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NWHTanK's Eclipse GST (AWD swap)

Year
1998
Model/Trim
Mitsubishi Eclipse GST

NWHTanK

Proven Member
1,299
187
Apr 23, 2011
Odessa, Missouri
Order a set of GT3 brake ducts . Thier are threads in the forums on these and other styles. I choose this set up for its simplicity.
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simplicity.
 
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NWHTanK

Proven Member
1,299
187
Apr 23, 2011
Odessa, Missouri
I'm also gearing up for a mock build of everything in the front of the car. Since suspension,stearing,oiling and cooling system changes. With no heat and ac in the car including heater box delete and water pipe delete also. I also plan on using a 1g short route intercooler. So some radiator support mods are in order. This will allow me to starting routing plumbing for the turbo to intercooler and back up to the tb. Coolant hoses, and oil lines. I have a mockup motor with a built head, staged awd 5 speed trans and a tcase ,along with parts in my list except a 1g short route intercooler. I need to mock up all the parts and and a talon front cover to determine the maximum thickness i can use for a fmic.
 

ec17pse

Freelancer
5,210
2,442
Nov 1, 2008
London, UK, Europe
The bolts are not a wise idea! The reason most use 12.9 cap heads it because they prodice too much force and they need the tensile strength othereise they pull apart. TI is rated to about 8.8 grade. Its like using stainless which i would also never run in calipers.

Just be warned as its not the ideal location to use hardware in critical places that needs super high tensile steel!
 

NWHTanK

Proven Member
1,299
187
Apr 23, 2011
Odessa, Missouri
I'm not spending x amount on titanium bolts on the brake system. Thier are better ways to reducing wieght . Besides the willwoods are considerably lighter than oem and brembos as it is. ;)
 

NWHTanK

Proven Member
1,299
187
Apr 23, 2011
Odessa, Missouri
Well the stearing rack is here and mocked up. For those who have also gotten thiers, make sure you have your stearing wheel centered before tear down, especially if you are using the factory air bag ith clock spring. Center the stearing gear to 2 and a quarter inches on both sides and then assembled tie rods and boots. Now I have to dig thru my parts and find my whiteline evo adjustable end links. Next up will be modifying the subframe brace. Stay tuned. ;)
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Last edited:

NWHTanK

Proven Member
1,299
187
Apr 23, 2011
Odessa, Missouri
Final drive stuff, tcase, and a Wier max grip plate upgrade . Have to source new syncros and some bearings.
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NWHTanK

Proven Member
1,299
187
Apr 23, 2011
Odessa, Missouri
So last weekend I was bored and decided to se what makes the evo 3 front locking diff tick . I havnt seen any write up on it I decided to explore while it's not installed in the trans. To my surprise the friction plates are the same as the rear that are used in the evo locking rear diff also. With that being said wider plates will work in the front diff. You just have to install the same amount of plates in the same orentation.
 

NWHTanK

Proven Member
1,299
187
Apr 23, 2011
Odessa, Missouri
Basically you follow the instructions that are in with weir 📦 , with the exception that you are using less plates . Simple just put in the same amount as u pulled out and in the same orientation. Thier are 3 small Allen head screws on the side that hold the 2 haves of the diff together until you install the ring gear. The screws seam to be tight and are under tension from the spring plates. When you loosen them the housing seperates under pressure from the spring plates, roughly a 1/8 to 1/4 of a inch. The plates them selves were a bit of pain also(removal and intalation) if they tilt in the slightest way they bind up in the housing. So steady hands are key. Think of the board game Operation but with tighter tolerances ;) .I won't go into detail of diff removal and install, because I havnt done that yet and it been written up all ready.
 
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