Please help with Cyclone

[thekellbeast]

The longer runners are better for lower RPM's, but I don't know when you want to switch over. I don't know of anyone runing the JDM ecu, but there's a tech article (maybe it's a thread, I dunno) about making the switchover controlled by boost. I'm pretty sure that's the way the JDM ecu does it. Some people say it's better to controll it by rpm, because if you're in a higher rpm, but not building boost, you want the shorter, fatter, runners open. I don't have any personal experience though.

 

[thekellbeast]

Here's the thread I was thinking of. There's a lot more good info out there. I don't want to sound like a dick, but the search button IS your friend.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=105746&highlight=groomz+cyclone

 

[Liquid Illusion]

Cyclone intake manifold thread Number 5,345,625

 

[killab443]

Just some questions about the cyclone manifold


1. If the white canister was not hooked up what runner would be in use at all times, the short or the long?

2. What does the white canister do?

 

[NOSNUSE]

Shot LORDPAXIN a PM he has delt with this problem before, although before warned that if I were you I would dump that "crapclone" intake in favor of a nice 1g intake, but that's just me.

 

[HondaKiller]

I second that, more trouble than it's worth.

 

[00 Agent]

I second that, more trouble than it's worth.

I agree...I have one and figured out how to contoll it but still ditched it for the stock 1g manifold. For all the trouble it will only help a little in the low-mid rpms (and that's if you learn to conroll it really well) and restrict you some in the top-end.

 

[boosting1G]

I have searched for over an hour and a half and found nothing yet so here I go.

A friend has asked me to put his cyclone motor into his 90 Eclipse GSX and make it run. I was wondering if it is possible to seal off the vacume ports on the manifold for the butterflies and remove them. Has anyone tried this? I would hate to tell him that he has to get another intake manifold or a bunch of other parts to make it work. I just need a little input. He doesnt care about the manifold either, he just wants it done as cheap as possible.

Thank a lot for your help.

 

[Defiant]

THERE IS NO "CYCLONE MOTOR".

It's JUST the manifold. NO MOTOR.

You could remove the butterflies, but you'd be better-off to just get an intake manifold. They're hardly in short supply.

And although it's apparently possible to make the Cyclone work, the payoff is too piddly to make it worth the exertion.

 

[boosting1G]

I sais cyclone motor so that everyone knows what I am speaking of to make it easier. this way I dont have to type out 15 other words just so I can get my point acrossed.

But thank you for the help.

 

[DSM_GSX4life]

Would there be any benifit at all to put a cyclone intake manifold on a regular 4g63... just wondering???

 

[DSM_GSX4life]

nevermind.... i read the tech articles.

 

[illeagle_talon]

I bought a cyclone intake manifold off of a JDM GVR4 intending to install it myself. However I've heard that just to take off the stock manifold and bolt in the cyclone is a pretty arduous task. I've also read the cyclone manifold install tech article about getting the cyclone wired right without the help of the JDM ECU but I've heard that it's way too much of a hassle than it's worth so I figured I'd just have the runners open the whole time. So anyone out there please give me kind of a difficulty rating on the cyclone istall and how to keep the runners open the whole time. Any help would be much appreciated.

 

[Defiant]

Nah, don't bother. If you aren't going to use the butterfly setup, just stay stock. There's minimal benefit on the low end with the butterflies closed, and just a little less on the top end when they're open.

 

[sirhcs 4g63]

i agree with Defiant. the cyclone intake without the proper setup only gets you style points with those "jdm" fanatics. my personal favorites are the ones who say they have 2g jdm parts when there is no such thing. the japanese market didn't have anything close to a 2g car, rather they had a fairly stylish but poor performing car in the fto. that car used a 6 cylinder and nothing comparable to the 4g63 at all.

if you want an intake that will make a difference, check out magnus motorsports' intake manifold. 42whp just by bolting that bad boy on and it's got major style points.

 

[91vr4evolution]

Yeah, there's not much point without the butterflys working. I have recently pulled my working cyclone off my JDM VR4, and replaced it with the "normal" manifold. I can definitely notice the loss of low down torque, but as I was after more top-end performance I consider the trade-off acceptable.

