2G Options for low oil pressure

[wmrcs]

My 2g has 130k miles on it and as long as I've had it (since March 2013) I remember the stock oil pressure gauge being in the pit at warm idle. I knew the thing wasn't trustworthy and it went up when I drove so I kind of forgot about it. About a month ago I got a new oil pressure gauge and it is still reading 0 psi at a warm idle. My idle is rather low, about 550 RPM. Oil pressure at 2500 RPM is ~51 psi.

What are my options to get oil pressure at idle back up? I'm in college, getting married next summer and don't have funds for a full rebuild. Is there anything I can do as a temporary fix or at least something to raise the pressure a bit? Any parts I can swap? I don't know if it'd help with the pressure but I've looked into getting the 3g lifters.

I'm open to anything, besides a rebuild at this point. I'll rebuild it maybe in a year or two, I just need it to last as my DD.

Currently running Shell Rotella T6 5w-40 oil.

 

[jbeaton9292]

I would suggest new oil pump that was the problem on my f150 when it was low pressure

 

[wmrcs]

Hmm. Not too sure about that but I'll look into it. I just don't see how I could have such LOW psi with only 130k miles and the car stock its entire life, not to mention I have "every single" maintenance record since 96 when the original owner bought it. Regular oil changes etc.

 

[FalzonMotorsports]

Are you using an electric or mechanical gauge? Is the oil light flickering at idle?

I'm not sure how low the pressure has to get for the oil light to come on, but if the light is off, then your pressure is not 0.

I have two DSM's, both turbo's and both show 0psi at idle, on a hot day with the a/c on.

My light stays off, but my gauges are cheep. I never actually measured the pressure with a good gauge.

Now you have me curious. I have a few extra oil pressure sensors in the garage and an accurate oil pressure gauge. I'll check the car with a good gauge, and check the sensor with regulator to see how low it gets before the light comes on.

 

[wmrcs]

Yea it's just a cheap electrical Prosport gauge. I didn't T off with the stock sender either, just rethreaded to NPT and put in the Prosport sender. No dummy light has come on. I did open the oil cap when it was idling warm and it *sounded* like it needed more oil. I couldn't really see oil sloshing around but there was oil on the cams and stuff. I actually haven't checked my oil level for about 3 weeks so I'll check that in the morning and see if I'm low.

 

[jbeaton9292]

Deffinatly good idea to check it and yeah with stock gauge hard to say how accurate of a reading your gonna see

 

[WES_393]

If your idle is that low, and your current pressure gauge is unreliable, then you really can't say whether oil pressure is low or not. But 50psi by 2500rpm is a good sign, so I'd get an accurate reading before making any serious plans.

If it turns out you actually do have dangerously low pressure, then the only "permanent" solution is a new oil pump, and/or a bottom end rebuild. But one of the most effective Band-aids would be eliminating the balance shafts.

 

[shhh i know]

I would first try a new gauge to check your pressure. Often times they crap out and it would be worth checking.

Also I don't know if this applies to 2g but on my 1g I've experienced virtually no oil pressure reading on my stock gauge (at idle) after changing my oil and putting on a fram oil filter. I think the factory filters have some kind of extra chamber in them that aftermarkets don't. I swapped out the oil filter with a OEM and I started having a actual pressure reading at idle.

 

[NHerron]

Is the oil light lit with key on engine off? If it is, but it goes away with the engine running I wouldn't worry too much but still get it checked with an accurate gauge. Have any mechanic friends with a good SnapOn gauge or something?

Pull the oil cap with engine running and see whats going on in there, look for oil flying around or if any parts of the cams are excessively blue.

 

[FalzonMotorsports]

I just checked my low pressure sensor with a very accurate 0-20 psi regulator. I kept adding pressure until the light went out. The the light turns off at 4.5 psi.

 

[renovatdkitchen]

Oil in the head is a good thing. Means you got at least 15psi (or around there).

 

[wmrcs]

If your idle is that low, and your current pressure gauge is unreliable, then you really can't say whether oil pressure is low or not. But 50psi by 2500rpm is a good sign, so I'd get an accurate reading before making any serious plans.

If it turns out you actually do have dangerously low pressure, then the only "permanent" solution is a new oil pump, and/or a bottom end rebuild. But one of the most effective Band-aids would be eliminating the balance shafts.

