Not heating up Fast enough.(anyone???)

[binx]

okay heres the deal.

Every Morning I wake up and have to start my talon at 7:40 to be out the door by 8:00 if I just start it for 3-4 minutes the car will idle surge from 1200-2000 . Does anyone anyone anyone at all know why this is?

heres what happens if I jump in the car and go , I will roll backwards out of the driveay with the car in neutral clutch in.

let her roll back

rpm's are at a constant 2000.

Let clutch out .

now RPMS are going down to 1200 but when I give it gas were right back at 2000 until I let the clutch out , count to 4 , then it goes back to 1000-1200.

Does the car have to be Warm to idle correctly nomattter what or is there something that can remedy this?

thanks DSMT.

 

[southrneclipser]

Does it idle normally when the engine is warm? I bieleve the idle is controlled by the computer to make it idle high and warm up faster but im not real sure. It still shouldn't be going up and down though. If its taking a long time to warm up, your thermostat is probably stuck open. You should replace it and see if it helps.

 

[boostedjay32]

My car just stays at 1500 when im warming it up until it starts to warm up the rpms drop to 1000 slowly. Maybe you should just let it warm up, then drive it, turn if off, then turn it on and see if it still does the same warm. it if does you may have a problem. if it does not do it warmed up then i wouldnt worry too much about it.

 

[black_gst]

your Isc may be bad and you may have a boost leak you should check for both

 

[binx]

not a boost leak , if it was a boost leak it would not pull as hard. I am just fine once the car warms up , I wouldnt have a problem with it but its REALLLY ANNOYING I mean , its gonna get my 91 with 60k stolen because I have to leave it outside unlocked running for 20 mins before I can drive it at all. I think its gotta be a sensor or thermostat.

 

[steve]

not a boost leak , if it was a boost leak it would not pull as hard. I am just fine once the car warms up , I wouldnt have a problem with it but its REALLLY ANNOYING I mean , its gonna get my 91 with 60k stolen because I have to leave it outside unlocked running for 20 mins before I can drive it at all. I think its gotta be a sensor or thermostat.

Your surging, air leaking or otherwise bypassing the throttle plate at idle causes it.
That could be a leak, a bad ISC, and bad FIAV, a too tight throttle cable, incorrect adjustment of the BISS, or even signs that your capacitors are leaking in your ECU.

If you car doesn't come up to temp in a few mins you should also look at the thermostat.

 

[Calan]

The dreaded idle surge... one of the most common (and hard to isolate) DSM problems.

Search on "idle surge"...lots of threads about it. There used to be a good page called Terry's Idle Surge Troubleshooting, but it's not loading for me. The link is here though:

http://www.dsm.org/how-tos/tttt/tttt3.html


As for warming up, DSM's usually warm up pretty quickly from what I've seen. Do like Steve said and check or just replace your t-stat.

 

[binx]

its at 60k so this weekend , new timing belt and shaft belts etc along with a new thermostat , anything else I should replace while im in there its a 1991 with 60k on it.

 

[Dsmj89]

Water pump .
Sounds to me like your t-stat is stuck, i had the same problem with my first car, a 91 tsi awd, turned out the t-stat was broke in 2 pieces ! changed it and problem solved.

 

[binx]

schwing! thanks guys!!!!!!! this would make my talon 100x more appealing to drive than my mirage right now I am driving my busted mirage around because I cant stand leaving the talon running unattended for that long.

 

[steve]

its at 60k so this weekend , new timing belt and shaft belts etc along with a new thermostat , anything else I should replace while im in there its a 1991 with 60k on it.

You always change the tensioner with the timing belt. I do the pulleys (idler and tensioner) at the same time. The tensioner arm will need to be checked and greased so it doesn't wear out early and cause the belt to walk.

Water pump usually lasts till the 120k but since your cars hasn't been driven like it should it might be a safe idea since if it goes bad you have to redo the timing belt.

Plugs and wires.
O2 sensor.
PCV valve.
Complete fluid change, coolant, oil, trans, transfer, rear diff, brake and clutch.
Inspect the water and vacuum hoses.
Inspect the knock sensor. It's likely due because of age rather than miles.
Inspect the ECU caps, replace them if original.
Rotate the tires.

You'll like the car much better if you swap to the dual piston calipers and rotors used on the 93+ AWD cars. The factory single piston front brakes are really marginal.