As for no "2g JDM parts", well that's not entirely correct. They had the Evo 1, 2 and 3 Lancers, which are all 4g63s', and are 7 bolt blocks (which apparently don't suffer from crankwalk.) They all use a 2g style AFM. The exhaust manifold is similar to a 2g, and they have smaller intake ports than a VR4 (similar to the 1g vs 2g heads), and a different style of intake manifold. If someone were using 510cc yellow injectors, they could claim to be using JDM "2g" parts (that said though, the last of the JDM 4g63 VR4s also had 510cc injectors, so their "2g" could be a "1g" part. )

Mike.

 

[h22turboteg]

i'm in the process of putting this manifold on a kids car (98 gst). he blew up the motor, so ordered up a 7bolt out of a older jdm gsx(obd1). Anyways he thought that this mani was goin to make more power. I'm usually a honda person, but i swap pretty much whatever, and i have the secondaries stock on my h22 and i think they hold it back. the tb and runner openings and such look a lot bigger than the stock gst ones so i figured it'd be worth swaping on. Is it worth putting on?

 

[ken inn]

first off, the cyclone has no provision for egr. if your state inspection looks for egr, forget it. dunno about the t/e/l, but on the galant, the cyclone will NOT clear the a/c lines. some say you an bend the lines, i tried it, and freon escaped. there is only 1 bolt holding each line to the compressor. i rotated the coil about 20 deg, ground off one boss, redrilled a hole in the coil bracket. 2 of 3 bolts hold it to the manifold, and it looks factory. your ign wires will not reach. i had kingsborne make me a set. if you call them, tell them you want the 1g t/e/l cyclone wires. if you use the cyclone surge tank bracket, you must grind the hell out of it to get it to clear the a/c compressor. if you are not careful, it will cut the power line to the clutch. there are 2 long studs holding the middle(cyclone is in 3 pieces) part to the piece that bolts to the head. if you ever need to remove the intake, it is a supreme bi*** to get at, i just disassemble it. if you think you will ever disassemble it, you need to replace those 2 studs with bolts, or it will never clear the a/c compressor. i have been running the cyclone for a couple of years, i use 2 solenoids, a hobbs pressure switch, and the blue/white cannister to control the butterflies. i like it. the stock intake will outflow the cyclone at wot by about 2 cfm. yippee.

 

[TALONFACE]

The intake on my car is crackin for some reason and i need a new one, i was woundering if the cyclone intake was worth the extra money? Is it a direct bolt-on, and do all the hose's match up, can anyone tell me some pros and cons if they have one, or know someone that does? yout advice would be very help full!!!

 

[Eliteracingghmi]

I considered it for a while, but I remember hearing something about having to do some conversions and tuning with your fuel system. That was really the only turn-off to me

 

[Defiant]

No.

Please search.

We're not doing this yet again.

 

[h22turboteg]

Alright this is going to be a long one so bare with me. Did a swap for a friend, he has a 97 gst that he blew the motor up in. He bought another 7bolt motor, said it was from a jdm galant. The thing is, is that the jdm motor doesn't have all of the sensors that the gst's motor does. Ok, so i swap the trannies because the jdm motor had an all wheel drive tranny. He wanted to put on this cyclone intake mani and tb so i did that. I did the vaccum line elimination(egr,fuel press,boost, and the other 2) because the cyclone TB didn't have all the vaccum ports. i hooked up the secondaires, fpr, wastegate, and bov to the manifold. The jdm motor had the cam sensor on the timing belt side with a totally different plug, so i had to put the gsts on, which involved swapping intake cams so that the gsts sensor would screw into the cam on the tranny side. I had to take the 2 oil press. sensors off the gsts motor and put them on the jdm motor. swaped the o2 sensors (jdm was only 2 wire.) swapped knock sensors, just in case. also put a 1g bov on

now i started it up today and it runs roughas hell (sounds like its runninon 3cylinders)but then sounds clean when you rev it, the mounts are all perfect, but the motor shakes like its running really hard and low rpms like 500ish sometimes stalls out. also when i rev it up past 4k it stays there, and its not the throttle cable. I've messed with the adjustment screw on the TB and it doesn't help. when i remove vaccum from the bov and rev it up, it kinda bogs, then revs up fine, but its kinda slow coming back done. I'm hella lost, i've tried t'ing the vaccum line from the wastegate and the fpr and it stays rev'd at 4k or a little higher. also tried the vaccum port on the TB and it stay'd rev'd. Any help or ideas is greatly appreciated, i can get pics of whatever if you need them

 

[h22turboteg]

its not the timing, just checked

 

[h22turboteg]

anything guys, just need some ideas

 

[JessesTalon]

major boost leak?