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pksystems 97 Talon TSi AWD

Rating:
5/5,
Year:
1997
Model/Trim:
Eagle Talon TSi AWD
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  1. pksystems

    pksystems Proven Member

    203
    119
    Joined Nov 9, 2003
    Calgary, AB, Canada
    Painted the exhaust manifold, and hotside of turbo with Rustoleum BBQ paint.

    turbo.jpg

    Made a new upper heat shield out of some scrap mild steel. I need to trim the front bottom edge to shape, whenever I find a lower shield. It will look much better, after I blast off the rest of the zinc coating, and paint it with BBQ paint. I made stainless o2 sensor wire standoffs out of some large SS hose clamps. They will bolt on into the three threaded holes. I will use a layer of fiberglass heat wrap between the exhaust manifold and the heat shield.

    shield.jpg

    Installed front axles. Installed clutch slave cylinder. Installed starter.

    Finished modifying downpipe. I first test fitted the downpipe with the driveshaft to ensure I wouldn't have any issues with flange placement. I then sliced a section off the end, and used the jig I made previously to align the flanges in the proper locations/angles. The piece that I removed is now a test pipe. I picked up a cheap stainless 3" free flowing Yonaka cat off ebay awhile ago. It's not welded properly, but it will be fine. I used 100% argon with stainless mig wire, so the bead is pretty tall/ugly.

    cat.jpg

    This downpipe didn't have much room for my wideband sensor. The directions state 24" downstream from the turbo on the upper portion of the pipe. This placed it right before the flex section on my pipe. I mounted it on the very top, which places it just under the rearward flange of the oil pan, infront of the axle. It is a pretty tight fit, so I would need to drop the downpipe to change the sensor.

    Cleaned up and painted Apexi N1/downpipe. I was going to black out the stainless garbage can on the end, but figured it's nice thick stainless, and would look like crap if the black ever gets scrapped off. The stainless portion of this exhaust is showing no signs of corrosion, so the paint is just to protect the mild steel sections.

    exh.jpg

    Marked notches at every joint on the driveshaft with a diamond bit in a rotary tool, and broke it down into pieces. Cleaned them up, and painted them with gloss black tremclad. The driveshaft will be getting new yoke/u-joints/carrier bearings when I reassemble it. The old grease in the lobro joint looked a bit dirty, so I cleaned it all out, and will repack it with fresh grease when I reassemble everything. Since the temps have already dropped to 5C, these are drying in my basement. Some masking has already been removed.

    driveshaft.jpg
     
    Last edited: Sep 11, 2016

    5K  25

    1997 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
    awd · manual · 2G DSM
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  2. kmetiuk

    kmetiuk Proven Member

    361
    120
    Joined Mar 10, 2010
    Edmonton, AB, Canada
    Awesome build man. Your attention to detail is outstanding.

    :)
     

    Road Race Build 1K  1

    1997 Eagle Talon N/T
    manual · 2G DSM
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  3. pksystems

    pksystems Proven Member

    203
    119
    Joined Nov 9, 2003
    Calgary, AB, Canada
    Painted test pipe, and O2 housing with BBQ paint.

    02.jpg

    Reassembled driveshaft with new joints, and repacked the lobro joint with new grease. Reinstalled the driveshaft with Torque Solutions urethane bushings.

    driveshaft.jpg

    Drilled new 12.9 socket cap turbo bolts for use with lock wire.

    turbo_bolts.jpg

    Found the last missing splash shield for my car. NOS off ebay. No longer available MB908261.

    splash_shield.jpg
     
    Last edited: Sep 11, 2016

    5K  25

    1997 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
    awd · manual · 2G DSM
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  4. pksystems

    pksystems Proven Member

    203
    119
    Joined Nov 9, 2003
    Calgary, AB, Canada
    Wrapped the water pipe with DEI Titanium heat wrap, and installed the pipe. The wrap should help keep coolant temps down a bit since it runs right behind the exhaust/turbo after it exits the radiator.

