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94exa2

10+ Year Contributor
184
1
Jan 1, 2010
Atlantic Beach, North Carolina
okay guys, im new to dsm's so please bear with me. im about to buy a 95 gsx and i think i know what all i want to do to it.

right now i can say i want an injen (or injen style) intake, 1g (or aftermarket) bov(recirculated of course, with hard dumptube), hard IC pipes, small FMIC, boost gauge/boost controller, ported 2g exhaust manifold, 2.5"(or 3"???) downpipe, 2.5" (or 3"??) exhaust with stock EVO8 muffler...am i missing anything? what "free mods" and "first mods" did i forget? i tried searching "free mods" and the link is broken. thanx guys.
 
Yeah i dug a little deeper and found that out. The 1g has a better flow but has a bad design. The 2g head is a better upgrade because of the higher floor of the ports which gives it a more "direct" shot past the valves which translates to a higher velocity of the air.

Someone correct me if im wrong.


And in quotes it states, "Giving bad advice, may do more harm than good"

OP: If you got more questions, why don't you just start another thread with a better title and please do search before asking more questions that has already been answered, and if you don't know to search I've provide you the link to help you effectively search. If the forum was kept cleaned and oragnized, guys like ME wouldn't even bother jumping in. ;)

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/site-problems-feedback/169391-how-use-search-function-find-info.html
 
And in quotes it states, "Giving bad advice, may do more harm than good"

OP: If you got more questions, why don't you just start another thread with a better title and please do search before asking more questions that has already been answered, and if you don't know to search I've provide you the link to help you effectively search. If the forum was kept cleaned and oragnized, guys like ME wouldn't even bother jumping in. ;)

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/site-problems-feedback/169391-how-use-search-function-find-info.html


You still have yet to contribute to this thread AT ALL. People post up questions that have been asked over and over, we know. Get over it. Your not a moderator, so don't act like one.

I've given plenty of useful information about the differences between the 2g head and 1g head. Except for the bit about the 2g flowing more. So far thats ALOT more than what you have contributed.
 
Thank you for the informative post, is there a significant reason why the 2g head is preferred?

what is the reason the 2g head is preferred?

i also read about 7 bolt pistons in a 6 bolt block. is that the best oem option?

im trying to figure out which oem block (6 bolt), which oem rods?, oem pistons, oem head/im/em(2g?) is for my build
 
I'm not too sure about the heads, but either one would work as long as it has a good port job. 6 bolt bottom ends are by far better if you want to make some serious HP. If you looking for a ballsy DD then just do minor upgrades to you stock 7 bolt. I would suggest 550cc injectors, 16g turbo, intake pipe, small FMIC, Boost controller, AFC or DSMlink V3 lite, and at the very least a 2.5" cat back exhaust with a high flow Cat. With these mods you'll have a good DD with some pep. This is just my 2 cents of info, and pretty much what I had in my 97 GST before I did a full 6 bolt swap, and I was able to put down 284 ft/lbs of torque and 263 HP to the wheels with it.
 
If this is your DD do all the maintenance first. and try to keep in mind bigger turbo more boost bigger injectors turns into alot of visits to the gas pump. as far as blocks go both blocks will give you more than enough power to make your jaw drop. the reason most people pick the 6bolt block is that the thrust bearing in the early 7 bolt blocks were a faulty design and wore out more often and caused crankwalk.
 
so would i be safe on stock fuel system and stock ecu pushing 17 psi from the stock t25? would i be safe pushing 17 psi from a 14b ?
 
Ok so I don't know if I read this thread right. I am currently taking a fuels and emissions class and I asked my teacher about the re-cerculation bov. I asked why would it be bad for the engine if I were to put it to atmospheric. He replied with "it is bad because the re-cerc port is after the MAF. So the MAF thinks ok there is still the air coming back in when its actually going out into the atmosphere, causing it run lean." So I see a bunch of things on here bout turbo upgrades and blah blah blah. What I'm trying to say is that I think personally you should start with a Wide band O2 sensor, MAFT, and a DSM Link. Those are my plans to do on my GSX. Reason why I suggest that is so you can adjust things accordingly as you go so you don't run to rich or too lean.

I'm just throwing that out there for you, anyone can correct me if I'm wrong I'm only explaining what my teacher told me in my class. And yes he did explain things more in depth about getting a bigger turbo and so on and so fourth.
 
would i be fine with stock fuel pump, injectors, and ecu if im only pushing 17psi from my t25? would it be safe to run 17psi with a 14b?
 
