Only 250hp??

[slvrDsm]

hey guys.. i reasearched this thread and found somewhat of an answer. im just curious to see if this sounds right. i have a 97 gst. and went to the dyno to get it tuned yesterday with my new dsmlink. which by the way is the greatest thing ever alive . well i dynoed only 250hp and 243tq at about 19 to 20 psi on pump gas. here are my mods

evo 3 big 16g
evo 3 exhaust manifold ported
evo 3 o2 housing
apex turbo back(resignator replaced with a pipe)
injen intake
Greddy XL FMIC kit with greddy type s BOV
Fp2 cams with crower valve springs and retainers.
fidanza adjustible cam gears set to: exhaust cam retarded 3 drgrees and intake 1 degree advanced

Its was done on a mustang dyno... just doesnt seem right to me... if anyone would mind letting me know what you think i would appreciate it.. thanks guys

Eric

 

[slvrDsm]

no i dont have an afpr... but if i was running out of fuel wouldn't my a/f ratio be higher thatn 11.5..?? and i plan on setting the cams to 0 degrees.. maybe jus retard the exhaust 2 degrees thats it.. and i jus did a boost leak test found the egr vacume hose off.. as well as the one the conects to the solinoid on the fire wall.. fixed them.. still heard a hiss... looked for an hour.. decided the final decision.. its leaking from the turbo where the c-clamp holding the inlet side on.. pissed me off.. anyone ever heard of that? worth gettin a turbo over? if so which one would u guys recommend... thanks alot guys..

Eric

 

[slvrDsm]

ok.. i think i did it.. this is when he was tuning the fuel... but was a run.. see what u guys think... thanks

 

[deviousgst]

i think i got the same mods if not less and i pull out 298hp on a dynojet

 

[Detective Coating]

You have a major boost leak. Look at the very end your air flow per rev goes over 200! That is way too much.

 

[fulanititoo8198]

What's going on with your timing in that log? Negative timing? that's a new one to me.

 

[TSIMonsteR]

He took out WAY too much timing.

 

[eder-loco]

Man, I hit 289hp and 270trq on a safc2.
on a 16g at 20psi.


no timing ftl...

 

[webconnect]

Go get your money back...

 

[slvrDsm]

hey guys... i did find a boost leak. my vacume line to the EGR came off and a line that goes to a solinoid on the fire wall was off to... dont know why i didnt realize it.. and ya i agree on the timing thing.. im going back to tweak it more tommorrow.. and i also changed my cam gears to 0 on the intake and only 2* retarded on the exhaust.. runs alot smoother and hoping for better number tommrrow.. anyone else see anything wrong with that log?? thanks guys

 

[snowborder714]

I'm guessing this was a 4th gear pull?

You need to add LTFT Lo, LTFT Mid, STFT, MAFRaw, ThrotPos, TPSVolts, and RawThrotPos to your logged values. To do this, go to ECU > Captured Values and add them to the box on the right.

Check and adjust your TPS as necessary:
dsmlinktpsadjustment [ECMTuning - wiki]

You need to change your properties. Go to Display > Values, click down the list in the right box and click on the Props button and make sure they're all set correctly. I noticed this because your A/F Ratio still has the stock injector settings. Also, make sure you check the "Save for future captures" box in the Props box so you don't have to fix this every time.

You need to start off by doing your airflow tuning. This can be done off the dyno. You will be adjusting your 50Hz (idle), 150Hz (rev), and 250Hz (cruise) sliders. The 400Hz - 2400Hz sliders will be adjusted using a 3rd gear pull from 1500 - 7000 RPM's.
GMAF Calibration for LTFT

Here is how to do the rest of the airflow sliders. You will have to pay close attention to your boost gauge. If you have a digital camera, I would recommend taking the video of the gauge as it could help. You'll just have to figure out a way to incorporate the MAFRaw Hz level so you can match up what the boost gauge reads and the BoostEst value in DSMlink.
DSMlink MAS/MAF Calibration Page

Check the "Invert CAS" button (so that it's darker) under ECU > Miscellaneous.

The reason why your car felt so weak is because once full boost kicked in, you saw a max of 2* of timing. Zero out your timing and fuel sliders and start over. I have never seen negative timing or positive fuel. You will most likely have negative fuel sliders once it's said and done. According the the 2g estimates, you were running around 12:1 or a bit leaner once in full boost. This is really dangerous on pump gas. Once you go back, use the 2g estimates to shoot for a 10.5:1 and then fine tune it to the target 11:1 ratio. Once you have your fuel and airflow sliders done, then move on to timing. You can slowly add timing until you start seeing knock. Then just take it out degree by degree until the knock disappears. As I said earlier, .4 or .7 knock is nothing to fret over.

Your coolant temp gets pretty hot towards the end of the log, enough that it's pull 1* of timing. You will want to do something about this. The temperature where it pull that degree is 206.

I would recommend your next purchases to be an AFPR and install kit as well as a fuel pump rewire kit. Then you'll want to get a wideband of your own so that you don't have to keep going to a dyno to tune your car.

I have no idea what these guys were doing (and I'm pretty sure they didn't either). I would try and get your money back for the tune or get some free dyno time to fix it.

 

[19BLACKGST98]

Yea it seems that you could do a better tune yourself on the dyno if you could just call someone one on this site that knew what they were doing with link (sorry I would volunteer but I am not that guy...I have a chip just because I didnt want to be in a situation where I would have to do much tuning). It sounds to me that you just need help getting your initial set up on link going (which snowboarder was helping you with). After you get the initial set up its supposed to be super easy, just like using an afc only better.

