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NWHTanK's Eclipse GST (AWD swap)

GST (AWD swap)

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I'm not spending x amount on titanium bolts on the brake system. Thier are better ways to reducing wieght . Besides the willwoods are considerably lighter than oem and brembos as it is. ;)
 
Thats a relief then. I might of read it wrong or took it wrongly.
 
Well the stearing rack is here and mocked up. For those who have also gotten thiers, make sure you have your stearing wheel centered before tear down, especially if you are using the factory air bag ith clock spring. Center the stearing gear to 2 and a quarter inches on both sides and then assembled tie rods and boots. Now I have to dig thru my parts and find my whiteline evo adjustable end links. Next up will be modifying the subframe brace. Stay tuned. ;)
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So last weekend I was bored and decided to se what makes the evo 3 front locking diff tick . I havnt seen any write up on it I decided to explore while it's not installed in the trans. To my surprise the friction plates are the same as the rear that are used in the evo locking rear diff also. With that being said wider plates will work in the front diff. You just have to install the same amount of plates in the same orentation.
 
If you do this in more detail dont forget to do a full write up on it all and perhaps what you did to make it work if the plates are wider.
 
Basically you follow the instructions that are in with weir 📦 , with the exception that you are using less plates . Simple just put in the same amount as u pulled out and in the same orientation. Thier are 3 small Allen head screws on the side that hold the 2 haves of the diff together until you install the ring gear. The screws seam to be tight and are under tension from the spring plates. When you loosen them the housing seperates under pressure from the spring plates, roughly a 1/8 to 1/4 of a inch. The plates them selves were a bit of pain also(removal and intalation) if they tilt in the slightest way they bind up in the housing. So steady hands are key. Think of the board game Operation but with tighter tolerances ;) .I won't go into detail of diff removal and install, because I havnt done that yet and it been written up all ready.
 
Basically you follow the instructions that are in with weir 📦 , with the exception that you are using less plates . Simple just put in the same amount as u pulled out and in the same orientation. Thier are 3 small Allen head screws on the side that hold the 2 haves of the diff together until you install the ring gear. The screws seam to be tight and are under tension from the spring plates. When you loosen them the housing seperates under pressure from the spring plates, roughly a 1/8 to 1/4 of a inch. The plates them selves were a bit of pain also(removal and intalation) if they tilt in the slightest way they bind up in the housing. So steady hands are key. Think of the board game Operation but with tighter tolerances ;) .I won't go into detail of diff removal and install, because I havnt done that yet and it been written up all ready.
I'm trying to picture it. If you still have it apart take some photos man. Would be cool to have an article about that, not sure many will find this post to get that info. And this is a cool find.
 
Well to do some of the stuff I have planned for this winter I bought some new tools. Woodward fab tubing bender, HF 8 ton air hydrolic long ram , Swag Off Road adapter , some Docol R8 tubing, HF port and saw, Swag Off Road adapter to to mount the saw in a vise. This is the most effective and cheapest solution I have found in dealing with Dom,Chomoly and Docol R8 tubing.
 
I needed to make small parts like bushings , spacers and such, so invested in a 7x14 mini metal machine lathe. Waiting on some tools and upgrades for it. ;) . After a while I might upgrade to bigger nicer machine. Also durring the end of summer I traded in the the Chevy 2500 and VW R32 for GMC 1500 Denali that I couldn't leave stock .

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