Polk Tubular control arms for a 1G

[Greg Collier]

Polk you really should tell the public you make these, it could be a wise thing to do since the road racing/autoX area of the forums is growing more with racers...

He already stated he's up for making more...

I am all for making more control arms. It is a lot easier to make a run of several sets than just one set at a time. Yes we will still build them. If we can get a few people wanting them we would even offer them at a better price.

 

[mavisky]

I've got to go through and do all my bushings this winter and it'd be nice to upgrade while I'm in there if the price is within my budget. If you could even give us a pricing window that would help alot of us.

 

[Ludachris]

Being out of the loop regarding this upgrade my question was if the design was more drag related in relation to weight reduction. In its inception was the rigorous and constant torque of road racing on the "welds" a consideration. No intent of malice was intended as to my original or this question...

I'd really like to know the answer to Greg's question as well. Most parts like this were typically designed for drag racing. Were these meant to hold up to road course abuse?

 

[dherron]

I am definately interested in a set of control arms for my car, I have been looking for about a year for a set and have yet to find any. Please get a price on these but really know matter what it is I want a set because my balljoints move in my control arms and that is not a good thing, so please run another set. Thanks

 

[drewgray]

For those wanting pictures; here are some pics of my old set:

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[wishihadatalon]

For those wanting pictures; here are some pics of my old set:

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You say old set. Did they break? Sell the car? or just sell the arms?

 

[Greg Collier]

You say old set. Did they break? Sell the car? or just sell the arms?

They just arrived via UPS and are now sitting in my garage...

 

[wishihadatalon]

They just arrived via UPS and are now sitting in my garage...

You don't need them. Maybe you should give them to me

 

[tstkl]

Im interested, but again,...

PRICE?

 

[GSTinCO]

They just arrived via UPS and are now sitting in my garage...

Greg, when are you going to put them on? I would like to know how they hold up to the rigors of road racing. Hopefully they work well and we can get a few more sets made.

 

[Greg Collier]

Greg, when are you going to put them on? I would like to know how they hold up to the rigors of road racing. Hopefully they work well and we can get a few more sets made.

The plan is to get them on before the next race in two weeks. They are frigging light!

 

[underradar92]

They are frigging light!

They didn't seem so light 'till I removed my stockers and those things are bloody 'eavy!

 

[slipstream808]

Yes, but how strong are they by comparison? (I'm SURE they have to be stronger)

And how much better do they work?

 

[underradar92]

And how much better do they work?

I won't know till spring.

 

[Greg Collier]

Yes, but how strong are they by comparison? (I'm SURE they have to be stronger)

And how much better do they work?

I just got a set but I'm a little uncomfortable about installing them for the last race of the season. I'll be doing some testing in Jan and Feb of 2007 and get a feel for their structural integrity. Comparing the steel thickness and design of the OEM to the Polk’s is pretty radical. A lot of people are road racing with tubular control arms with great success, I'm probably just being bit paranoid...

 

[Elvenhome21]

Can you get a picture of the underside.

 

[talont3t4]

Any plans for us 2G guys Don?

 

[Elvenhome21]

Think of it this way, super late models that race at slinger (fastest 1/4 on earth) circle track use two Steel swedge tubes, the thickness of the tube is less than .040 and thats at a 1 inch diameter. Trust me when i say 1/4 mile circle track racing is 3 times tougher on suspension parts then road racing. So yes, overall this a frame should be plenty strong, the only thing i would have done differently is tied the tubes together once more closer to the ball joint to reduce flex, even just with a piece of flat stock 1/8x1x2 long

 

[underradar92]

the only thing i would have done differently is tied the tubes together once more closer to the ball joint to reduce flex, even just with a piece of flat stock 1/8x1x2 long

Do you mean something like this?

 

[cioc]

Are these in fact steel? My guess is .038" wall? Can anyone confirm?

 

[Elvenhome21]

if thats the bolt for the swaybar than yes

 

[cioc]

I don't understand your response. Is .038" wall too thin for a control arm?

 

[underradar92]

Are these in fact steel? My guess is .038" wall? Can anyone confirm?

1" od. chro-mo steel, yes. I cannot measure the tube thickness w/o sawing it apart, but the bits I can measure are .070 and .090 thick, leading me to believe the wall thickness is near .070-ish.

if thats the bolt for the swaybar than yes

That is a sway bar mount, I had to make one and have it welded at work, as the version I have is apparently a drag-style, and had no mounts. The ones they come with seem to accept a stock style link, but I'm going to use heim joints.

 

[Elvenhome21]

if those are moly I would think you would have to hit something very hard to tweak them, but if your meaning twisting or distortion from cornering force think of a sprintcar chassis and suspension tubes, they are made of all moly tubes that are even thinner wall. you can't get much stronger than moly, unless you go titanium

 

[RusherRacing]

Titanium, hum I wonder how much properly designed Ti ones would weight in at?
If $$$ is not object then I feel titanium is the only choice in materials for suspension components.

I think I am going ot modify my polk arms with a thin piece of webbing. Looking at the design with the swaybar mount right there it would only make sence.