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1G no voltage at coolant temp sensor harness

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juntjoo

10+ Year Contributor
782
1
Sep 12, 2011
fort myers, Florida
what does that mean? that's not good right? where does one go from here? car no start

no no nevermind, I was checking the wrong thing...

no actually I just checked it again and I am not getting voltage to the wire harness for the coolant temp sensor. so...
 
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no no nevermind, I was checking the wrong thing...


no actually I just checked it and I am not getting voltage to the wire harness for the coolant temp sensor. so...

You are checking it w while plugged in right? If not the sensor will have no power if it isnt plugged in. it is simply a resistor type sensor. Computer sends voltage (5v) to it and reads the feedback to determine temperature.

what exactly is the problem? Your car won't start?
 
yeah, I checked it disconnected. how else would you be able to test the voltage at the harness?

well, the resistance is within spec... start then stall, now just no start, or start for a moment then die. code 23 (CAS), which I addressed in another thread, but others suggested checking the coolant temp sensor so I thought is check that and other things first but you think I should just swap out the CAS?

I tested the voltage on that harness and it was good, so as Haynes suggested after that replace the CAS -for code 23
 
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yeah, I checked it disconnected. how else would you be able to test the voltage at the harness? well, the resistance is within spec... start then stall, now just no start, or start for a moment then die. code 23(CAS), which I addressed in another thread, but others suggested checking the coolant temp sensor so I thought is check that and other things first but you think I should just swap out the CAS? I tested the voltage on that harness and it was good, so as Haynes suggested after that replace the CAS -for code 23

Very VERY rarely does a bad temp sensor cause a no start issue. If your checking it unplugged then all your going to get is the 5v reference signal going to the sensor and nothing on the other wire.

To check it while its plugged in you can either use a back probe, skin the wire, or stick a needle through the wire.

The, wire going to the temp sensor should.always have 5v give or, take a,few .Xv and the wire coming out should vary in voltage depending on temp.

That being said, yes from what your saying is going on, it sounds like your cam sensor or CAS is bad. Have you tried as adjusting it any? The plug isn't bad? No bent,burnt,or loose pins? Check this before replacing.
 
yeah, I'll double check it but it looks good. apparently there is no way to test the CAS itself? all I found in Haynes was to check the voltage at the wire harness. thanks.

wow, those are expensive. $3-500 for a new one and $80-100 used, and getting a used one would make me wonder how much longer will it have before it dies, I mean if mine died at 105k miles ya know?

Now I see why everyone suggests eliminating all other possibilities

I just found several other CAS's for under $200 brand new by Cardone, Richporter and some other one.
Anyone have any experience with these brands and just these parts in general?

I read the black top ones with "hall effect" are better for example...
 
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Very VERY rarely does a bad temp sensor cause a no start issue.

I wouldn't say it's too rare, both of my last two DSM's were hit with the coolant temp sensor no start. At $20 it's definitely something to cross of the list. I was about to go to CAS replacements all 3 times it happened. Just saying.
 
I wouldn't say it's too rare, both of my last two DSM's were hit with the coolant temp sensor no start. At $20 it's definitely something to cross of the list. I was about to go to CAS replacements all 3 times it happened. Just saying.

Well I guess it can happen just haven't seen it in the years I have be, working on cars.
 
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