I am currently taking a fuels and emissions class and I asked my teacher about the re-cerculation bov. I asked why would it be bad for the engine if I were to put it to atmospheric. He replied with "it is bad because the re-cerc port is after the MAF. So the MAF thinks ok there is still the air coming back in when its actually going out into the atmosphere, causing it run RICH." .

Fixed :thumb:

would i be fine with stock fuel pump, injectors, and ecu if im only pushing 17psi from my t25? would it be safe to run 17psi with a 14b?

You need someting to log your car with. As long as your car isn't knocking it should be safe. If your still runing the stock sidemount I would be willing to bet anything over 12-13psi will cause knock and wouldn't turn the boost up.
 
so dont go past 12-13 psi with the stock smic? what about dejon smic?

would 17 psi be safe on a stock 2g 4g63t, t25, with just dejon intake, hard upper and lower ic pipes, crushed 1g bov recirculated, boost gauge, mbc and i guess dejon smic, stock exhaust, stock fuel pump (probably re-wire it), stock injectors, stock ecu?

or would i need bigger fuel pump, injectors and tune to hit 17psi?
 
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Fixed :thumb:



You need someting to log your car with. As long as your car isn't knocking it should be safe. If your still runing the stock sidemount I would be willing to bet anything over 12-13psi will cause knock and wouldn't turn the boost up.

Like launch said you need something to log data. By the way thanks for the edit. Before you do things like injectors and fuel pump etc. If you want a suggestion go with the 14B. Like another DSM buddy said earlier might as well go 16G. I'm running a 14B that the previous owner put in, I'm running 10 to 12 psi just fine no more than that. That is why I'm installing a wide band O2 a MAFT and a DSM link, do your electrical work first then upgrade. I learned that the hard way with my Jetta...it's a long story. I would recommend that you do this in my opinion before all the fuel pump injectors turbo etc. Again this is also coming from personal experiance, & my teacher.
 
Not having a freer breathing exhaust when it can be had for a cheap price, and you could use a 3 in cat and select a fairly quiet muffler if that is really a concern. It's very important to get that air moving out of the car faster. This is one of the first modifications you could/should do to a turbocharged car.

Do the exhaust....
 
Exhaust is HUGE. Going from a stock exhaust to a 3" DP with a 3" catback, and cat deleted. It was a massive difference for me.

Also, people prefer the 6bolt block because it has stronger rods than the 7 bolt. The 7bolt's pistons offer higher compression though.

evo3 exhaust manifold > 2g exhaust manifold > 1g exhaust manifold. All will bolt up to 16g or 14b.

I am running a 14b on 16 psi right now with walbro 255 pump and stock injectors. I can run through third gear before I start to hit fuel cut, so I would be cautious.
 
110 octane w/ a 14b I'd say like 16-17 psi is a safe max. If your logging and you have a wide band you could raise it until your specific cars says it's getting lean. I've run 18-19psi 2g injectors, fpr, and rewired stock pump.

I also have a car with 255lph wally pump, 880cc pte injectors, aeromotive afpr, all types of tuning nonsense...

I'd rather get in the more stock variety any day, any conditions and just enjoy the ride. The other car wasn't built by me.....but From what I've noticed the car is finicky from day to day...
 
whats the max boost i can run with stock injectors and stock ecu ???

Depends on when your car starts to see knock. If you can safely run 15psi with no knock do it, but if you start to see knock at anything above stock boost do not raise it as this will cause more harm to your motor and will not make more power.
 
ok, so stick to 15 psi on the stock t25 and stock fuel system?

thanks guys
 
what about with a walbro 190 fp, stock injectors, stock ecu, stock t25 with dejon intake, crushed 1g bov recirculated, dejon smic with good ducting, hard upper and lower ic pipes, boost controller, boost gauge, wbo2, stock exhaust ( i really dont want the exhaust any louder than stock)
 
guess ill stick to 15 psi till i can save up for the fp big28, injectors and dsmlink

could i run the fp big28 turbo at 15-16psi with walbro 190 fuel pump with stock injectors and stock ecu untill i can save up for injectors and dsmlink to up the boost more???
 
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will a walbro 190 fuel pump and 550 cc injectors be big enough for the fp big28 with a great dsmlink tune up to 300 hp, or would i need the 255 for the big28 up to 300 hp?
 
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