    I didn't realize earlier that the tube near the alternator was for a water cooled oil cooler, so I left it on. Now that I started playing around with coolant lines I noticed I should have sealed it up. Pulled the water pipe, carefully wrapped it in some rags, and chopped that tube shorter. Crushed it a bit with some vise grips, and then tapped it to the nearest size bolt I could find (1/4"). Cleaned up/vacuumed out all metal shavings and installed the bolt permanently with JBWeld.

    its_a_wrap.jpg

    Went to install the exhaust manilfold, but ran into an issue. I was test fitting everything with the cracked evo manifold, and when I went to install the painted 2g it didn't fit. Apparently the 2g exhaust manifolds don't fit with the 6-bolt powersteering bracket. I had to slice off ~1/8" of the side edge of the manifold next to the PS bracket. Touched up the paint on the manifold with some brushable high temp tremclad paint. Installed the manifold with oem 4 layer gasket.

    manifold.jpg
     
    Last edited: Sep 25, 2016

    5K  25

    1997 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
    awd · manual · 2G DSM
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  5. pksystems

    pksystems Proven Member

    203
    119
    Joined Nov 9, 2003
    Calgary, AB, Canada
    Cleaned up the turbo. The turbine wheel looked dry, and the turbo had very little movement. There was some oily dirt around the center section, so I cleaned it up, and pulled the chra. I ran some water through the coolant passages, and then some clean oil through the oil passages. No chunks on the insides. :)

    This is supposed to be an Evo3 big16G. The coldside is powdercoated black tho, so you can't see the non-raised serial number. The hotside casting says 78-13700 which is supposed to be an Evo3. The compressor wheel looks the same as my backup Evo1 Big16G (49178-01450)

    The seller also said he thinks it's been clipped. I don't really care either way, but does this look clipped?

    turbo_top.jpg

    turbo_side.jpg

    Finished assembling the turbo.

    turbo01.jpg
     
    Last edited: Sep 17, 2016

    5K  25

    1997 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
    awd · manual · 2G DSM
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  6. pksystems

    pksystems Proven Member

    203
    119
    Joined Nov 9, 2003
    Calgary, AB, Canada
    Installed turbo, o2 housing and downpipe.

    turbo_assembly.jpg
     

    5K  25

    1997 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
    awd · manual · 2G DSM
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  7. pksystems

    pksystems Proven Member

    203
    119
    Joined Nov 9, 2003
    Calgary, AB, Canada
    Changed my plans for the powersteering line tuck.

    I was originally going to run them under the AC compressor, and over the front axle with some sort of bracket. To further complicate things, I'm keeping the inner splash shield. Every tuck I've seen that puts the lines under the frame rails doesn't use the shield. After playing around with it for like 5 hours I decided it wasn't going to work. Much easier to just run them where the old ABS lines used to run, just under the drivers side motor mount next to all the belts. There is attachment points on both sides of the strut tower, to secure the lines so they won't rub. Unfortunately I messed up the angle on the second of the two 90 degree fittings, so I'll be redoing the high pressure line in the next couple days.

    After I test fitted the lines and saw I was heading directly towards the powersteering pump, I also changed how I was connecting to the pump. I was going to use an adapter on the end of the PS flex line, and then connect to the Aeroquip Teflon line. I chopped off the crimped on flexible portion of the OEM line, and welded a AN-6 fitting to the end.

    OEM PS pump flex line cut. The OEM line shrinks way down as it goes into the flex line.

    ps_fitting.jpg


    I'm using Aeroquip Startlite hose for the return (low pressure) line. One end has a swivel. Teflon high pressure lines do not.

    ps_return.jpg

    Powdercoated some parts. Hangars for the powersteering lines, Engine lift brackets, Alternator heat shield and modified powersteering pump connector.

    pcoat_parts.jpg
     

    5K  25

    1997 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
    awd · manual · 2G DSM
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  8. pksystems

    pksystems Proven Member

    203
    119
    Joined Nov 9, 2003
    Calgary, AB, Canada
    Made high pressure power steering line. Aeroquip An-6 teflon line. To help save the paint on the car, and make the line a bit more stealthy I put a black nylon braided sleeve over the line, and heat shrinked the ends.

    high_pressure_PS.jpg

    Installed both lines under the motor mount, and secured them with some of the original ABS line brackets. They are attached at the front and rear of the strut tower, on the firewall, and the low pressure is secured to the frame rail as it goes under the car to the cooler. The pictures make it look like the line is alot closer to the belts then it is.

    ps_rear.jpg
    ps_front.jpg

    Installed alternator heat shield and front engine lift bracket.
     
    Last edited: Sep 27, 2016

    5K  25

    1997 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
    awd · manual · 2G DSM
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  9. pksystems

    pksystems Proven Member

    203
    119
    Joined Nov 9, 2003
    Calgary, AB, Canada
    Re-tapped the 1/8 BSPT port (the one that is usually plugged) on the thermostat housing to 1/8 NPT for my Autometer water temp gauge. Put permatex teflon sealant on threads of all ports on thermostat housing.