Well I think my gauge is reliable, but I do need to turn up my idle. I can't reach the screw to turn it up though when it's warm and idling because the battery and cruise stuff is in the way haha. Thanks for the suggestions!

Is the oil light lit with key on engine off? If it is, but it goes away with the engine running I wouldn't worry too much but still get it checked with an accurate gauge. Have any mechanic friends with a good SnapOn gauge or something?

Pull the oil cap with engine running and see whats going on in there, look for oil flying around or if any parts of the cams are excessively blue.

Nope, I've never seen an oil light on my cluster. Nope, sadly none of my friends are into cars like me. I did pull the cap last night and I didn't see oil splashing around or anything but there was oil present and nothing was blue, it all looked gold kind of.

 

[NHerron]

Sorry, been without internet a while, what did you find out OP?

 

[DigORdieTSi]

What viscosity and brand of oil are you using? Also that idle is pretty low, I believe target idle is around 900RPM. Adjust your idle higher and i bet the oil pressure will be closer to spec at the target idle.

 

[wmrcs]

Sorry, been without internet a while, what did you find out OP?

I didn't find out much, been busy with getting back to college and moving around. I have plans to turn my idle up a tad and we'll see if it changes anything. I'm using Shell Rotella T6 5w-40.

 

[WES_393]

Well I think my gauge is reliable, but I do need to turn up my idle. I can't reach the screw to turn it up though when it's warm and idling because the battery and cruise stuff is in the way haha.

The throttle stop screw is not the proper way to raise the idle. You first need to run a boost leak test and fix all leaks. If idle is still too low, then ground the diagnostics pin and set idle using the BISS screw.

 

[DSM1G90]

Bet main connecting rod bearings are tired letting oil pressure flow past the bearings with that many miles on the motor, and this will easily cause low pressure.

I'd say it's time for bearing replacement, but have to check the crank for even wear, for if not, the crank has to be turned so the new bearings can seat flush with the crank journals.

 

[curt-s]

Oil in the head is a good thing. Means you got at least 15psi (or around there).

Would that not mean that at idle where you have less than 15psi, you'd have little to no oil at the head?

That does bring me to wonder what is the absolute minimum pressure required at the OFH to provide adequate oil flow to the head at idle..

 

[DSM1G90]

Is what I experience is what I posted .. tired connecting rod bearings.

Yet, I have good flow to the head and no lifter tic at idle at 750rpm, thus leaving things along until I have to do the overhaul.

-DSM

 

[renovatdkitchen]

Would that not mean that at idle where you have less than 15psi, you'd have little to no oil at the head?

That does bring me to wonder what is the absolute minimum pressure required at the OFH to provide adequate oil flow to the head at idle..

It's around 15 psi. I remember reading that when I was concerned about an oil pressure gauge that was not working properly.

You don't need a lot of pressure at idle, and our engines are notorious for low oil pressure at idle. 12.5psi is the recommended idle oil pressure.

 

[NHerron]

Id be more worried about the oil light not functioning.

According to this picture, it's the little one wire sensor directly just below the alternator, with a Philips head screw. Remove the wire from the sensor (unscrew the screw holding it) and with the key on and a friend watching, ground that wire to the housing itself. You should see an amber light pop up on the dash, IF the wiring is in decent shape. If the light lights up but then it doesn't with the wire attached to the sensor (engine off key on), then the sensor is at fault.

http://sammynitta.smugmug.com/Cars/2G-Talon/i-8BP58wt/0/M/IMGP5303-M.jpg

 

[motomattx]

Why are you running 5w oil? you should be running 20w-50 above 70* F.

 

[DSM1G90]

10w30 is the better which has better flow - in which these motors really need instead of the pressure.

20w50 is too thick for that temp range and flows much slower.

20w50 weight is okey for extreme conditions-like rally and drag, but not for DD usage.

 

[motomattx]

Except that the owners manual calls for 20w-50 above 70* F.

 

[wmrcs]

Wait, so should I be used 10w-30 instead of 5w-40? The only reason I'm using 5w-40 is because I had heard amazing things about the Rotella T6 and that's what it comes in. How would I go about replacing the bearings? Can someone link me to something so I know exactly what needs to be replaced and an approximate price? I'm a handy guy, do all the work myself so labor isn't something I'm worried about.