 1/8 npt cross right at the top of the passenger side wastegate and then run a line to the increase and decrease solenoids which will be mounted to the frame.
http://www.nlrsystems.com/core/docs/AMS-1000.pdf

 

[4gsx63]

$850 for a boost controller? No thanks, I will stick with my $85 unit

 

[Slippi84]

$850 for a boost controller? No thanks, I will stick with my $85 unit

SHIT before this it was a $25 ebay unit . The thing about this unit though is that it alows you to run say a 5psi spring so you can run in my case as little as 10psi(not that I would) and still have the ability to run my goal psi of 45-50psi. In a nut shell it pressurizes the top of the wastegate with however much pressure you set the controller to and you ad that pressure and the spring pressure and that's how you determine the desired psi. Most serious racers run this or a similar unit because when you make as much hp as I'm trying to make traction and drivetrain durability bevcome issues and controling boost like you would a progressive nitrous controller becomes very useful as you can take away that shock. It takes longer to setup of course then a basic unit but you can take any turbo really and make the powerband linear which is what you want in good performing turbo car.

 

[DWR-DSM]

Looks good to me slippi

 

[nikkeebabee]

The problem with eletronic boost controllers are they are NOT consistent. I haven't messed with this said unit, but the ones I have don't even compare to a hallman.

Get a decent manual controller and see what it does for you. I would much rather spend 200 between some wastegate springs and a hallman rather then 850 on an eletronic boost controller that can be a pain. Remember the keep it simple.

Why did you decide on el cheapo wastegates??? I would be worried about running serious boost on those. It's one thing for say 5-10 psi on a honda but on a serious build I wouldn't have compromised on those.

 

[Slippi84]

The problem with eletronic boost controllers are they are NOT consistent. I haven't messed with this said unit, but the ones I have don't even compare to a hallman.

Get a decent manual controller and see what it does for you. I would much rather spend 200 between some wastegate springs and a hallman rather then 850 on an eletronic boost controller that can be a pain. Remember the keep it simple.

Why did you decide on el cheapo wastegates??? I would be worried about running serious boost on those. It's one thing for say 5-10 psi on a honda but on a serious build I wouldn't have compromised on those.

This unit is the most consistant unit on the market. If I'm not mistaken Rauu runs this same unit. I was at the PanAms and just about every car I saw in the pits had one of these badboys.

As for the wategates not everything that isn't tial is junk. A wastegate is not a complex part and I have had GREAT results with ebay wategates. This unit came with all the right fittings and when I broke it down everything was on the level. If anything breaks on it, which would really just be the spring or diaphram, I can replace them with tial stuff and still come in a lot cheaper than tial 38's. Not to mention these are actually taller which made fittment a lot easier putting it further away from the compressor housing on the passenger side.

 

[1fastlaser]

The problem with eletronic boost controllers are they are NOT consistent. I haven't messed with this said unit, but the ones I have don't even compare to a hallman.

Get a decent manual controller and see what it does for you. I would much rather spend 200 between some wastegate springs and a hallman rather then 850 on an eletronic boost controller that can be a pain. Remember the keep it simple.

Why did you decide on el cheapo wastegates??? I would be worried about running serious boost on those. It's one thing for say 5-10 psi on a honda but on a serious build I wouldn't have compromised on those.

Ive had my HKS evc ez for 9 years no with no issues what so ever. Its also been good to 38psi.

Are you going to aem ems again? or dsmlink? If you are running aem I would go with the boost control solnoid or a good electronic one. 850 dollars on a stand alone boost controller used for 7 sec full our race cars isnt needed. You gotta think most of those cars are automatic making 1500hp, leaving in boost on a bottle off the trans brake. Traction is a issue for them, especially the guys running the 10.5 tire class going 7s. Alexs evo is making 1200hp and hes using aem boost controller, honestly there is nothing crappy on that car eather. The car even had a sequential shifter on the thing (which sucked,and they took it off).

If your leaving on a 2step on some kind of slick its not gonna spin if all is setup right. Also big turbos are progressive enough, and its only gonna slow it down. Theres not one guy I know of running any kind of progressive boost controller on a awd car. That 850 dollars on that boost controller can go to much more needed stuff.

Also I seen the crank plate thing for aem. Honestly its all in the tune, My car starts in 3 cranks with aem and no other aids.. Some people dont know how to setup the starting tables in aem, gotta know how to set it so it catches early. Some just leave it to the stock map and mess with everything else.

 

[Slippi84]

Ive had my HKS evc ez for 9 years no with no issues what so ever. Its also been good to 38psi.

Are you going to aem ems again? or dsmlink? If you are running aem I would go with the boost control solnoid or a good electronic one. 850 dollars on a stand alone boost controller used for 7 sec full our race cars isnt needed. You gotta think most of those cars are automatic making 1500hp, leaving in boost on a bottle off the trans brake. Traction is a issue for them, especially the guys running the 10.5 tire class going 7s. Alexs evo is making 1200hp and hes using aem boost controller, honestly there is nothing crappy on that car eather. The car even had a sequential shifter on the thing (which sucked,and they took it off).

If your leaving on a 2step on some kind of slick its not gonna spin if all is setup right. Also big turbos are progressive enough, and its only gonna slow it down. Theres not one guy I know of running any kind of progressive boost controller on a awd car. That 850 dollars on that boost controller can go to much more needed stuff.

Also I seen the crank plate thing for aem. Honestly its all in the tune, My car starts in 3 cranks with aem and no other aids.. Some people dont know how to setup the starting tables in aem, gotta know how to set it so it catches early. Some just leave it to the stock map and mess with everything else.

Yeah but this thing can do more than just slow down the boost response you can limit how much boost is run in each gear which is what I plan on doing. Like I can limit it to like 20psi in first, 30 in second and let her rip for 3rd and 4th. This is extra useful for when I drive the car on the street. At this point in my build it is not that much money considering how much I have invested in the car and this is one of those cases where the best part for MY BUILD is the most expensive. Reliability and track proven results back this up.

 

[nikkeebabee]

The difference with Rau running this is he's RWD and needs something like this.

Shep who is AWD uses a Hallman

Hav eyou run 50 psi on an ebay gate yet??? The issues with running the 38's is they leak. I would prefer running a v band wastegate.

it just seems silly to run $100 wastegates but an $850 boost controller.

 

[Slippi84]

The difference with Rau running this is he's RWD and needs something like this.

Shep who is AWD uses a Hallman

Hav eyou run 50 psi on an ebay gate yet??? The issues with running the 38's is they leak. I would prefer running a v band wastegate.

it just seems silly to run $100 wastegates but an $850 boost controller.

This is a true divided setup so neither gate will see a true 50psi. I really only think it will take 45psi but for argument sake just use 50psi. Each wastegate is only regulating half the exhaust flow so 25psi max each. I think that a ebay wastegate, which by the way cost less than 100 , can handle that much boost.