OEM Timing Belt or aftermarket? [Merged 7-8] belts

[moidsm1]

does anyone know if the Contitech timing belt is any good or is it crap?

 

[Morphius]

1) Timing Belt
2) Balance Shaft Belt
3) Idler Pulley
4) Tensioner Pulley
5) Balance shaft belt pulley
6) Tensioner
7) Waterpump
8) Alernator belt
9) Power steering belt and
10) A/C Belt

For a typical 60K service, you really only need to do #1,2. Depending on conditions and driving habits, you MIGHT need to change #3-10. Per service manual guidelines, the remaining belts should be checked for cracks that are straight across the belt. If they look OK, then there is no need to change them. The pulleys should be checked (or spun) to tell if they are leaking, have flat spots or binding in the bearings. If they look and spin OK, then again, no need to change them. Something like the water pump or tensioner, shouldn't need to be changed until the 120K or 180K service interval. If you're leary, 120K is soon enough.

OEM doesn't mean it's made by mitsubishi. It was made by some supplier for Mitsubishi. In alot of cases, what you buy at your local parts store is the same part boxed and sold in a Mitsubishi box at the dealer. The pars store part is just 100-300% cheaper.

 

[RamenPride]

For a typical 60K service, you really only need to do #1,2. Depending on conditions and driving habits, you MIGHT need to change #3-10.

the general consensus years ago (not sure if it's changed) was timing belt, balance shaft belt, and hydraulic tensioner each and every time. same thing at 120K, but include water pump and all pulleys.

 

[RoasT BeeF]

I personally have had better luck with the goodyear belt from autozone than I have with OEM belts. I have always used OEM tensioners however.

 

[DGajre777]

For a typical 60K service, you really only need to do #1,2. Depending on conditions and driving habits, you MIGHT need to change #3-10. Per service manual guidelines, the remaining belts should be checked for cracks that are straight across the belt. If they look OK, then there is no need to change them. The pulleys should be checked (or spun) to tell if they are leaking, have flat spots or binding in the bearings. If they look and spin OK, then again, no need to change them. Something like the water pump or tensioner, shouldn't need to be changed until the 120K or 180K service interval. If you're leary, 120K is soon enough.

OEM doesn't mean it's made by mitsubishi. It was made by some supplier for Mitsubishi. In alot of cases, what you buy at your local parts store is the same part boxed and sold in a Mitsubishi box at the dealer. The pars store part is just 100-300% cheaper.

Thanks for the info. Are you sure about this? I had the water pump in my 92 Eclipse die at 100k.

I think I'll buy the stuff from slowboy instead of the dealership.

 

[Old Mitsu Tech]

For a typical 60K service, you really only need to do #1,2. Depending on conditions and driving habits, you MIGHT need to change #3-10. Per service manual guidelines, the remaining belts should be checked for cracks that are straight across the belt. If they look OK, then there is no need to change them. The pulleys should be checked (or spun) to tell if they are leaking, have flat spots or binding in the bearings. If they look and spin OK, then again, no need to change them. Something like the water pump or tensioner, shouldn't need to be changed until the 120K or 180K service interval. If you're leary, 120K is soon enough.

OEM doesn't mean it's made by mitsubishi. It was made by some supplier for Mitsubishi. In alot of cases, what you buy at your local parts store is the same part boxed and sold in a Mitsubishi box at the dealer. The pars store part is just 100-300% cheaper.

While for the most part that's true, most of the people on here have a 10-15 year old car they just purchased. There's a whole bunch of unknowns. Now, after you have established a base for repairs and know everything has not been run for more than its intended life expectancy, you can stretch it a bit. Most of these parts we recommend for replacement are at least several years old and probably have never been replaced during any prior repairs.

Call your local Chrysler dealer and your local parts house and compare on the auto tensioner. I can produce receipts that the dealer is cheaper than at least my local parts stores on this particular part. Just bought one for a 3000 gt and it was less expensive at the dealer.


