Please help with Cyclone

[SpoolnTsi]

Thought they had a higher compression ratio???

 

[MC23]

Thanks guys! I think i will stick with what i got, cause i will probly be running high boost anyway. Thanks

 

[ken inn]

the vacuum cannister is absolutely imperative to the operation. not only does it hold the butterflies closed, it also dampens out the pulses and makes the operation much smoother. to see this, install a vacuum gauge to the intake. under normal driving conditions, the needle on the gauge bounces around all over the place. this means the butterflies will also be bouncing all over the place, opening and closing, flapping like real butterfly wings. now, if you tap into the actuator line coming off the vacuum cannister, the needle only moves when the hobbs switch is activated. also, it moves much slower, so the transition is smooth; the butterflies dont just slam open. in actual operation, i cannot tell when it transitions.

 

[sytrus]

I have stumbled across a cyclone turbo intake manifold for VERY cheap...want to know if it would be worth the money to buy. It is at 300 dollars right now.

 

[SpoolnTsi]

$300 for a cyclone manifold?? Thats outrageous :thumbdown Got mine for $50 with everything needed for the runners to function properly

 

[killab443]

damn 300! I think you can pickup an evo cyclone manifold for that much, HUUUUGE ganes on that mother

 

[zross1]

Don't get it even if it's $20. Stick with what you have. You won't see any performance improvements except for maybe a little (when I say little I mean very little) gain on top end if any--and your bottom end will suffer as well. A lot of people who buy jdm motors will throw away the cyclone intake manifold and put on the intake manifold that you already have now because the cyclone manifold has dual runners that our ecu's don't know how to control and you have to pin them open...it's just a mess.

 

[killab443]

I thought the cyclone was good for low end. the usdm outflows it top end

 

[Tevenor]

I thought the cyclone was good for low end. the usdm outflows it top end

There is barely any difference between a cyclone top end flow and a stock 1G intake manifold flow. However on the low end, assuming you have the butterfly valves working correctly, there is a considerable decrease in spool time.

 

[ken inn]

the us stock intake will outflow the cyclone at wot by about 2 cfm. yippee. where you will feel a gain is low and mid range. it pulls much better. you will see a pretty good fuel economy increase, about 3 mpg at cruise. 300 bucks is WAAAY too much. 50 bucks, and make sure you get the blue/white cannister. the coil packs and ign wires and the output transistor all mount differently, if you can get them too, it is a lot easier to make it work. i have had one on the car for 3+ years, and i like it. however, it has no egr, and you should be prepared to make gaskets for it, cause more than likely you will have to remove it some time in it's life, and the easiest way to remove it is to disassemble it.

 

[killab443]

i think the usdm flows like 3 more cfm top end not a big difference at all. alls I know is that the jdm motor has 220hp with it and with the usdm manifold it has 195hp. take your pick.

 

[Tevenor]

i think the usdm flows like 3 more cfm top end not a big difference at all. alls I know is that the jdm motor has 220hp with it and with the usdm manifold it has 195hp. take your pick.

That's primarily octane differences.

 

[killab443]

really how high of octane can you get from a pump in ###? silly ? wondering if u know

 

[ken inn]

really how high of octane can you get from a pump in ###? silly ? wondering if u know

well, japan has 98 octane fuel. and, the jdm vr4's came in 3 different hp ranges, 205, 215, and 240. also, they ran much larger intercoolers. the 240 hp car also had larger piping, 55mm vs 45mm, and slightly larger intercooler, internally finned. i had this setup on my car, i still use the intercooler. so, the timing and fuel maps were way more aggressive than us cars. also, the higher hp cars came with 16g and big 16g turbos, and 510cc injectors. the intercooler/piping alone makes a huge difference.

 

[zross1]

My bad--I had things backwards. I meant to say little bottom end gain, loss of top end. I've had one on my car for 2 years I should have this right by now.

 

[Diplomat]

Cyclone Intake Manifold = Underhood dress up item.

However, back when I was shopping for cars (before I knew anything about DSM's) I saw one being sold that had a JDM Cyclone motor in it. I was like,"Damn. That thing must be nice.". I didn't know better. Of course, this is largely due to the fact that I was introduced to the modified import seen by a bunch of Honda lovers. They don't talk to me anymore. Sore losers.

 

[Talon34Tsi]

hey i got a 4g63 cyclone motor for my 1g talon i was wondering what is all different and what different vac. line i need to worry about i also have the computer for it should i change it out and will it hoock up. thanks Jeff

 

[igopoopy]

http://dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=109763
plz do a search

 

[Defiant]

It's not a Cyclone MOTOR, it's just a Cyclone INTAKE MANIFOLD.

If you have a very small dinghy, they make good anchors.

Otherwise, use it to troll for a sucker on eBay.

I've heard of four people who've run it successfully. And it wasn't worth the bother to them, either.

 

[Deathmug]

I’ve got a cyclone intake manifold.
It’s pretty fast once you get it over about 3K RPMs, but is slow coming out of a stop. It bucks a little bit, until the turbo starts to spool.

 

[deusxmachina]

I don't know what's so hard to understand about cyclone intake manifolds. They are for all intents and purposes exactly the same at WOT as the US intake. They DO provide more torque when the second runners are closed and DO spool even a little 16g about 200rpms sooner than normal. Whether it's worth the bother to hook it up correctly is up to the individual. The Cyclone is clearly "better" than the US intake in that it is capable of (a little) more. But it takes more effort to hook up properly. Seems like most people who bash cyclones have never even seen one in person, much less run one.

To the original poster: same crap, different name.

Deathmug, you need the original white vacuum canister or make your own similar vacuum valve. The transition of the butterflies opening is what causes the bucking, so you need the stored air in the line provided by the canister.

 

[Xenocide]

I have a couple questions regarding the solenoid and wiring of this procedure. I'm basing this mostly off of Groomzs' diagram above. I have the manifold, the vacume cannister, the BCS, and am getting the cyclone coil and pressure switch, but have a few more "issues" that I'd appreciate some help on.

Question 1
What or where is the Purge "charcoal cannister purge" solenoid; can someone post a picture? I've searched for it here and on my DSM CD and can't find information on it. I've also seen it listed as the "fuel purge solenoid" in other postings and I haven't found that either. What name would it be refererd to on the backup CD? Also, if you have stock emissions on the car, do you need a seperate solenoid to do this for you or can you use a factory solenoid that is still in use?

Question 2
Where do you tap into the EGR circuit; can somone possibly upload a picture or describe that? I'm guessing there are some wires we can tap into on the firewall somewhere, but does someone have a color code for the wire and a location at least?

Thanks in advance!

 

[uvbneclipsed]

Thanks for the information hopefully I can get the setup to work on my EVO 3.

Thanks again,

Derek

 

[uvbneclipsed]

thank you for the information provided, hopefully I can execute everything so my evo 3 runs perfect.


Thanks again,

Derek

 

[bruinlax22]

after lookin around for a while for upgrades for my 1.8L gs....i pretty much decided that im going to swap for the 4G63T Turbo Cyclone engine, i found the motor on totaljdm.com
http://www.totaljdm.com/index.cfm/f...jdm_engines.htm

it comes with the distributor, intake manifold, exhaust manifold, alternator, All-Wheel-Drive transmission, and the turbo. Since my car is front wheel drive and that im pretty sure that the motor work with the FWD, i guess i'd sell the AWD tranny. now here is where i need someones help...what else will i need besides whats included for the swap? where could i get it installed and installed the right way so i dont have to worry about it? how much for the installation? how much after all said and done? i would REALLY appreciate any info/feedback/suggestions/etc. Thanks 4 your time....