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Project 9's No compromise !!!

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Looks good man, but how you going to setup a staging brake as a ebrake considering it has no locking setup on it? I would just leave the ebrake in.

Yeah I realised it doesn't lock so I threw that idea out the window. The staging brake will be in today and I'm gonna throw her in and run the lines. The beauty of the staging brake is you can run one flex line from the staging brake to the front and one to the rear of the car that will take place of the old rusted metal lines that control the rear brakes. There is a good write up that helped me know what to order on dsmtalk. I think that's the first time dsmtalk has ever been helpful ROFL.

I finally got a hold of Jeff at turbo trix and I'm gonna have them hack up my stock harness and make a complete new one pretty much and tuck the wires to clean up the engine bay as soon as I get this motor back in the car. Slowly but surely she's coming together.
 
Slowly but surely she's coming together.

That's how it works. Just double checked my stretch on my arp rod bolts. And found that my number one bolts are way over stretched. Little crap like this slows you up. But when moving 3steps forwad and 2 steps back, there's no sense in whining about the 2 steps back if there's no way around it and it has to be done right. Just keep plugging away.
 
That's how it works. Just double checked my stretch on my arp rod bolts. And found that my number one bolts are way over stretched. Little crap like this slows you up. But when moving 3steps forwad and 2 steps back, there's no sense in whining about the 2 steps back if there's no way around it and it has to be done right. Just keep plugging away.

Yeah to be honest I haven't hit any big set backs yet which is why I"m worried I would rather get them out the way now then closer to the shootout LOL. I will drag this car there in whatever condition it's in though. That way atleast people can see in person what she looks like.
 
What fuel do you plan on running for track use? I read you wanted to run E-85 but I assume for DD. Have you thought about setting up the engine for alcohol. I have a track DSM set up for alcohol and there are huge advantages if you run alcohol, this would of course force you to change your race class (if you plan on racing in one) and you would have to get a new fuel rail and more injectors. It would be a hassle though if you want to drive the car around on the road, drain tank, separate tune.

I scratched the 2.2 idea because it's just not worth it really considering this thing doesn't need any more low end to do what I need it too and I want to rev as high as possible as safe as possible. So this will just be aluminum rod race piston block with stock un touched 2.0 crank.

As for fuel I am going to be running e85 in the car at all times so I think I can still run in regular classes. I don't plan on doing a whole lot of braket racing to be honest though. This will still see more street time than track time. I have to kinda keep that in mind when I do stuff because I want to do everything it takes to go 9's at the track but still not take away ALL streetability
 
Nothing real big yet still saving up for a couple big things but went to the car today and put the pins in for the clutch master and brake master. All I have to say is whoever thought of how to install those should be shot. Anyway Pics show the hood pins installed and a pic of how I will be installing the staging brake. Better more interesting to pics to come promise LOL.

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Oh yeah I have a windshield now too :)
 

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Yeah I'm just saving my pennies to pick up a couple big pieces right now that's why I'm not updating as much as before. As the parts needed get more expensive the updates will be bigger but fewer. :thumb:

ROFL def know what your saying!

Im buying all the "Expensive" stuff now, thats why my updates are slow :(

Now lets get the show on the road!!
 
ROFL def know what your saying!

Im buying all the "Expensive" stuff now, thats why my updates are slow :(

Now lets get the show on the road!!

Yeah but your last update was like 4k in parts LOL. I don't want to spill the beans about stuff cause even though I"m not compromising I'm still looking for good deals. With that said there are def two deals that I'm gonna try to hop on along with a big piece I need to finish paying off that will all be more interesting than my hood pin install ROFL
 
ROFL

i just noticed the shaved pop up headlights....

Im new to 1g's so is there a way to make the smaller housings with lo/hi beams??

Unless its an all out drag car..

It will see the street more than the track to be honest that's why I kinda scaled back on a couple all out drag things like the old kirkey seat and such. But that is no shaved headlight section that is a custom fiberglass hood with the sections built in :) I will do what I did with my first 1g, use a honda socket assembly and fit it into the housing and use that for headlights not the pop ups which have been deleted all together on this build.
 
It will see the street more than the track to be honest that's why I kinda scaled back on a couple all out drag things like the old kirkey seat and such. But that is no shaved headlight section that is a custom fiberglass hood with the sections built in :) I will do what I did with my first 1g, use a honda socket assembly and fit it into the housing and use that for headlights not the pop ups which have been deleted all together on this build.

ah very good!

