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Project 9's No compromise !!!

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After talking with the selle more seems like the guy tha originally setup the head was trying to build a 9.5sec auto car with 2.0 bottom end and the head porter(CHris I think from a companycalled advanced airflow engineering out of Michigan) had the cams custom ground do compliment the head porting. I don't know how much of this is true or if it will help me so I"ll just have to wait to get the cams in and see what I got. WHat makes me wonder is the seller said he had someone(a dm guy) check them out and the guy said that these cams were too big for his setup. I don't know anyone that would say 272's are too big for their setup.
 
I give you mad props on your build.

I have been building my dream 800hp 2g talon for the past year and i am about a month away. Wish I could work on it all day but the time is just not there/money.

I am going with a 7bolt 2.0 setup. Hopefully since Eagle has my back crank walk will not knock on my door.

Keep the updates coming!
 
I give you mad props on your build.

I have been building my dream 800hp 2g talon for the past year and i am about a month away. Wish I could work on it all day but the time is just not there/money.

I am going with a 7bolt 2.0 setup. Hopefully since Eagle has my back crank walk will not knock on my door.

Keep the updates coming!

Thanks and I def will. Once I can put aside the money for bottom end parts I will be set and things will start flying. I have the head and the HG and the block so no I just need to pick up some L19's and make up my dam mind on internals and I'm golden. The most expensive stuff left now is drivetrain stuff. Between a built trans/transfercase and raxle race front axles that's like 4500.

I just booked my hotel at best western in Norwalk so either way running or not everyone that goes to the shootoutwill be able to see the car. Hopefully runnig and maybe even making some passes :)
 
I went with Groden aluminum rods and wiesco 1400Hd pistons

How hard was it to get the block machined for the rods to fit? That's my biggest worry with going aluminum rods. It's a shame that most of the aluminum rod info you read or hear is all either speculation or hear say.
 
They drop right in with no machine work needed on my 7bolt. I’m not 100% sure but I believe grodon 6bolt rods are a drop in or you might have to notch a little off the mains. I got mine from FFWD talk to Darren he is good people.
 
They drop right in with no machine work needed on my 7bolt. I’m not 100% sure but I believe grodon 6bolt rods are a drop in or you might have to notch a little off the mains. I got mine from FFWD talk to Darren he is good people.

I have talked to him a couple times
 
Sweet! going with kiggly springs?

Now I know this is going to sound hard to believe (trust me it was for me to untill I talked to the guy on the phone) but I'm gonna use the crower springs as he had the same setup and experienced no valve float during 2k of use with some 9k shifts.

When he told me I was like maybe he's talking about BC springs which are stronger but nope he used regular crower springs and retainers with BC288's which are the HUGE 288's not the crower 288's that are more like 280's. Trust me though if I get this thing on the dyno and it floats even a little up top I will be swapping to either to kigglys or the ffwd bee-mads, but as of now I am going to run the crowers that are on there.
 
A 'little' float kills valves and pistons.

Agreed, which is why I will monitor it and check clearances at TDC and BDC before and after first start up and short free reving.

You of all people know that sometimes they tell you you need the biggest baddest spring just to cover their ass it's not always mandatory. The guy I got the cams from has/had a 3575 with bc288 spings and crower springs and ran it like that for 2k reving to 9k and had no valve tapping or floating.
 
Sometimes its best to spec out the springs before use, so when you go into rechecking them you can see what has changed if anything at all. A valve spring pressure tester would be a great tool to have.

Plus doing alot of research on spring design, and typical spring vs cam lift/duration numbers. Because if they float your new motor is going to become a expensive paper weight. Make sure there its spec'd, and ready, not saying you need different springs, but make sure you got test numbers, and nothing is odd balled.....your starting to "comprimise" your setup LOL.
 
Agreed, which is why I will monitor it and check clearances at TDC and BDC before and after first start up and short free reving.

You of all people know that sometimes they tell you you need the biggest baddest spring just to cover their ass it's not always mandatory. The guy I got the cams from has/had a 3575 with bc288 spings and crower springs and ran it like that for 2k reving to 9k and had no valve tapping or floating.

;) I spec'ed the manleys. I think that you will probably be fine. Just don't want you to think that you can catch the valve float in time. . . There's no such thing.
 
Lol relax guys this will be spec'd and respec'd. These exact cams have been to 9k without floating so as long as my springs(which are brand new) are cool I will be too. I said in the beginning not compromising didn't mean buying the most expensive greatest parts out.
 
Hey man, great build. I have been following your build for a while. I am starting my own build; however, I don’t have half your skill. I will be using a lot of things I learned from your build. I can’t wait to see your car run. It should be good. Keep up the good work.
 
Hey man, great build. I have been following your build for a while. I am starting my own build; however, I don’t have half your skill. I will be using a lot of things I learned from your build. I can’t wait to see your car run. It should be good. Keep up the good work.

Thanks and good luck with your build.

I already sourced out a valve spring tester from work so I will have it once the cams and lifters get here(I ordered 3rd gen lifters) I will throw it all together so that all I will need to is finish my short block and I can throw her back in the car.

As for rushing the build don't worry just because I would like to have her ready and running for the shootout I will not cut corners to get it done by then. Besides will hall a not running car to the shootout if I have to just so people can see the car in person as it sits so far up until that point. I don't plan on having it 100% at this shootout because I still have a lot of stuff to take care of and most of the stuff that's left isn't cheap. Only time shall tell.
 
Well I found the secret to the previous owners success he had his springs shimmed. Now I'm debating to shim these or just go ahead and get new springs.


Edit: nevermind he was just refferring to the high pressure spring seats that come with the springs.
 
AFAIK.. my crowers dont have any high pressure spring seats
 
I would call up crower and ask them for more info but to be honest I have bad history with them and they wouldn't know anyway. I won't go off on a tangent though all I will say i that when the cams get here I"m gonna throw in the 3rd gen lifters and rollers and when it's time I willcheck and double check clearance as per FP who suggested rotating the crank 10* and checking clearance by pushing down with a pry bar one intake and one exhaust valve at the first cylinder and then seeing how much travel you have. Other than that I'm not too worried about it.

Tomorrow I finish paying for a part I been waiting for for a while :hellyeah: Then the short block is on the list then fuel and last drivetrain.
 
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