    Started installing various parts so I can make my fuel lines/catch can mounts.

    Charcoal canister
    Battery tray
    Heater hoses
    Fuel filter

    Started securing/installing wiring harness.

    parts.jpg

    Made hardline to fuel filter section of fuel line. Fragola Real-Street teflon lined stainless braided. I covered it with a black nylon braid the same as my powersteering line.

    fuel_hose.jpg
     

    5K  25

    1997 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
    awd · manual · 2G DSM
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  10. pksystems

    pksystems Proven Member

    203
    119
    Joined Nov 9, 2003
    Calgary, AB, Canada
    Made an EGR blockoff plate out of 1/4" scrap aluminum.

    If using the OEM fuel filter, the hardline is secured to the firewall. I'm using a AN-6 adapter on the hardline, and I didn't like how the hardline was able to flop around, so I made a bracket to secure it.

    Powdercoated some parts: 2G fuel rail, fuel hardline bracket, EGR Blockoff, Fuel rail AN adapters and one of the throttle cable brackets (can't find the other)

    coated.jpg
     

    5K  25

    1997 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
    awd · manual · 2G DSM
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  11. pksystems

    pksystems Proven Member

    203
    119
    Joined Nov 9, 2003
    Calgary, AB, Canada
    Painted heat shields with BBQ paint.

    heat_shields.jpg

    Made and installed turbo oil return. An-10 Startlite hose with 90, and straight fittings.

    oil_return.jpg

    Installed lower heat shield. A couple of the mount points were missing some metal, so I used stainless fender washers to help hold the shield in place. Made a fiberglass heat wrap liner for the upper shield. I bought 40 feet of heat wrap years ago, and figured it should help contain some of the heat. I dunno how long staples will last, but once the upper shield is installed, it's not going anywhere.

    FG_wrap.jpg
     
    Last edited: Oct 4, 2016

    5K  25

    1997 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
    awd · manual · 2G DSM
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  12. pksystems

    pksystems Proven Member

    203
    119
    Joined Nov 9, 2003
    Calgary, AB, Canada
    Lock wired the turbo, and then installed the FG liner/upper shield. First time I've ever safety wired anything, and I used vice grips. I'll probably pull off the shield after I've driven it for a couple months and see how it's holding up.

    tie_wire.jpg

    upper_shield.jpg
     

    5K  25

    1997 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
    awd · manual · 2G DSM
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  13. boostdawd

    boostdawd Supporting Member

    1,149
    304
    Joined Apr 6, 2010
    phoenix, Arizona
    Looking good. Let us know what kind of underhood temps your seeing after she's complete!
     

    Street Build 602  1

    1997 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
    awd · automatic · 2G DSM

    Drag Race Build 4K  10

    1991 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
    manual · 1G DSM
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  14. ThunderChild

    ThunderChild Supporting VIP

    2,525
    686
    Joined Jan 5, 2012
    Rathdrum, Idaho
    Looking good man, build is great!
    Dunno if anyone responded (didn't see one myself), but the turbine doesn't look to be clipped, tho im no expert.
     

    Street Build 166  3

    1990 Plymouth Laser N/T
    fwd · manual · 1G DSM

    267  8

    1987 Toyota Pickup/Hilux
    awd · manual · Misc Vehicles

    Street Build 808  7

    1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse Spyder GST
    fwd · manual · 2G DSM

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    1992 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
    manual · 1G DSM

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    1992 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
    awd · manual · 1G DSM
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  15. pksystems

    pksystems Proven Member

    203
    119
    Joined Nov 9, 2003
    Calgary, AB, Canada
    De-blinged the mishimoto radiator.

    Scuffed all the areas that would be visible with a stainless brush, cleaned it a couple times, and left it to dry. It's already snowing, so this took awhile. After it was dry, I gave it a couple coats of Zinc Chromate primer, let that dry for 45min, then gave it a couple coats of eastwood satin black radiator paint. The giant M isn't visible with the naked eye, but my camera did a great job of finding it. I only painted the end tanks on the front of the radiator. I will be stealing the flex-a-lite radiator fans from my ESi and using them on this car.

