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over tourqed head bolts..

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whiteboyz

10+ Year Contributor
244
0
Jul 21, 2009
Albany, New York
Ok so here i have a problem. i put my head on my block last night. my buddy gave me the tourqe specs for the head bolts. he told me it was 80ft lbs... well guess what it isnt 80 ft lbs. the trq spec as you all know and i know now is 58 - loosen -tighten 1/4 turn - tighten 1/4 turn further. so now i have it all back on and the tourqe specs are not what they are supposed to be. im i in trouble ? do i have to take them out and buy new gasket and bolts or will it be ok ? i dont want to go any further untill i find out. thank you.
 
I think that 2nd option isn't exactly precise, yet people use it for rod bolts and such. Mopar does that for torque specs, I hate that way of torquing bolts.
ARP's? with moly lube? 85ftlbs stepped twice, say 40/60/85, then re-torqued after initial warm up.
 
I think that 2nd option isn't exactly precise, yet people use it for rod bolts and such. Mopar does that for torque specs, I hate that way of torquing bolts.
ARP's? with moly lube? 85ftlbs stepped twice, say 40/60/85, then re-torqued after initial warm up.

stock bolts, no moly lube. and it was 80ftlbs once.
 
never go full torque in one pull, always sep up to the final spec.

if coolent and oil have not been added, you should be able to remove the over torqued bolts, and REPLACE with new ones .
 
Ok so i dont have to buy a new gasket. just replace the headbolts? then tourqe to what the book says, 58lbs - loosen -tighten 1/4- then 1/4 turn tighten. or what rob say'd say 40/60/85, then re-torqued after initial warm up. thanks guys

p.s. are you guys using the stock tourqe specs or no ?

^Exactly..

They only cost $20-$30

Just wasnt sure if i was going to have to send the head out, if it had warped it with it only being lke that for acouple hours. and if i needed to replace my gasket aswell. thanks again guys:thumb::thumb::thumb::thumb::thumb:
 
I would just get ARP head studs and be done with it.

well my buddy has a set he is willing to sell me for 80 bucks and they are new. but my question is should i change my head gasket even though it is new? or im i safe to reuse the one thatt was over tourqed ?
 
The specs your buddy gave you was right for 6bolt motor head bolts. The second specs are actually the only way you can properly tighten torque to yield headbolts. If one isn't comfortable doing it that way, then they've not used torque to yield head bolts much ;). Just get the arps IF you're going to be pushing this motor beyond 350ish whp for piece of mind. If you think this will never happen just get the cheaper TTY oem headbolts and follow the proper procedure.

If you replace the headbolts one at a time using the proper tighening pattern you should be OK with the gasket already on there. But I don't see why you should not get a new gasket. Partsdinosaur has a composite gasket I and many others have had as good of success with as oem composite (felpro) for only $16. The fel-pro composite IS THE SAME GASKET AS MITSU OEM, just rebadged. I've gotten the fel-pro ones for as little as $20 through some autparts stores, local or chains.
 
The specs your buddy gave you was right for 6bolt motor head bolts. The second specs are actually the only way you can properly tighten torque to yield headbolts. If one isn't comfortable doing it that way, then they've not used torque to yield head bolts much ;). Just get the arps IF you're going to be pushing this motor beyond 350ish whp for piece of mind. If you think this will never happen just get the cheaper TTY oem headbolts and follow the proper procedure.

If you replace the headbolts one at a time using the proper tighening pattern you should be OK with the gasket already on there. But I don't see why you should not get a new gasket. Partsdinosaur has a composite gasket I and many others have had as good of success with as oem composite (felpro) for only $16. The fel-pro composite IS THE SAME GASKET AS MITSU OEM, just rebadged. I've gotten the fel-pro ones for as little as $20 through some autparts stores, local or chains.

no i dont plain on going beyond 350hp. I bought the fel-pro from advance auto. it was the only one they had in stock. autozone had a graphite head gasket for cheaper but wasnt sure about them.
so your saying if i dont go past 350hp i can leave it the way it is with the tourqed head bolts ?
 
If they held 80ft-lbs you probably didn't stretch them too far. 80-90 is about all you can expect out of a TTY bolt. Did you back them out? If not, I'd leave them and see how it goes. Put away $100 and get yourself some ARP's and a new composite gasket just in case. When your HG goes you'll have a lot of warning. The second time is much easier, especially if you left some of the stupid crap off. A HG can be done in a few hours if you're working hard.

If you did back them out I wouldn't do it again. Two times is pushing it on TTY bolts. I had a whole thing about how metal works, but I don't think you care. If you do care, send me a PM and I'll edit this.
 
NONONO:) you will be ok with NEW oem headbolts that cost less than half of an $80 set of arp headbolts, since you're so tight with cash that you debating on retorquing a composite head gasket. . .
 
If they held 80ft-lbs you probably didn't stretch them too far. 80-90 is about all you can expect out of a TTY bolt. Did you back them out? If not, I'd leave them and see how it goes. Put away $100 and get yourself some ARP's and a new composite gasket just in case. When your HG goes you'll have a lot of warning. The second time is much easier, especially if you left some of the stupid crap off. A HG can be done in a few hours if you're working hard.

If you did back them out I wouldn't do it again. Two times is pushing it on TTY bolts. I had a whole thing about how metal works, but I don't think you care. If you do care, send me a PM and I'll edit this.

no i did not back them out. i was hoping i could just leave it untill i finish everything n fire it up n drive it around n see what happens. if it help then wohoo for me, if it leakd well i guess i would be pulling the head off haha.

NONONO:) you will be ok with NEW oem headbolts that cost less than half of an $80 set of arp headbolts, since you're so tight with cash that you debating on retorquing a composite head gasket. . .

yeah, if i had to buy the gasket plus bolts again i would not have an money to get some of the other things i need. i had a MLS headgasket on there before, but i did not want to reuse it.
 
no i did not back them out. i was hoping i could just leave it untill i finish everything n fire it up n drive it around n see what happens. if it help then wohoo for me, if it leakd well i guess i would be pulling the head off haha.

Yeah. Worst that happens is you have to take the head off again. Just watch for coolant pushing and/or overheating. Shut it down if it's too hot. I commuted 45 miles a day with a blown head gasket. Added water before I left and when I got off work. After 2 months I finally had to change out the HG because I was overheating a mile away from my house.
 
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