 

[slvrDsm]

whats up man.. yes this was on a 4th gear pull.

i dont wanna diss the guy who tuned my car... as dsmlink was new to us both.. he is a really cool guy.. said if i dont like the way it performs jus bring it back an we will strap it up an tweak it again.. so not really blaming him.

man.. i sure did miss alot of stuff... well this will really help me with the tune.. im going back tommrrow to talk to the guy.. im gonna show him the steps an we will both learn how.. One thing i dont get it that he said i should shoot for 11.5 af ratio.. but i really should shoot for 10.5 to start with correct? once i have that dialed in then move on to the timing portion? man.. this is going to take a while

 

[snowborder714]

11.5:1 is too lean if you're running pump gas. That might be the target for a different car, but not ours.

Your final goal is 11:1, but I would use the 2g estimates to shoot for a 10.5:1 (since the estimates aren't completely accurate) and then fine tune it to 11:1. Or just shoot for an 11:1 and see how close you can get.

 

[slvrDsm]

ok.. so got that down. start for 10.5... then work my way to dial it in final at 11.1...

now when doing the LTFT Lo and mid.. is it easy to do? like i can do it in the parking lot of the dyno place easy..?

Im sorry if my newbie experience is annoying man.. but i do appreciate all your help

Eric

 

[snowborder714]

You can do it out in front of your house if you wanted. Just know that once you adjust something, take it for a drive, come back, let it idle for a bit, and check it again. It'll take a little while for the ECU to relearn the settings so it might take a few days for the settings to settle in.

 

[slvrDsm]

Oh and my global % is 30 and deadtime is 210.. sound about rite? did it according to the fuel trim calibration page

oh i see... so i should probly do it tommrrow before i go talk to the guy who tuned it..

ok. as far as setting my TPS sensor what all do i do? will it be step by step in the dsmlink?

So 1st. TPS
2nd.. LTFT Lo and Mid
3rd?? whats next?

 

[adidas_coin]

try a bigger carb!!! sorry, im not helping....all kidding aside, narrowing down the vacuum leaks and the timing issue should help ALLOT!

 

[slvrDsm]

try a bigger carb!!! sorry, im not helping....all kidding aside, narrowing down the vacuum leaks and the timing issue should help ALLOT!

hahaha.. ya. i did a boost leak test today found a huge leak out of the vacume hose that goes to the EGR and the hose that goes to one of the solinoids on the fire wall.. that helped alot

 

[adidas_coin]

We had a modified S60R come into work the other day, the guy said his car would shoot him back in his seat(Good, 300hp stock will do that) and the proceed to run like a geo metro with a cold air intake (Bad) all it was, was a line off of the boost control solenoid had gotten a tiny lil hole in it. it would overboost long enough to throw a code (195% boost pressure to be exact) then run like a bag of a@@holes. so yes vacuum leaks are bad mmk. obviously boost solenoid ones are worse though. BTW did you say the circlip on your turbo was leaking?

 

[snowborder714]

To check the TPS, you need to log those values I posted previously and follow the link I posted about how to set the TPS.

ThrotPos at idle should be 0 and at WOT should be 100.
RawThrotPos should be 32.
TPSvolts should be .63 when RawThrotPos is 32.

 

[JayRolla]

Wow you where really hitting only 2* max timing, no wonder if feels like a dog. At around 10* my buddys car felt real sluggish even at 20psi.

All the info the wiseman gave you is great. 10.5afr, then get boost where it. Then get timing to around 14-18* depending on how knock happy your motor is. I say on pump gas that 16* at wot is about perfect. You also want timing to be a little high when boost hits, it makes it feel a lot better. People say lower timing for faster spool but its not worth the power loss or the sluggish feel. I like timing to be around 14* when boost hits and slowly ramp up to 16-18*

After timing is good you can lean it out a little unless it knocks, then put it back. More boost and timing at 10.5 afr will make more power than going to 11.1 if you have to pull timing or boost.

 

[JusMX141]

Why are you SUBTRACTING 10*+ starting at 5K? That's the point when you generally ADD timing until you see knock.

No timing advance = no power.

 

[1_2befast]

My thoughts are lower the boost to 18psi zero it all back out, set your global to -29 and 300 deadtime assuming PTE/Delfi injectors. Get your fuel trims in line and then worry about your WOT. If you aren't on the DSMLink forum get on there by contacting ECMtuning with you product info. You can learn a lot over there.

 

[turboAWDfanatic]

11.5:1 is too lean if you're running pump gas. That might be the target for a different car, but not ours.

Your final goal is 11:1, but I would use the 2g estimates to shoot for a 10.5:1 (since the estimates aren't completely accurate) and then fine tune it to 11:1. Or just shoot for an 11:1 and see how close you can get.

True, but what was the source of the AFR #'s he was coming up with? If it's logged through 'Link, than aim for 11:1, but if it was logged from the tail pipe via the dyno's O2 sensor, than its okay to aim for a little bit of a leaner mixture. In my (limited) experience, 11.5:1 from the dyno's sensor at the tail pipe equals about 11:1 in the engine.

 

[slvrDsm]

We had a modified S60R come into work the other day, the guy said his car would shoot him back in his seat(Good, 300hp stock will do that) and the proceed to run like a geo metro with a cold air intake (Bad) all it was, was a line off of the boost control solenoid had gotten a tiny lil hole in it. it would overboost long enough to throw a code (195% boost pressure to be exact) then run like a bag of a@@holes. so yes vacuum leaks are bad mmk. obviously boost solenoid ones are worse though. BTW did you say the circlip on your turbo was leaking?

yes.. well thats wee i think its coming from.. an i hope its not bad.. i mean i cant afford a turbo now ..