Only 250hp??

[slvrDsm]

hey guys.. i reasearched this thread and found somewhat of an answer. im just curious to see if this sounds right. i have a 97 gst. and went to the dyno to get it tuned yesterday with my new dsmlink. which by the way is the greatest thing ever alive . well i dynoed only 250hp and 243tq at about 19 to 20 psi on pump gas. here are my mods

evo 3 big 16g
evo 3 exhaust manifold ported
evo 3 o2 housing
apex turbo back(resignator replaced with a pipe)
injen intake
Greddy XL FMIC kit with greddy type s BOV
Fp2 cams with crower valve springs and retainers.
fidanza adjustible cam gears set to: exhaust cam retarded 3 drgrees and intake 1 degree advanced

Its was done on a mustang dyno... just doesnt seem right to me... if anyone would mind letting me know what you think i would appreciate it.. thanks guys

Eric

 

[slvrDsm]

True, but what was the source of the AFR #'s he was coming up with? If it's logged through 'Link, than aim for 11:1, but if it was logged from the tail pipe via the dyno's O2 sensor, than its okay to aim for a little bit of a leaner mixture. In my (limited) experience, 11.5:1 from the dyno's sensor at the tail pipe equals about 11:1 in the engine.

he had a o2 sensor connected to my downpipe.. so a widebad basically.. so i dont think its wrong..

 

[1_2befast]

You are probably running pretty lean under boost now that the leak is fixed I wouldn't beat on it until you know the AFR is safe under boost.

 

[slvrDsm]

Actually dynojets read higher than mustang and dynometers. He ran on a mustang so if he added 15% that would be about what a dynojet would run.

ok.. well back in the day i dynoed on a i believe it was i dyno pack. he took off my wheels an mounted straight to the wheel studs.. i made 295hp and 268tq... at 21.5psi. at the time i had a pacecetter tubular header which now is a ported evo3... and i added crower valve springs and retainers..

And ya.. i been driving like a grandma around until i get it tuned again.

Im heading back to the dyno next Wed. i talked to the guy and gave him all the sites an dsmlink tuning guides so he can read. i think we will dial it in just fine after we know more about it and do some research

 

[19BLACKGST98]

Updates?

 

[slvrDsm]

here is the current tuning log.. were on the dyno now... what you guys think.. i know im getting knock so let me know if there is somethin im missing. this is sll stock timing map at 13psi. No timing was takin nor givin. thanks

Ok. i added the last login here with them.. we tried to get the knock down. ended up in same result wit pulling alot of timing.. someone tell me whats going on with my car.. i cant figure it out. only thing is i can think of is the sensor is bad

Eric

 

[slvrDsm]

Nobody has any input

Would really like anyones advice since im lost

Thanks guys

 

[funcar]

I only dyno'd 310hp/260tq on Buschurs mustage dyno. My mods are in my sig.

 

[JayRolla]

So the timing sliders on dsmlink are set at zero? Timing still looks real low and you should not be seeing knock. What is the afr at?

 

[19BLACKGST98]

I only dyno'd 310hp/260tq on Buschurs mustage dyno. My mods are in my sig.

Did you dyno 310 on 14 psi or somthing?

 

[slvrDsm]

we tried to 0 out the timing an we were still getting knock... he said the ratio was between 10.5 and 11.0... i ordered a new knock sensor from mitsu cause i have never changed it since i had the car.. (5 years) and this is my 3rd motor .. so maybe this will help..

anythin else anyone sees that i can make a change too..??
thanks guys

Eric

 

[slvrDsm]

Wow you where really hitting only 2* max timing, no wonder if feels like a dog. At around 10* my buddys car felt real sluggish even at 20psi.

All the info the wiseman gave you is great. 10.5afr, then get boost where it. Then get timing to around 14-18* depending on how knock happy your motor is. I say on pump gas that 16* at wot is about perfect. You also want timing to be a little high when boost hits, it makes it feel a lot better. People say lower timing for faster spool but its not worth the power loss or the sluggish feel. I like timing to be around 14* when boost hits and slowly ramp up to 16-18*

After timing is good you can lean it out a little unless it knocks, then put it back. More boost and timing at 10.5 afr will make more power than going to 11.1 if you have to pull timing or boost.

Ok.. i got the car re-tuned at FFTEC.. Great place... My timing was off a tooth.. so we fixed that. an we got about 10 to 11 degrees of timing it an thats it.. Sean at fftec said my car was very knock sensitive.. it was just 1* away from knock.. but it feels alot better than -2* of timing

overall results.. it put down 265hp and 245torque... not bad i guess... on a mustang dyno...

 

[1_2befast]

Do you have any valve train noise that would cause it to be knock happy? Do you have a log of the 265hp pull?

 

[slvrDsm]

Im not to sure about the noise from valvetrain.. it was doing really good on knock.. did not see any for a long time on the tune.. during the end of the run we were seeing like .3 to .7 knock which was not really bad. so he added 1* from 4000 up.. an we were seein 1.3 to 2.8 knock... and he used his labtop for the tune.. How can i hook up mine and get the log up that he did?? then i can post it for u.. thanks man... help is much appreciated

 

[BoostFrenzy]

Did FFTec say anything about you having phantom knock, maybe from bad harmonics or something? To me, for an engine to be THAT knock happy there has to be something else going on.

 

[hubz91talontsi]

Did you ever get an fpr? How are you also out of fuel...I have 680's on the stock pump running 17psi still rich. This is the stock shortblock correct? How many miles

 

[slvrDsm]

No havent got a chance to purchase an AFPR yet.. but Sean at fftec said he can tune around it to work.. but he didnt mention Phantom Knock.. but he did reccomend me takin my underdrive pully off and putting the stock one on.. do you guys thing that could make PK?? and im not running out of fuel.. Im tryin to take my lunch at work to go go grab my car so i can post the knew log from yesterday.. and yes stock shortblock.. about 65k on it. bought it from mitsubishi a while ago

 

[hubz91talontsi]

Aren't those fp2 a little to agressive? What octane fuel are you running?

 

[1_2befast]

You can't get a log of the dyno pull, but you could go out and get a WOT log any time and post it up.

 

[hubz91talontsi]

He has dsmlink a log has already been posted.

 

[slvrDsm]

As far as fp2's i dnt think they are to agressive.. they dnt require springs... an i will post a 3rd gear pull today an post it for u guys to look at thanks guys... o.. and im running chevron 91octane

Eric

 

[JeffGST]

No where in this thread did I see what the Base Timing setting is?

When they adjusted the cam gears, did they check Base Timing?

Post a new log?

 

[timsturbotalon]

250 hp sounds good to me. besides isnt that at the wheels

 

[slvrDsm]

Ya.. 265 at the wheels.. The base timing was off 1 tooth when i went to get it re-tuned.. he had to fix it.. then base timing was right... so we started tuning... i will post up a log as soon as i can get the car.. i know it says WAY more than i can... but it runs alot better than before when the guy who didnt know anything about DSMlink.. jus wish i could get more timing up top... thanks guys

 

[JeffGST]

The base timing was off 1 tooth when i went to get it re-tuned.. he had to fix it.. then base timing was right... so we started tuning... i will post up a log as soon as i can get the car..

I think you are misunderstanding me.

Base Timing = Base Ignition Timing (5 degrees before top dead center)

When you say "base timing was off 1 tooth" that is telling me that you are talking about cam timing. You need to ground timing and take a timing light to the lower timing belt cover. This will tell you exactly where base IGNITION TIMING is set at.

 

[slvrDsm]

oh.. gotcha.. i misunderstood... base timing is 5* BTDC jus like it says under the hood...