    M.jpg
    mishimoto.jpg

    Did the punishment racing FMIC the exact same way. I'm tempted to make a Hoonigan stencil and paint that diagonally across the FMIC in orange.

    fmic.jpg

    Cleaned up and primered the 1G intake, and the wiper arms the same way. Painted them with Tremclad semi-gloss black. The cap color looked alot closer to flat/satin black so this is a fair bit shinier then I wanted.

    intake.jpg
     
    Last edited: Oct 9, 2016

    5K  25

    1997 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
    awd · manual · 2G DSM
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  16. pksystems

    pksystems Proven Member

    203
    119
    Joined Nov 9, 2003
    Calgary, AB, Canada
    While reinstalling the harness, I found a couple wires I didn't like the looks of. The 4 white wires coming off of the positive terminal on the battery all look too short, and the end of the wire that runs from positive to the starter is pretty ugly. Before I start burying the harness in intake piping I'm going to swap out the wires in question.

    The four white wires that come off the positive battery post are labelled AWS-5. I thought it was 5GA, but it's actually 5mm which is between 8-9 gauge. I'm going to run one 4GA wire for each pair. Originally the end inside the fuse box had both pairs of white wires crimped together, so they ran 2 sets of thinner wires. One of the pairs of wires had an OEM piece of ~12ga wire spliced into the middle of one of the pairs. It is connected to the 20A COND. FAN. I don't plan on doing a splice on my new cable, so I'm going to extend the wire, and crimp it into the end that secures in the fuse box.

    4 Gauge welding wire. Made in USA. Crimped on fittings, and then soldered them. Sealed them in heatshrink. I added ~5" to the length so it won't be so tight.

    Battery_cable.jpg
     

    5K  25

    1997 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
    awd · manual · 2G DSM
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  17. pksystems

    pksystems Proven Member

    203
    119
    Joined Nov 9, 2003
    Calgary, AB, Canada
    While I was replacing the positive starter cable, I figured I might aswell make a whole new starter harness. Hot wire replaced with 4GA welding cable, ground wire replaced with 2GA. I added a bit of extra length to both so I can tuck the wires. If the end of the positive wire starts to look bad again, I can chop off some, tuck it back in the terminal, and it should still fit the car. I also made a new ground wire for the battery (2GA)

    I found some red heatshrink in the size I need for this large wire so I re-shrinked the ends of the fuse box cables with red. I also added some braided nylon sleeves for looks/protection.

    starter_harness.jpg
     
    Last edited: Oct 18, 2016

    5K  25

    1997 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
    awd · manual · 2G DSM
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  18. pksystems

    pksystems Proven Member

    203
    119
    Joined Nov 9, 2003
    Calgary, AB, Canada
    Adjusted the positioning of the main harness, and installed the starter harness.

    engine_fuel01.jpg
    engine_fuel02.jpg

    Loosely bolted in the intake manifold/fuel rail and made the last two fuel lines.

    fuel_lines.jpg

    Added ~14" of extra wire (7 wires spliced/soldered/heatshrinked) to the 2G harness to move the power transistor from the middle of the intake to the drivers side.

    Made a metal bracket so the injector section of the 2G harness will bolt to the 1G intake.
     

    5K  25

    1997 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
    awd · manual · 2G DSM
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  19. pksystems

    pksystems Proven Member

    203
    119
    Joined Nov 9, 2003
    Calgary, AB, Canada
    Gave my extreme psi braided clutch line the stealth treatment, and played around with routing to get it to the clutch slave cylinder. I'm running it an extra long route, behind the battery, and it is still too long. If I ran it the OEM route of the hardline it would probably be 1.5 feet too long. After I figured all the mounting points, I pulled it off and heatshrinked these areas. All my rubber coated hose clamps are made for M6 or smaller bolts (if you drill them bigger, they start to fall apart) so I made a bunch of larger brackets, and moved the rubber insulator to the new brackets.

    clutch_line.jpg

    I couldn't find a 1G coil pack bracket at the local auto wreckers, so I made one. What a waste of time :p
    I can't use the metal bracket I made to hold the harness on intake since it would hit the coil pack. Removed the plastic protective bracket, wrapped it in split loom and I will be doing a partial tuck under the fuel rail.

    My fuel pressure solenoid hit the 3G brake fluid reservoir, so I chopped ~1/4" out of the middle of the bracket, welded it back together and ground it flat. It now fits behind the reservoir. Not sure if I need the solenoid yet tho.

