Please help with Cyclone

[huafist]

ECU, Wiring Harness, boost guage, downpipe (I don't think the 1.8L exhaust is compatible).
I don't even know if the motor mounts are in the proper place on a 1.8L. At any rate it's gonna be a PITA, I would think.

 

[uvbneclipsed]

Thats funny they say it comes with a distributor. Correct me if Im wrong all 4g63s have coils. Continue discussion

derek

 

[RossY]

By the time you pay for the engine and get everything installed it would be more realistic to just sell your car and get a gst/x. There is a lot of work involved because of the differences in the the electrical system/sensors. If your not doing it yourself then don't do it all. The cost is just not reasonable.

 

[n0va91TSI]

Does cyclone intake manifold have dif gasket to the block? do the dual runners make a dif sized opening? need jdm gasket?

 

[BOOSTIN21]

uhhh last i checked intake manifolds bolted to the intake side of a cylinder head, but i think that they are the same but don't quote me on that

 

[Xenocide]

I'm doing a Cyclone intake install on a 90 Eagle Talon. I have all the parts and will set it up using the butterflies etc. once it is installed. My purpose in installing this is because this car is a daily driver and I want the increased fuel economy and the extra torque

I'm having a problem getting the 2nd piece of the intake to clear the A/C pump. In reasearching this, people have mentioned this problem, but nobody has a fix except the link here (http://www.wideopenwest.com/~ksmith3289/faq/cyclone/gvr4cyclone.html) in which they simply ground off one of the coil mounts. In my case the runner itself is hitting the flange that the AC pump is sitting on; it's close to fitting, but I don't know if I need to grind it down or what to get it to fit; what have others done? I know several people out there are running Cyclone Intakes; did any of you have this problem or did you pull the A/C? As I stated earlier this is my daily driver and pulling A/C isn't something I'm really willing to do.

Attatched are two photos; both are from the drivers side of the car; the engine is on the left and the firewall is on the right. One shows how close the intake gets to fitting, and the other shows the top of the A/C compressor and the fittings it is hitting.

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Can these fittings be ground down somewhat significantly or does someone have some ideas as to what I can do here?

 

[turbotsi92]

I would either junk the intake, or remove the a/c. Everyone says it is not worth the effort to put that cyclone manifold on, even if the butterflies work.

 

[MWAAWD]

Question 2
Where do you tap into the EGR circuit; can somone possibly upload a picture or describe that? I'm guessing there are some wires we can tap into on the firewall somewhere, but does someone have a color code for the wire and a location at least?

After some searching I found that non-CA cars have the wiring up until the final harness. If you look at the back of the engine bay where the fuel pressure and fuel purge solenoids are you'll also find a connector for the 3 wires to the left of the 2 solenoids. The connector will have one more wire on the main harness side. This is the EGR wire (ECU controlled ground.) If you don't have the fuel purge solenoid anymore you can just swap the pins so it controls the fuel purge like the EGR and tap the BCS wiring into the circuit.

 

[Defiant]

I'm doing a Cyclone intake install on a 90 Eagle Talon. I have all the parts and will set it up using the butterflies etc. once it is installed. My purpose in installing this is because this car is a daily driver and I want the increased fuel economy and the extra torque

Not to derail your intentions, but the Cyclone will give you only the slightest increase in either.

Figure the AC fitting is about 1/16" or so thick, and the manifold about 1/8". It doesn't look like they give you enough room. So, you can either re-mount the compressor, or build a goiter inside the manifold runner.

 

[UCSLugRacerX]

You said:
"My purpose in installing this is because this car is a daily driver and I want the increased fuel economy and the extra torque."

Ok...well...
You actually might gain more HP by removing the A.C., than installing the intake manifold. According to the intake manifold product tests, the 1G manifold is very good.

IMO, lose the A.C., and your engine will have less prasitic power loss, plus you'll have weight reduction of maybe 50 lbs.

Plus you'll have better fuel economy without the A.C.

 

[red7mgte]

After some searching I found that non-CA cars have the wiring up until the final harness. If you look at the back of the engine bay where the fuel pressure and fuel purge solenoids are you'll also find a connector for the 3 wires to the left of the 2 solenoids. The connector will have one more wire on the main harness side. This is the EGR wire (ECU controlled ground.) If you don't have the fuel purge solenoid anymore you can just swap the pins so it controls the fuel purge like the EGR and tap the BCS wiring into the circuit.

Is this Egr signal for 1g or 2g cars? Or do the 2g cars have this out put at 3000 rpm's also.
Thankz
matt

 

[illtww]

I did it on a 90 with AC installed. But engine was out of the car on tha stand and i ground away some of the the conflicting parts to make it JUST clear....

Works fine..


Travis W.

 

[RoasT BeeF]

Ideas? Sell it.

Hints? Its not worth the effort.

