1G Shifting issue

[Dj3000gt]

Hi, I’m David I from Palm Springs California. This is my first turbo car. It’s a 1990 Eclipse GST with the 4G63 in it. I also have a 90 for 3000 GT my love and passion for cars has gone on since I was a kid now I’m just learning how to work on myself.

I’d like to find the right place to meet some cool guys and a cool club. This seems to be everything I was looking for this is an awesome site from what I see.

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I have shift issues a lot of things I’ve read says the clutch pedal assembly is the problem but I have pulled it out and it’s already been welded up like they had said to do I just was wondering where to go from here since that’s been taken care of already if anyone has any ideas or knows how to solve the problem, please help

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[luv2rallye]

You need to describe exactly what your "clutch problem" is.

 

[Bo0sTeD 4G63]

What are the shift issues that you have? What is the car doing? Symptoms?

 

[Dj3000gt]

You need to describe exactly what your "clutch problem" is.

It acts like the clutch isn’t engaging all the way and shifting it a problem. I tried adjusting the clutch pedal but it is out of adjustment. So I removed the clutch pedal assembly. Planning on welding up like I’ve heard but it has already be done. It has a new clutch, flywheel and throw out

 

[SixBolt_16G]

I think I know what youre trying to describe. When i broke the clutch bracket in my wifes cars, it felt like there was a ton of free play up top and had a long way to travel before it felt like the clutch was even trying to disengage but the clutch pedal was already at the floor so i could press any more and not disengage enough to switch gears. Does your issue sound similar?

There are other things that can mimick this. Answering these questions might help narrow it down to something that someone can specifically point to as the problem?

1. DId you do the clutch install or was it a previous owner? When was the last time the car ran properly?(How much about the install do you know?)
2. Does the pedal spring back to position when you step off or is it slow to return? (Possible air in the line)
3. Does it shift normally when you the engine if off?
4. Check fluid level?
5. Notice any fluid on the firewall in the footwell when you were adjusting the clutch? (Clutch master cylinder)
6. Any wetness around the slave cylinder or when you pull back the boot? (Slave Cylinder)

 

[pauleyman]

Read this.

Clutch basic 101: A clutch basics thread for everybody

The following statements are my opinions but they are based on 26 years of wrenching on mitsubishis and 21 of those years on DSMs. This applies to 4g63 cars only. I am not commenting on a 420a clutch although some things do apply.This is not meant to be just DSM specific but could be applied...

www.dsmtuners.com

 

[Dj3000gt]

I think I know what youre trying to describe. When i broke the clutch bracket in my wifes cars, it felt like there was a ton of free play up top and had a long way to travel before it felt like the clutch was even trying to disengage but the clutch pedal was already at the floor so i could press any more and not disengage enough to switch gears. Does your issue sound similar?

There are other things that can mimick this. Answering these questions might help narrow it down to something that someone can specifically point to as the problem?

1. DId you do the clutch install or was it a previous owner? When was the last time the car ran properly?(How much about the install do you know?)
2. Does the pedal spring back to position when you step off or is it slow to return? (Possible air in the line)
3. Does it shift normally when you the engine if off?
4. Check fluid level?
5. Notice any fluid on the firewall in the footwell when you were adjusting the clutch? (Clutch master cylinder)
6. Any wetness around the slave cylinder or when you pull back the boot? (Slave Cylinder)

I did switch the clutch myself and I’ve driven it but the car is new to me and I’ve had nothing but issues shifting since I’ve had it. The pedal springs back normally, the fluid is up in the reservoir, I didn’t notice any fluid on the firewall, but when I pulled back the boot on the the slave cylinder there was a tiny bit of oil look like and yes, it was adjusted all the way out by the

What are the shift issues that you have? What is the car doing? Symptoms?

When in gear it feels like the clutch wants to engage right out the floor and I need to go further to shift it. The gears grind as I try to shift but when the car is off it goes into gear it has a new clutch new fly wheel in my pedal assembly has already been welded, that was done I guess previously I just took it out last night.

I was hoping that was my issue but now I’m just trying to figure out where to go from here.

 

[SixBolt_16G]

Im not the best person to give advice on drivetrain issues, but if your slave is wet and leaking then its throwing the hydraulic system out of whack and needs to be replaced. Not saying that that is the only issue going on but seems like a logical place to start.

Id probably have someone press on the clutch while i look to see how much travel the slave arm has. If its barely moving or moving and then retracting a little, like its losing pressure in the process then you have your answer or at least some kind of proof. Is behind the boot the only place you see fluid? its not spraying it anywhere around that area? Seems like losing that amount of pressure would result in fluid spraying outside of the boot somewhere. But definitely don't try forcing it into gear anymore.

 

[Dj3000gt]

Im not the best person to give advice on drivetrain issues, but if your slave is wet and leaking then its throwing the hydraulic system out of whack and needs to be replaced. Not saying that that is the only issue going on but seems like a logical place to start.

Id probably have someone press on the clutch while i look to see how much travel the slave arm has. If its barely moving or moving and then retracting a little, like its losing pressure in the process then you have your answer or at least some kind of proof. Is behind the boot the only place you see fluid? its not spraying it anywhere around that area? Seems like losing that amount of pressure would result in fluid spraying outside of the boot somewhere. But definitely don't try forcing it into gear anymore.

Thanks for your insight appreciate it

 

[pauleyman]

You said the master cyl is adjusted all the way out? Can you show us a picture?
Did you check the step on the flywheel before install? What clutch did you install? Where is the position of the clutch fork in the window of the transmission? Middle or more to one side or the other? Refer driver or passenger not left or right please. Are any parts new? Fork? Ball? etc.

 

[Mech Addict]

You need to be able to adjust the clutch. If the weld was done slightly off, you may never have enough adjustment to do it right. I swapped a 2g clutch rod in a new clutch MC for my car, and now I can adjust the clutch properly ( meaning just until the piston blocks the resrvoir, and then back it off a half-turn). Also these cars chew through synchros (often because of poor clutch adjustment) and that will cause the same shifting issues as a clutch not disengaging.
Have you tried the clutch drag test?
Level ground, clutch pushed all the way down, car in gear, rev up to 5000rpm. Don’t let the clutch out, just keep it pressed in. If the car starts to roll, you have drag, and it is a clutch issue. If no drag, then more likely a trans issue.

 

[Dj3000gt]

You need to be able to adjust the clutch. If the weld was done slightly off, you may never have enough adjustment to do it right. I swapped a 2g clutch rod in a new clutch MC for my car, and now I can adjust the clutch properly ( meaning just until the piston blocks the resrvoir, and then back it off a half-turn). Also these cars chew through synchros (often because of poor clutch adjustment) and that will cause the same shifting issues as a clutch not disengaging.
Have you tried the clutch drag test?
Level ground, clutch pushed all the way down, car in gear, rev up to 5000rpm. Don’t let the clutch out, just keep it pressed in. If the car starts to roll, you have drag, and it is a clutch issue. If no drag, then more likely a trans issue.

Waiting for a used clutch pedal still need to come in this way I could hopefully adjust. It got a new master cylinder, and I was thinking about buying a new slave cylinder as well, but just in a halt due to waiting for parts.