Please help with Cyclone

[Xenocide]

Thanks MWAAWD; I found the harness you were talking about and sure enough; it has an extra wire. I also had just removed my purge solenoid so I'm going to see if I can swap the pins in the connector and control the solenoid via that wire; thanks a lot for the info. If someone needs a pictures of that, I can post it.

 

[Xenocide]

Ok, I still have a problem with the wiring to the EGR circuit.

I have found the non-used wire at the plug to the left of the solenoid rack. The wire coming from the harness (from the MPI relay) is black with a yellow stripe. The short connector that goes to the solenoids on the rack doensn't have a wire connecting to that pin; it has 3 wires, one black which apparently is power and connects to the purge and fuel pressure solenoids, one red for the Fuel solenoid, and another blue for the purge solenoid. With the car running, the black wire has constant 14 volts (when I check it via a voltmeter and ground the other side on the chassis. If I do the same test with the EGR wire (the black-yellow wire) that we are supposed to connect the wiring for the solenoids power too; it has about .5 volts with the car running and it never changes through engine revs (I reved it to 5k while testing it.) The diagram Groomz posted shows a wire connecting the negative side of the hobbs, to each solenoid, and then to the negative side of the EGR circuit - is that the black-yellow wire? What about the positive side of the circuit; what does it connect to? Should the negative wire to the switch and solenoids be grounded and then the positive one connected to the EGR wire; if so what should change once I rev it over 4k RPM's? Nothing changed when I tested it or I'd have tried that. I already hooked it up wrong and fried the positive wire from the MPI fuse at the battery through the MPI relay to the connector within an inch of it's life so I'm leary about hooking it up wrong again and buying more $4 20 amp MPI fuses.

I have very limited knowledge of electronics so bare with me if there is an obvious solution I'm missing. If anyone has just a good picture of how they wired this to the EGR circuit that would likely help. One final question; do the solenoids have a positive and negative side? They seem to work either way.

 

[blue1]

The solenoids do have a + and - terminal. Also the EGR system doesn,t work until you are at engine operating temp ( i am pretty sure) thats why there's only a residual current of .5 there when you checked. warm up the engine and try with your meter again. The hobbs switch is just that a switch + and - dont matter just the soleniods will. good luck keep us posted!

 

[Xenocide]

Good call - my engine likely wasn't warmed up. Should I hook the ground from the solenoids to the EGR wire, or should I hook the positive to it?

I like your Triton setup; that is sweet!

 

[blue1]

See which way the power flows from that wire! it may earth out when it actuates, connect meter up as you did before if still nothing happens, try + battery to one side of meter and touch EGR wire then, Also go back through the archives of the DSM chat forums there is a massive thread on the cyclone on there because the groomz vacuum plumbing doesn't seem right! one of the solenoid should actuate and one should vent to allow the butterfly actuator to close again when you back off!! have a search it was a long time ago 12 months?? and it is explianed a bit better. Must go to work now good luck!! Paul.

 

[Xenocide]

Thanks for the help! I'll test it tonight and see what works while the engine is still warm (if it grounds out or what.)

 

[98spyderboost]

I want to get a better intake. Asthetics is the real reason But I want to make sure I dont hinder myself down the road. I kinda like the look of the cyclones. But I want to make sure I'm upgrading here. Whats the difference in the ones that say "Cyclone" on the upper mani, and the one that says ECI? Is this an upgrade or a downgrade from my stock 2g mani? What problems might i run into with installing this intake? I did search I just want fresh opinions

 

[4geze63]

the order or worst manifold to best goes like this

2g manifold---worst
1g (that says ecu) middle
1g (cyclone) best

even the (ECU) manifold is ahell of alot better then the stock 2g. The cyclone is even better yet. This topic has been disscused alot, just search "cyclone" in the search bar.

You would also have o upgrade to a 1g throttle body, with the combo of the 2 you should see some decent gaines over the current set-up.

 

[98spyderboost]

Cool, thats what I had gathered but alot of ppl are selling the EFI plenum manifolds as Cyclones. I guess thats just something to watch out for huh...

 

[highboosted98]

I thought both 1g`s are the same, Just "cyclone" is found on jdm engines

 

[98spyderboost]

????? I like the one that says "cyclone" Is this a worth while upgrade? Will the plenum support whatever i want to throw on?

