GVR-4 Piston and Rod help

[GetWrexed]

Hey guys so I'm currently in the process of ordering everything for my Galant and all I have left is for piston and Rod with the exception of a few other minor parts. Now I have done a lot of research or at least tried but the threads I've found are older and wih time anything can change so my question is what piston and Rod combo would you guys recommend for a safe 650-700 crank horse build without breaking the bank too much. I've seen a lot of 1400hd and eagle H beam combos but I would like to hear your guyses suggestions. Thanks in advance!

 

[pauleyman]

Whatever you choose don't buy pistons before machine work. Let the machinist tell you what size you need and make sure he knows what piston to wall clearances is necessary.

 

[GetWrexed]

Whatever you choose don't buy pistons before machine work. Let the machinist tell you what size you need and make sure he knows what piston to wall clearances is necessary.

Thanks for the advice, I will be using a standard bore block.

 

[steve]

Still, don't order pistons until after the machine shop has measured everything.

 

[BogusSVO]

Good deal you are starting with a std bore block.

But if you are willing to go lay out the cash on H beam rods and forged pistons

Why not spend a few more dollars on having the block bored?

This way you have straight , round bores to start.

Have block bored
Order pistons
Have shop hone and set PTW

Anyhow, for rods and Pistons, I like the BC "swap" rods with JE coated pistons

 

[steve]

Making sure everything is round, square, centered, and the right size will go a long way to help keep a engine making 3 times the original output running.

 

[GetWrexed]

Good deal you are starting with a std bore block.

But if you are willing to go lay out the cash on H beam rods and forged pistons

Why not spend a few more dollars on having the block bored?

This way you have straight , round bores to start.

Have block bored
Order pistons
Have shop hone and set PTW

Anyhow, for rods and Pistons, I like the BC "swap" rods with JE coated pistons

The current block we have came off a low mile N/A which was in good shape. Has been honed and polished by the local machine shop. My builder has strictly wanted me to stick with std bore for the reason being that he believes block will get weaker and if anything does happen I have the room to move to .20 over. Me moving from EJ's gives me a somewhat legit reason behind it, but then again these are iron blocks we speak of. Whats your take on it though as I've seen a lot of .20 over builds and they seem to do just fine. I really want this to last a while which is why I'm trying to go the best routes and not short cuts for cheap parts. Thanks for the suggestion I will look into those asap.

 

[BogusSVO]

With a NA block you are in better shape, but about any 4g block that is 20+ years old is going to have some sort of taper.

Core shift of the block would and should be more of a concern than weather it is a STD bore or NA or turbo block.

I know what your legit reason is with the EJ block tho, over 650 HP and the block splits, But Outfront performance has a decent fix for that, not cheap but works, Just heard one of there blocks went 1000hp.

But trying to compare an aluminum split block open deck subaru to a cast iron closed deck traditional Mitsubish is like trying to compare apples to tomatoes... Just worlds apart.

 

[u lost]

It's always good to have everything in spec and checked by a shop .if everything checks out and my machine shop say it is fine I would go with it..I got away with running std bore wiesco HDs and ffwd vader rods..I know most people don't run aluminum on the street but they are nice rods and Darrens customer service is great!