    Ran oil pressure gauge line following the factory harness to the oil filter housing. I'm dropping the dummy light to use an autometer gauge. The 6-bolt didn't come with the dummy light sensor. Soldered/heatshrinked a female spade connector onto the damaged factory oil gauge wire, and hooked it up. Ran water temp gauge line along main harness to the thermostat housing. I will have 2 boost gauges, 2 oil pressure gauges, 2 water temp gauges. One factory (fairly useless) and one aftermarket.

    Powdercoated some parts: diy coil pack bracket, diy power transistor bracket, the missing throttle cable bracket, hose clamps, intake pcv nipple and modded FPS bracket.

    parts.jpg

    Since it sounds like most of the charcoal canister function is removed when you do an EGR delete, I might aswell ditch the canister. The only reason I was keeping the canister was to keep fuel fumes from flooding my garage. The check valve does infact keep some of the fumes contained. If you blow through it, it needs a fair bit of force before it lets air through.

    Pulled the charcoal canister out. Pulled check valve off canister, and made a bracket to mount it under the battery tray with a longer piece of hose. Since the valve does let air go both ways, I will put a small breather filter on the end.
     
    Last edited: Oct 29, 2016

    5K  25

    1997 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
    awd · manual · 2G DSM
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  20. pksystems

    pksystems Proven Member

    203
    119
    Joined Nov 9, 2003
    Calgary, AB, Canada
    Charcoal canister delete complete. Fuel tank now has a filtered check valve on it. If the pressure of the fuel expanding builds up too much the check valve will let it burp out fumes. I made a couple L brackets to hold the check valve and filter in place to the original canister holes. The filter bracket is assembled between the barb fittings.

    OEM check valve
    Small 3/8-1/2" K&N breather filter
    Couple pieces of 1/4" rubber fuel hose
    1/4" barb to 1/4 NPT male
    3/8" barb to 1/4 NPT female
    2 small L brackets

    fuel_vent.jpg
     

    5K  25

    1997 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
    awd · manual · 2G DSM
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  21. pksystems

    pksystems Proven Member

    203
    119
    Joined Nov 9, 2003
    Calgary, AB, Canada
    Started trying to figure out where to mount my dual catch can setup. I believe I can fit one behind/under the fuse box, but there definitely isn't room for 2. I have lots of room where the charcoal canister used to sit.

    Made a bracket that hangs off of the lower section of the battery tray bracket. The L bracket section gets sandwiched between the main flat battery section and the lower support. I had to modify the shape a couple times to clear the a/c hose and to get the inlet facing a usable direction.

    The drain hangs down a couple inches above the passenger side axle. With the passenger wheel well splash shield not in place I can easily reach the ball valve from the side. We will see when I install the shield, but there is a couple holes in that side shield.

    I shortened the handle of the ball valve and drilled a couple holes in it. If my only access is beside the axle (directly under car), I can reach in with an allen key and open/close the valve. Powdercoated the handle orange, so it's easily visible from under the car. The catch can is secured to the bracket with 2 small screws (I used blue threadlocker) but I didn't want to put all my trust in those screws, so the zip-tie/lower tab is a backup.

    Bracket
    catch_can_mount.jpg

    Battery/catch can assembly
    catch_can.jpg

    Installed rear catch can. I added a length of silicone drain hose that hangs just below the bottom of the car. I don't think there is any worry of the hose getting caught on the axle, but I'm going to make a securing bracket that will tuck under the orange reinforcing plate. The ball valve handle looks alot closer to the axle then it is. Since I deleted the sight tube, the plan is to empty the catch can at every oil change. The cans hold about 350mL of fluid, without the stainless scrubbers, so the first couple drains, I'm going to measure how much fluid is captured. I can then estimate, how long I could drive till it's full, but it is very easy to empty the can with the valves.

    catch_can_installed.jpg

    Pulled the gangsta tint from the drivers window. I'll do the passenger side when I can access that side of the car.
     
    Last edited: Nov 3, 2016

    5K  25

    1997 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
    awd · manual · 2G DSM
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  22. pksystems

    pksystems Proven Member

    203
    119
    Joined Nov 9, 2003
    Calgary, AB, Canada
    Made and powdercoated front catch can mount. It tucks in just under/behind the fuse box. The catch can mounts to the bracket with 2 screws, and I'm using the same backup securing setup like the other can. A tab under the can, and a zip-tie to hold it in place if the screws ever back out. The bracket bolts to the main frame rail just infront of the transmission mount.

    catch_can_bracket.jpg

    catch_can_mounted.jpg

    Installed front catch can. The intake piping is loosely installed, but I don't think there will be any clearance issues with the catch can. The thermostat housing will be the issue. I will probably cut off all the extra BOV flange section.

    catch_can_installed.jpg

    I rerouted my clutch and EBC lines under the passenger motor mount (similar to OEM clutch hardline) to give the catch can some more room.
     
