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NWHTanK's Eclipse GST (AWD swap)

GST (AWD swap)

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Well after emails back and forth and getting a price quote. I need couple more thousand and I'm going billet wet deck block. It not a hp issue but more of a hp to wieght ratio. Considering a billet block + FFWD rotating assembly will be a few pounds less than a bare cast block.
 
Ok so for those reading im going to post this. And can skip the buried threads.
1. Non lsd rear . Only good for non lsd, except the housing. The housing can be converted to lsd by means of a aftermarket locker or evo non ayc locker.
2. Non lsd and oem lsd cups will only work with the lsd or non lsd counterpart and will not work with a aftermarket or evo locker unless stated buy the manufacturer.
3. I can only vouch for stage 2 dss rear axles. They fit oem lsd cups and evo non ayc cups.
So on the cheap depending on the prices u pay . Dsm lsd oem axles and cups to a dsm lsd rear.
2 . Dsm lsd axles+evo cups+evo LS (limited slip) center section, which will fit into a lsd or non lsd diff housing. Now with that said, axles can be uppgrade to dss, and the center diff can also be upgraded to a max lock thru TMZ or thru TRE.
3. Im just going to use Kaaz as aftermarket example. Kaaz LS+ Non lsd or Lsd diff housing+ Evo cups+ lsd or dss axles.
4. Im not going into much but involves a custom subframe and axles.

Hopefully I did this right.
 
Now for the visual diffrence .Evo cup left and top. Were the axle fits in the cup. Evo has a bigger opening for the tri pod vs the non lsd cups. So lsd axles should be used or DSS.
Now side by side Evo left and non lsd rt. The evo cup is slightly longer to allow the retaining ring to engage in the locker.
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Evo Vc 1 thru 3 are like the dsm vc lsd and
Evo 1 thru 3 non vc as a option. Evo 4 up to evo 8 non AYC Im not sure about 9 and 10.
After evo3 they deleted the vc and went mechanical locker or AYC as a option.
 
Well i did a mock up build on the rear diff and I couldn't be more happier. The ring and pinon gears are in excellent shape. Go figure 1 wheel spin and rough checked it . Dissambled the diff making sure of the shims location on the open diff, tore it down swaped the ring gear on to the locker. Assembled, and done till i get a over haul kit or send it to tre for upgrades.
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Well i just got pictures of the finished remote OFH from FTY that they made the changes to. And here they are. This small pain in the but has taken 7 months of bouncing back and forth of modifications and delays..
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I'm also gearing up for a mock build of everything in the front of the car. Since suspension,stearing,oiling and cooling system changes. With no heat and ac in the car including heater box delete and water pipe delete also. I also plan on using a 1g short route intercooler. So some radiator support mods are in order. This will allow me to starting routing plumbing for the turbo to intercooler and back up to the tb. Coolant hoses, and oil lines. I have a mockup motor with a built head, staged awd 5 speed trans and a tcase ,along with parts in my list except a 1g short route intercooler. I need to mock up all the parts and and a talon front cover to determine the maximum thickness i can use for a fmic.
 
The bolts are not a wise idea! The reason most use 12.9 cap heads it because they prodice too much force and they need the tensile strength othereise they pull apart. TI is rated to about 8.8 grade. Its like using stainless which i would also never run in calipers.

Just be warned as its not the ideal location to use hardware in critical places that needs super high tensile steel!
 
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