2G Odd whinning noise from engine

[gofast63]

All sensors check out.
Tps is at .63
no leaks
no hesitation when driving
Timing is perfect.

I doubt the tensonser pully could make this loud of noise.


Dsm problem - YouTube

 

[gofast63]

check your power steering fluid, this same thing happened to my wifes Lincoln LS, and it happened to my eclipse last month. It started whining real bad put some power steering fluid in and was good to go on both occasions. If your good on the fluid your power steering pump its about ready to go on you. the bearing in the pulley is screwed. my best suggestion. let me know how that goes.

Also does the noise seem to go away or get a little quieter while your driving? If so ill bet money is your PS pump

I've took both belts off and it still make that noise

Your CEL is on... what are the codes? Checking that should always be your first move when you think something is wrong.


Either I'm going deaf or my speakers suck because I don't hear it.

If you have the stock 2Gb CAS, no it isn't adjustable.

At idle, your ignition timing should be jumping around at anywhere from 5* BTDC to 15* BTDC. Since you have an SAFC and 550 injectors, your ignition timing should be even more advanced than that. Is your TB idle switch set properly?

Well, if it wasn't already...

How'd you check these?


Well, then your FPR must be seeing about 7psi of positive boost when you do that.


Comb?
Did your DSM join hairclub?
Please enlighten me as to what you really meant.


150 isn't horrible but a tad on the lower side for a 2G, how many miles on it?




It's not your problem but you should close that gap to 0.028", assuming you're running regular copper plugs.

Do you mean my bliss screw? When you say tb switch?, It has 150,000 miles on it. When I said comb , I meant MAF sensor...I apologies. When testing my o2 sensor I spray brake cleaner on a rag and wrap it in the rag over the o2 sensor. It stayed at 10.0 until the brake cleaner was gone

I wil get engine codes when I vet off of work. So ill be able to post them at 4:30 . Along with engine bay pictures and another video.

What about your Balance shafts themselves? You might have a bearing issue with one of them. You could remove the front balance shaft belt and re-check for the sound )just temporary of course. You need a stethoscope so you can poke around the engine bay and narrow down the location of the sound.

A lifter going bad could also make this sound. Either way, it is definitely something related to engine RPM

I think it has to be the balance shaft in the front. I agree with you. Cause when I had the engine running that's where it sounded like that was where it was coming from. I'll post a another video showing my timing marks alp.g with everything else.

I'm not familiar with 2g clusters but what lights are on besides the brake light? Looks like a CEL?

But if your timing is off your vacuum will be off as well, and with that off it will mess with the ability to set you SAFC correctly as well. So creating a chain of bad events all based off one thing.

Was there any carnage from the Balance Shaft being messed up like you said? Skipped timing or such? Miss aligned gears. If I remember right from the procedure in installing the Belt you have to time the oil pump or front balance shafts in time with the crank.

Was a leakdown check done to verify that your cylinders are sealing up?

No, I haven't done a leak down test.... The all of the arrows are on the marks where they suppouse to be. As far as timing the shafts I recall seeing a video on how you have to turn the shaft a let it fall into its timing place.....?,is that what you mean by timing it?

 

[delta448]

Do you mean my BISS screw? When you say TB switch?

On a 2G the idle switch is part of the Throttle Position Sensor mounted on the Throttle Body. Pin 3 and 4 of the TPS connector should have continuity when the throttle is closed.

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The Base Idle Set Screw is used to keep the Idle Speed Control (also called IAC, Idle Air Control) motor centered at normal idle, so that it is able to correct idle speed the maximum amount in each direction when it has to. You shouldn't touch the BISS unless you have the scan tool (or other means) to hold the ISC at it's middle position, otherwise the ISC may just re-compensate for your adjustment and you're back at step 1.

You should also check the ISC motor:

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No need for the special harness, just measure the resistance between pin 2 and (1 or 3), and the resistance between pin 5 and (4 or 6).

When I said comb , I meant MAF sensor...I apologies.

Ok, I understand now, you were referring to the MAS's "honeycomb".

 

[gofast63]

On a 2G the idle switch is part of the Throttle Position Sensor mounted on the Throttle Body. Pin 3 and 4 of the TPS connector should have continuity when the throttle is closed.

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The Base Idle Set Screw is used to keep the Idle Speed Control (also called IAC, Idle Air Control) motor centered at normal idle, so that it is able to correct idle speed the maximum amount in each direction when it has to. You shouldn't touch the BISS unless you have the scan tool (or other means) to hold the ISC at it's middle position, otherwise the ISC may just re-compensate for your adjustment and you're back at step 1.

You should also check the ISC motor:

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No need for the special harness, just measure the resistance between pin 2 and (1 or 3), and the resistance between pin 5 and (4 or 6).


Ok, I understand now, you were referring to the MAS's "honeycomb".

Sorry its been taking so long to get back with you guys with the video. I'm down to one car still and trying to get my truck or my Talon running. But if I set my idle switch that would affect my tps voltage, right? I'm just a little confused on how to set both them up.

What about your Balance shafts themselves? You might have a bearing issue with one of them. You could remove the front balance shaft belt and re-check for the sound )just temporary of course. You need a stethoscope so you can poke around the engine bay and narrow down the location of the sound.

A lifter going bad could also make this sound. Either way, it is definitely something related to engine RPM

I removed the balance shaft belt last night. The sound is still there.

On a 2G the idle switch is part of the Throttle Position Sensor mounted on the Throttle Body. Pin 3 and 4 of the TPS connector should have continuity when the throttle is closed.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

The Base Idle Set Screw is used to keep the Idle Speed Control (also called IAC, Idle Air Control) motor centered at normal idle, so that it is able to correct idle speed the maximum amount in each direction when it has to. You shouldn't touch the BISS unless you have the scan tool (or other means) to hold the ISC at it's middle position, otherwise the ISC may just re-compensate for your adjustment and you're back at step 1.

You should also check the ISC motor:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

No need for the special harness, just measure the resistance between pin 2 and (1 or 3), and the resistance between pin 5 and (4 or 6).


Ok, I understand now, you were referring to the MAS's "honeycomb".

The ISC checks out. I forgot to add that to the list. I can't believe I can't figure this out it bugging the crap out me.

 

[delta448]

But if I set my idle switch that would affect my tps voltage, right? I'm just a little confused on how to set both them up.

Why does everybody get so hung up on the TPS voltage?
Proper procedure is to set the idle switch first and foremost, then worry about the TPS voltage. If the idle switch isn't set to have continuity at closed throttle, the car won't idle.

If the idle switch is set correctly per the FSM and the TPS voltage falls outside of the 0.4-1.0 volt range with the feeler gauge still in, then you have either a bad TPS or a problem in the wiring.

 

[gofast63]

Why does everybody get so hung up on the TPS voltage?
Proper procedure is to set the idle switch first and foremost, then worry about the TPS voltage. If the idle switch isn't set to have continuity at closed throttle, the car won't idle.

If the idle switch is set correctly per the FSM and the TPS voltage falls outside of the 0.4-1.0 volt range with the feeler gauge still in, then you have either a bad TPS or a problem in the wiring.

I set everything. But when I start the car it goes to 2,000 rpm to 1,000. And keeps going up and down...

Also 90% of the whining noise went away! We're getting somewhere!