 

[ho bag]

you know i dont understand why all you guys hate the cyclone manifold.

if you install the manifold and hook the buterflies to a controler to keep the closed till about 8psi and 3000rpm they make anuf power to feel, and they do make stop and go trafic easier, they do increase gas milage and they do increase power! so if they do all of those things why are they so bad?

i installed one on my 9:1 turbo motor and i felt a noticable different both on and off boost, both having more power.

i think the people that hate them are the ones that throw them on there car and dont take the time to tune the car or setup the controler needed to make it work right and then say its junk.

thats liek me throwing a 20g and fmic on my car turning boost up to 25psi on stock fuel system and and saying the turbo is junk because my car runs liek shit.

But anyway, to fix your problem try adding a few washers t behind the ac compressor to space it out or gring a very little away form the conflicting parts, BUT dont take too much off the manifold or your gonan make a whole in it.

Personally i woudl ditch the a/c adn everything related to it, roll down the windows and drive 100mph thats what i do and it works mint!

 

[blue1]

The jdm engines run a smaller a/c compressor, it may be easy to find one of them, the mount plate is the same i think? Daily driver! keep the a/c, and i second what you say with the manifold if they are set up correctly and tuned they do make power and torque! Why do you you think all the jdm engines always make more power in stock form than the USA stuff!

 

[blue1]

Pity they didnt try one in the intake shootout they they had. i think a few mouths would have been shut with the results and the price of the manifolds would have increased through the roof! and the jdm a/c compressors!

 

[blue1]

There was another post on this ages ago. the EGR solenoid does come in around 3000rpm but is not used on USA cars. you can use this pinout to control the butterflies if you find the old thread it explains it all. i have mine controlled by a standalone which they come in at 4200rpm at 86% load and it works fine. the soleniods are off a volvo! http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/321988. and there is a picture of the vac cannister!!

 

[Xenocide]

Thanks to everyone for all the replies!

illtww, did you just grind down the intake and the compressor flange, or did you have to do anything with the bracket assembly etc?

blue1; thanks for the JDM A/C Compressor idea; that's the kind of solution I was looking for! I do want to keep A/C even though it is tempting to see what kind of power it would free up if I removed it. I've been shopping for a JDM engine anyway so this is another reason to get one. I'll start looking for a JDM compressor (if anyone has one let me know) and will continue saving for a JDM engine, but in the meantime I'll see if I can put washers between the air compressor and the bracket or between the bracket and the block - that sounds like a good idea and if I can reach it with the engine in the car I'll do it.

Thanks again for the ideas!

 

[ken inn]

here is what i did. one of the raised bosses for the coil is the problem. this can be ground down, and you will clear the a/c line. then, you rotate the coil bracket about 20 deg, redrill one hole, and use only 2 of the 3 coil mounting points. i also ground down part of the coil bracket, because i converted my a/c, and the suction line would not clear the cyclone coil bracket where the charge port is. ALSO, do not forget, if you are using the surge tank bracket, you have to grind away a LOT of it, or, it will cut the clutch power line, and start a fire. there are 2 long 8mm studs that are on the middle part, i removed these, and used long bolts. i have found the easiest way to install/remove the manifold is to take it apart. if you leave in the studs, it will not clear the a/c compressor. i have been using the cyclone for 3+years, and it has worked very well for me. i got more power than i need up top, i want, and got, the improved "driveability" and fuel economy.

 

[ken inn]

the gaskets are the same. i have had this sucker on and off more times than i want to remember.

 

[Xenocide]

Hey Ken Inn, thanks for the suggestions! I've read all of your posts regarding the Cyclone intake and that is partly why I've determined I want to use it. I was prepared to grind off the lower coil mounting point and had already drilled a hole to remount the coil with 2 studs instead of 3, but when after I put the second piece of the intake in the car and tried to connect it to the piece that was already bolted to the head; the middle of one of the runners hits the exact top of the A/C compressor (see a bigger version of the picture here (http://www.sophistical.com/PICS/cyclone 007.jpg) instead of the coil mounting point hitting it. I think we must have different compressors or A/C routing as you mentioned. I was also going to use bolts in place of the studs in the middle section as well so I wouldn't have issues if I wanted to remove it later. I think that I'm going to wait and see if I can get a JDM compressor that is smaller (or sits lower) or just wait till I have to pull the engine an then try to modify the bracketry. Do you have any info on how you changed the A/C routing? That also would work if it would help make the mounting point on top of the compressor any lower (half an inch would probably work.) I had never heard of anyone moving the A/C lines around.

 

[Scrymerr]

Can you not just get a slightly larger belt and then screw in the tensioner bolt more?

 

[Mighty Mouse]

you will still have 2/50 a/c if you get rid of the a/c pump.
3/50 if you have a sunroof.
dose wisconsen get hot enough to need a/c?

i live in nw washington so i just chucked my a/c when i did it

 

[AWDJDMTALON]

I have the same set up. I just ground a little off the intake runner and the a/c. It doesn't take much.

 

[Xenocide]

Thanks again for all the advice everyone! I ended up just using a DA to grind to off the top of the AC compressor and a little off the intake manifold and now it bolts up (with no room to spare.) Thanks goes to AWDJDMTALON for suggesting that he was able to make it work by just grinding down these pieces. If someone wants me to post pictures of what it took; let me know!