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2G Notchy shifting

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GsxAwd2300

5+ Year Contributor
62
2
Nov 7, 2017
Prov, Rhode Island
So I had notchy shifting where if I didn’t really finesse the shift clutch allllll the way to the floor rev match some times double clutch I would grind a gear

So I replaced my master clutch and all was good again or so I thought

When I let the car sit overnight it drives perfect for the first 5-10 miles clutch feels great shifts are smooth then clutch starts to get lighter and I’m back to double clutching and finessing

I was just gonna get a ss braided line and slave cylinder and be done with it but I don’t want to throw parts at it and guess

I already have the lower half braided line and using the factory hardline

My slave is like 3 years old and about 12k miles but I did live through contaminated fluid and failed master so maybe it is bad

Could there be an air leak somewhere ?

Can I test the slave ?

Should I just replace the line and the slave ?
 
:hmm: is the clutch line anywhere close to a heat source that could be trying to boil the fluid? That is weird that it happens when it gets hot.
 
Likely an air bubble in the line or slave. When that air heats up, it expands and pushes excess fluid back into the reservoir. Less fluid + less dense air pocket = spongy pedal.

Make sure you bleed the slave by manually bottoming out the piston with the bleeder open. It likes to trap an air bubble that isn't easily removed just by working the clutch pedal.
 
So now I went for an alignment today told tech just to make sure he presses the clutch all the way so the gears don’t grind when I got it back it seemed to be much better wasn’t getting light after some time started to think maybe he bled it for me or something then all of sudden I broke down because I can’t shift into any gear with the engine running !
 
You're going to toast your synchronizers if you keep driving it like this.
This is a pretty good write-up:
https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/clutch-will-not-disengage.460266/#post-153268772
Pay extra close attention to:
"Step Two: Next have person pump clutch, hold down pedal, open bleed screw, and then most importantly, SQUEEZE SLAVE CYLINDER SHUT! THEN with pedal down and slave cylinder compressed, close bleeder. This pushes the air out of the cylinder itself which is past the bleed screw. Without this step, the air will just sit in the cylinder no matter how many times you do step one."
 
I don’t know it didn’t work for me I can’t press the clutch fork like that with the clutch in and bleeder open

Maybe if the car was on a lift or something but I tried to press it in
Dumb question but you're pushing towards the drivers side??
 
Replaced oem slave with one from the parts store was making good progress then I did that last step and it worked that time except I think may have broken this cheap slave it’s all i could get in a pinch after I pushed that i the helper said they lost the pedal feel and I wasn’t able to get it back
 
No the fluid wouldn’t come down to the slave so I had to use my vacuum, and I was wondering if In general you guys would think this is a hydraulic problem and not a clutch /tob/ presssure plate problem
 
So i have no idea what’s wrong but just decided to throw a ton of money at it had a stage 3 trans and never liked the clutch / tob that the installer selected

So today Black Fury got a long list of parts ordered up

Oem master cylinder
Oem slave
Oem tob
Oem fly wheel bolts
Oem pivot ball
South bend 2700 B clutch stage 4 kit

So now I will take that shit apart get the act flywheel resurfaced and put it back together should fix my problem.
 
Something I didn't see mentioned which can cause clutch engagement problems are the tranny bolts to the bellhousing. Make sure they're all there, tight & torqued to spec. Especially the "crankwalk" bolt which install's right next to the driver side half shaft from the engine side, opposite from all the other bolts.
 
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