    Last edited: Nov 5, 2016

    5K  25

    1997 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
    awd · manual · 2G DSM
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  23. pksystems

    pksystems Proven Member

    203
    119
    Joined Nov 9, 2003
    Calgary, AB, Canada
    I will need an elbow to clear the transmission counter weight. In order to see how I can route the lower radiator hose, I loosely installed everything. Here's what I came up with to get the hose around the counter weight. I'm using new silicone hoses, so I went through my bin of old parts. Old upper S hose cut down to snake it's way down to the bottom of the radiator. I will use a metal tube, and join it onto the end of the unused lower silicone hose.

    The counter weight is as far towards the hose as it can be in the pictures. I believe that is first gear.

    lower_rad_hose01.jpg

    lower_rad_hose02.jpg


    I'm not sure my re-circulate BOV hose can make that tight of a bend. Hopefully it will, or I'll have another problem to solve.

    bov.jpg

    fmic.jpg

    I keep seeing posts all over the place saying the OEM fans fit the Mishimoto radiator, so I figured I'd test fit them. I'm assuming both my fans are the OEM fans for this car. They fit the plastic radiator that came with the car good. On the aluminum rad the drivers side won't cool the radiator at all, since it's ~1" away from the radiator (yellow arrow). The passenger fan hits the J-pipe (pink arrow).

    fans.jpg

    I already test fit these fans on the fluidyne radiator in my ESi, and when you switch which side you mount them on (420a engine is on other side) they fit exactly the same way. The plastic fan shroud fits good, but the metal one is just along for the ride. To remedy this, I will modify the OEM fans to fit in my ESI, and steal the Flex-a-lite 220's for this car.
     
    Last edited: Jan 23, 2017

    5K  25

    1997 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
    awd · manual · 2G DSM
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  24. pksystems

    pksystems Proven Member

    203
    119
    Joined Nov 9, 2003
    Calgary, AB, Canada
    Cut silicone radiator hoses to fit car.

    Made lower radiator hose joiner pipe.

    Tweaked the position of the cold air box.

    Played with the intercooler piping around the BOV. Cut a piece of the extra lower silicone hose to fit between the BOV and intake. I'm pretty sure with the current placement of the BOV, something will be hitting the hood. The adjustment screw for sure. I can put in a shorter screw, but if the BOV itself hits, I'll have to notch the hood, or twist the entire pipe, and find some different hose to make the weird bend.

    hoses.jpg
     

    5K  25

    1997 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
    awd · manual · 2G DSM
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  25. pksystems

    pksystems Proven Member

    203
    119
    Joined Nov 9, 2003
    Calgary, AB, Canada
    Tapped the unused boss on the rear of the 1G intake manifold for my boost gauge. Drilled at an angle into the third runner, and after that was through I used a 1/4 NPT tap straight down to install a 1/4 NPT bushing. The inside thread of the bushing is 1/8 NPT.

    After everything was done I put a piece of coathanger with a slight bend through the hole in the drill and ran it a bit to deburr the inside of the hole. Hooked up my fiber optic inspection camera and fed it through the intake to get a look at the backside of the hole. No burrs. Vacuumed/blew all aluminum shavings out, and then gave the intake a bath.

    intake_bushing.jpg

    Modified my flex-a-lite 220 fans to fit the 4g63 radiator (was originally installed on my 420a) and made some brackets to secure it to the rad. Powdercoated brackets black.

    Cleaned up my OEM radiator hose clips. Powdercoated them orange.

    Powdercoated lower radiator hose joiner

    Powdercoated battery securing brackets

    parts.jpg

    Installed fans on radiator. 2500CFM of cooling goodness. I used closed cell foam to help seal the shroud to the radiator.

    fans.jpg

    Installed radiator assembly with weather strip to seal it to the radiator support and AC condenser. Any air that makes it's way through the AC condenser, has to exit through the radiator. Now I just need to make some sort of ducting from the FMIC to the AC condenser.

    gasket.jpg

    Lots of clearance.

    clearance.jpg
     
    Last edited: Nov 13, 2016

    5K  25

    1997 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
    awd · manual · 2G DSM
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    iugrad92turbo likes this.

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