 

[Catbox_95]

I don't recommend just throwing a 1g intake onto a 2g head. Have you seen the difference in port size? The 1g intake is 3/8" larger than the 2g head. If you bolt it on, you will create a 3/8" wall that will kill your performance.

In order to make a 1g intake work better than a 2g, you have to either use a 1g head also, or port the 2g head port to the 1g intake port size.

I'm in the process of doing this as we speak.

 

[4geze63]

the cyclone flows more then the ECU 1g manifold i believe, different/better runner design.

some of the connections on the cyclone manifold will be in different places, porting of the head would also be required like mentioned above, or even better yet, swap in a 1g head

 

[98spyderboost]

And A leads to B leads to C

"For now" I could setup the cyclone on a 2g head if i port and gasket match it, right? I would think this would still be a gain over mine... What do yall think?

 

[Catbox_95]

Yes, you would have to gasket match it. But like I said, you have to cut 3/8" off of each port. This isn't something you are going to be able to do with the head bolted on the car. You'll have to remove the head.

 

[Catbox_95]

Yes, you would have to gasket match it. But like I said, you have to cut 3/8" off of each port. This isn't something you are going to be able to do with the head bolted on the car. You'll have to remove the head.

Here's a picture of what I'm working on right now with my car.

 

[CanadianTSi]

Wow that's a lot of material.

The cyclone manifold sacrifices top end for better low end torque BTW.

 

[98spyderboost]

Good pic! Do you have one from a little higher angle? Does the lip just need to be ported out or is the entire journal that size? I just did the valve cover gasket the other day, i can reuse that set when i get ready to take everything back off right? It looked really sturdy. Anyways, from what I'm gathering the only things i will need to do is port the head and match up the vac hoses and such in the new locations, right... Sounds like a perfect weekend project for Christmas. Please keep me posted on your project man. Looks like im bout to go through the same thing.

 

[98spyderboost]

Nevermind that question about the lip. Stupid.... Sorry...

 

[Catbox_95]

Here's some more pics. You have to port more than just the very opening. The further back you port, the more free the air will flow. Don't get too carried away and port the walls too thin though.

This whole project began for me when I burned a valve. Actually I didn't know what the problem was, other than I had no compression in cylinder #4, so I pulled the head and found a burnt valve. And then as someone mentioned earlier, A leads to B, leads to C, etc. And so now here I am, $1,000 later and 2 lbs. worth of aluminum shavings!

I have finished porting and polishing the head and it is now in a shop getting a 3-angle valve job. I should have it back Tuesday. In the meantime, I am massaging the ports on the 1g intake, cleaning up the intake and throttle body, and trying to order a 1g throttle body elbow. A small, cheap part but necessary none-the-less and I forgot to order one. So don't forget this part while you order your parts.

 

[lowridin2g]

In the meantime, I am massaging the ports on the 1g intake, cleaning up the intake and throttle body, and trying to order a 1g throttle body elbow. A small, cheap part but necessary none-the-less and I forgot to order one. So don't forget this part while you order your parts.

i really hope your not going to use a 1g tb elbow. its so restrictive and a 2g elbow would bolt right up. maybe you mean a 1g tb?

 

[Catbox_95]

No, I meant a 1g elbow. A 1g throttle body is 60mm, whereas a 2g throttle body is 52mm. The 2g elbow is also 52mm. Are you saying that a 52mm elbow going into a 60mm throttle body is better flowing? I fail to see that logic. The only difference in a 1g elbow and a 2g elbow is the 1g is 60mm and the 2g is 52mm.

The 1g elbow is better.

Oh yeah - forgot to mention that I am using a 1g throttle body.

 

[lowridin2g]

i am aware of all of this as i have a 1g tb on my car, and i have a 1g tb elbow in my basement, it bottlenecks down to like an inch and a half, port out the 2g elbow to match the intake mani opening. trust me the 1g elbow is junk. why do u think 1g guys are always looking for 2g elbows?

 

[Catbox_95]

It doesn't look like the 2g elbow can be ported out to the 60mm. Is there enough meet there to cut it out that big?

 

[4geze63]

alot of 1gs use 2g elbows