Def show us the progress on that :D
 
Got a steal on this ported and polished head with 1mm+ valves titanium retainers with aftermarket springs with a set of custom grind cams. I'm trying to figure out what the characteristics of these cams is but they look close to 101300's.
 
I tried to make it easier to read. Let me know if you guys can figure out how aggressive they are now. They are def not 101300's they're custome grind but I can't tell how aggressive they are.


Cam I: Intake / Exhaust

Valve adjustment: HYD / HYD

Gross valve lift: .411 / .411

Duration @ .004 tappet lift: 259 / 259

open / close

Valve timing @ .050: Int: 8 BTOC / 24 ABDC

Exh: 42 BBDC / 10- ATDC

These specs are for cam installed @ 98 Intake Center Line
Intake / Exhaust

Duration @ .050: 212 / 212

Lobe lift: .4110 / .4110

Lobe seperation: 107.0



Cam E: Intake / Exhaust

Valve adjustment: HYD / HYD

Gross valve lift: .395 / .395

Duration @ .004 tapprt lift: 258 / 258

open / close

Valve timing @ .050: Int: 10- BTDC / 42 ABDC

Exh: 24 BBDC / 8 ATDC

These specs are for cam installed @ 116 Intake Center Line

Intake / Exhaust

Duration @ .050 212 / 212

Lobe lift .395 / .395

Lobe seperation: 107.0
 
Here's some pics I will take a couple better ones when it gets here and I have everything on it.
 

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Cam I: Intake Exhaust Cam E: Intake Exhaust

Valve adjustment: HYD HYD Valve adjustment: HYD HYD

Gross valve lift: .411 .411 Gross valve lift: .395 .395

Duration @ .004 tappet lift: 259 259 Duration @ .004 tapprt lift: 258 258

open close open close

Valve timing @ .050: Int: 8 BTOC 24 ABDC Valve timing @ .050: Int: 10- BTDC 42 ABDC

Exh: 42 BBDC 10- ATDC Exh: 24 BBDC 8 ATDC

These specs are for cam installed @ 98 Intake Center Line These specs are for cam installed @ 116 Intake Center Line

Intake Exhaust Intake Exhaust

Duration @ .050: 212 212 Duration @ .050 212 212

Lobe lift: .4110 .4110 Lobe lift .395 ,395

Lobe seperation: 107.0 Lobe seperation: 107.0

AHH!! what is that!?!?!? the numbers are all off. Did you try to copy/paste a table? I can't tell you what you have until I know the .050 duration. I see TWO different .050 duration numbers per cam WTF. You can't change duration by changing the centerline :p. . .

They look like 101300. Which are 272s with an advanced intake cam for stroker piston speed. I'm not sure that's what you're after.
 
AHH!! what is that!?!?!? the numbers are all off. Did you try to copy/paste a table? I can't tell you what you have until I know the .050 duration. I see TWO different .050 duration numbers per cam WTF. You can't change duration by changing the centerline :p. . .

They look like 101300. Which are 272s with an advanced intake cam for stroker piston speed. I'm not sure that's what you're after.

Yeah it's kinda messed up in the listing too. He said they're custome but they look a hell of a lot like 300's. I;m not sure if i'm going 2.3 or not yet how do these things perform in a 2.0 reving high?
 
They perform like 272s on 2.0L. They have 212-213 duration.

Increasing the stroke causes the air velocity to go up and 212 duration cams will act like they have a lower duration.
 
They perform like 272s on 2.0L. They have 212-213 duration.

Increasing the stroke causes the air velocity to go up and 212 duration cams will act like they have a lower duration.

Hmm well I'm gonna wait till I get them in but if that's the case they will def be getting sold. I need something more in the 280 range.
 
Yeah I would love some fp2x but to be honest I don't think the springs are good enough because while it didn't say what they are in the for sale ad they def look like crower springs or such which won't cut it for 2x's so I think I will be going with a 280 cam which is still not exactly a compromise :)
 
Those are custom centerlines, that's all. The intake cam is advanced and the exhaust cam is advanced. Not what you want for a 9second car.

Looks good for an N/A 4g63 build :p : both cams are more advanced and there less LSA (lobe separation angle). Might work well as a purely street stroker with a 7K redline. Something good for a stock 6bolt 2.4 motor with custom pistons, a budget 2.4 turbo build looking for 14b fun with a 50-trim.

Adjustable cam gears will give you the LSA and total cam advance you want with those cams. But I still think you should stick with 280s. You're better off with more duration than 272s, period, with a 700whp build.
 
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