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awdturbo-g1

10+ Year Contributor
70
0
Apr 4, 2010
st.peters, Missouri
i gotmy head put back on my car and every since it has been runing like dirt, i checked the timeing and the cam gears line up right so i dont think it is out of time,but i dont really know for sure i got 120 psi on the Compression Testing so thats why i dont think its out of time but once agen i could be wrong if i am i need to know how to check it right,if it helps i got all new wires plugs coil pack and a ecu still running bad? any ideas i could use the help thanks.
 
Well when the cam gears lined up right was the crank was lined up right as well?

Do you have you firing order correct?
 
i checked the timeing and the cam gears line up right so i dont think it is out of time,but i dont really know for sure

Well it either is or isn't. :)

If all the marks line up, it's timed correctly.

Timing Belt VFAQ (Timing Belt TSB - ENHANCED)

i got 120 psi on the Compression Testing so thats why i dont think its out of time

120 psi is actually just below the service limit. You should be seeing something around 150-170, depending on the engine's condition.

Are you sure you did the test properly? Have you done a leak-down test?

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/338152-compression-leak-down-testing.html
 
Did you put your wires in order according to your coil pack?, if I remember correctly the two middle two are 1 and 2 the outer two are 4 and 3. it doesn't just go 1234, I might be wrong but take a look and see what the coil says
 
Sounds like firing order. From the passenger side to driver side is cylinder 4-3-2-1 from the front of the car to the firewall the firing order (on the coil pack) is 4-1-2-3, make sure they're hooked up in that order. I can almost guarantee that's the problem.

Also if your compression is all around 120 across the board than timing is fine. Even if it's off a tooth compression will vary quite a bit across all cylinders.
 
Sounds like firing order. From the passenger side to driver side is cylinder 4-3-2-1 from the front of the car to the firewall the firing order (on the coil pack) is 4-1-2-3, make sure they're hooked up in that order. I can almost guarantee that's the problem.

Also if your compression is all around 120 across the board than timing is fine. Even if it's off a tooth compression will vary quite a bit across all cylinders.

Technically, the coils are arranged 4, 1, 2, 3 but the true firing order is 1, 3, 4, 2 (as far as engine events and the ECU are concerned).

1 & 4 are interchangeable (as well as 2 & 3) since we have a waste spark system; but it's better to think of it as a dedicated single fire system IMO.
 
it wasnt the fireing order its still doing it, i will tell youi what it is doing it wont let me go past 2,000 rpm even if its to the floor the check engine light is comeing on the for some reson the stock boost gage is now rideing at 7 psi when at idel and when i hit the gas it shoots up to 14 but the after market one isnt doing it and when your driveing and you get to 2,000 rpm its starts to jerk the car.
 
What is the cel?

No offense, but I think you need to find someone around there to help you with this. You have a car that is throwing CELs and not revving past 2000rpm, but it sounds like you are still hammering on it ("even if it's to the floor").

You could be doing more damage if you continue driving it, unless you can positively identify some of the issues you are seeing. And it's REALLY hard for anyone to diagnose and help with these problems over the internet unless you have a basic understanding of how the car works.
 
then its the maf if it does it when you unplug it, It means its not sending the ecu any thing, and cel is check engine light, the reason the stock one moves is because it doesn't read actual boost it goes by what the rpms are that's why they are inaccurate
 
Well, if you're are still having this problem when I get home in a month I'll be more than happy to come help you out. :thumb: I live right on the other side of the river, well not in East STL, further out.
 
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