Good Luck

 

[FORMONTOYA]

I'm not sure what 3 seals in the block Jim is talking about. I'm guessing cam seals is one of them. What about the other 2 - EGR valve gasket and water outlet gasket?

the 3 seals: crank, oil pump, and balance belt. it would be a shame to do a tb job then find out a few months later you had leaking seals. the water pump will come with gasket and o-ring, as long as you do not remove the pipe, you should not have to worry about the other end. I do not recall removing the egr during a tb job, but i have slept since then.

the 2 cam seals would also be good to replace. missed those, total 5 seals.

jim

 

[FORMONTOYA]

i agree that if the car was purchased new or that if you knew the cars history that you could get away with not replacing everything on "the list". however, with my car at least, if i am going in there to do the job i will generally start purchasing parts a little early (1 pulley this wk, another next wk,...) until i have all the parts needed. that way it is not a total shock to the wallet. the only reason i change everything at 60k is "just because i am anal that way".

jim

 

[Steve_P]

IMO use nothing but Mitsu belts. I used a Gates belt once and it showed signs of cracking in 25k miles. Mitsu's still look good after 60k. It is not worth saving $ here on non OE parts. You can get discounts on OE Mitsu parts at various dealers.

 

[guitarhero14]

I got a quote to have my timing belt replaced, i asked them if they are OEM belts. I was told it was OEM spec. The parts are from NAPA, is OEM spec just as good as Mitsu belts? Thanx.

 

[andytalon]

No Oem spec is NOT Oem, its an imitaion. Don't listen to the people at Napa they don't have a dsm. Order one from a dealer or get it off the internet OEM only. Your timing belt is a VERY important part if not the most of your car. Don't want it failing on you! Good luck

 

[Scott_S]

Just because it doesnt say mitsubishi on it doesnt mean its crap. I've had the napa belt on my car for some time now with absoultly no problems and it only cost me $30 new

 

[robs90tsi]

Ya, well I ordered an OEM spec flywheeel and starter, the flywheel wouldnt even fit inside the bell housing on my tranny, and the starter couldnt fit through the scatter shield, as far as belts go, OEM spec would be fine, but when it comes to a timing belt, something that is vital to your engines life, I would go nothing short of OEM, straight up Mitsu.

 

[femmeDSM]

^^^ Right. There are a few parts (like accessory belts, for example) that are fine from pretty much any place.

But the timing belt? Sorry, but something that important needs to have the Mitsubishi logo on the package or I won't use it.

 

[mitsuclipsegsx]

mitsubishiparts.com

 

[project_tsi]

Another 1 up for the true OEM t-belt. The only belt t-belt that I trust other then OEM, is the Kevlar belt.

 

[fourreGsixty3]

Yeah I agree with ^^^^. When it comes to my timing belt if it dont say mitsu on it then I dont use it. No need to scimp on $$$ with the timing belt, cause that could snap and take your head along with it, I got a regular assesory(sp?)belt from napa, and it lasted all of 2 days before it was sqealing and snaped off. So go witrh OEM from mitsu dealership or OEM off the net.

 

[msmytalones]

Got a question....I have a 93 Plymouth Laser. Where should I go to get my Timing Belt? Can I go to Mitsibushi and get one or where should I go? How much do they cost? My engine is a 1.8 so what else should I get to sway out when I do this.

Thanks,

Donovan

 

[wret]

Internet/mail order venders like mitsubishiparts.com always have better prices. Go to the dealer if you can't wait a week.

 

[Xplicit93AWD]

Also I have herd good things from the continental belt and it just so happen that thespeedfactor.com has a speacil for us the members of dsmtuners so check that out. I hope it helps.

 

[Morphius]

The only belt t-belt that I trust other then OEM, is the Kevlar belt.

In my opinion, the Kevlar belt is another gimmic to make someone money. It's not any better than a regular belt. Yes, Kevlar is stronger than say S-glass reinforcement. But, has anyone had a belt fail lately? I've picked up 10 or so cars, that had bad timing belts. The balance shaft belt had gone and got into the timing belt. In those instances, the ribs or teeth were chewed off the timing belt. Notice there is NO reinforment in what is the critical part of the belt. The kevlar belt is no different. The main body of the belt is reinforced, but not the ribs.

The only instance I'd choose the Kevlar one is for the balance shaft belt. Those always sheer all the way through both the body and ribs of the belt.

 

[Gamble97]

My motor is almost done being built & I need to get a timing belt.

Which route should I go and why?

I know to change the OEM belt at 60k, but what about a greddy timing belt? or a kevlar timing belt?

Thanks

 

[reeper]

I just did a real quick search and almost everyone i rear said use a new OEM belt.

 

[RedGSX21]

everyone uses the oem belt. dont get the greddy belt. Mitsubishi knows their engines better then greddy does. Those other belts wont give you anything more than the oem. Dont take the chance just go with the oem for sure.

 

[gstowner]

Bump. I agree with everyone here

 

[Gs Dewd]

Oem all the way don't take a chance with a aftermarket belt not worth the risk.