2G No start problem

[Edmontes4g63]

So guys I need help being pointed in the right direction, yesterday I went to start my car and I would just crank. Ran fine the day before but now It’s just a crank no start. Car has fuel, has spark, not to sure about compression, it’s late and didn’t have time to do a test today, but I’m assuming it should be fine since it ran fine the day before. I’ve changed the spark plugs with NGK BPR6ES, both coolant temperature sensors, put on a different MAF. Other then compression test what other things should I look at tomorrow?? I’ve also looked through other threads that’s how I’ve know what to change out so far

 

[waltah]

Since it cranks you're past all the theft alarm and related stuff. I would not mess with sensors or compression -- neither is likely to cause a sudden switch from 'runs fine' to 'does not start.'

I assume it really does nothing -- turns over but not even a pop. Either the problem is no spark or no fuel reaching cylinders.

First step for 'doesn't start' is always when the ignition is switched on does the ECM light the CE light and then go off and boost gauge goes to zero. If it doesn't, find out why. If it does, check for codes -- anything unexpected should be followed up.

Assuming no useful code, continue. (An example of 'useless' would be catalytic converter ... no effect on engine running and permanent until you change the converter.)

With a waste spark system (two coils, each drives two cylinders every time) sudden loss of all spark (rather than just one cylinder pair so it still pops even if it won't run) is unlikely. So look at fuel first.

I assume that your "car has fuel" means 'in the tank' -- not that you've checked that it's getting to the rail.

There's a connector on the firewall right behind the throttle body -- fuel pump check connector. It's probably taped to the harness but nothing is in the connector. Black connector blue wire I think? <--- Somebody fix this if I have it wrong -- don't have time to check it right now. That wire comes off the fuel pump power wire. Look to see if there's power there when cranking. If no power when cranking you can confirm that this is the problem and that the pump is okay by jumping from that connector to the battery and then cranking -- car should try to start. Find out why fuel system isn't being turned on.

If there is power there when cranking then pull off the fuel pressure regulator from the driver end of the rail. ~1/4 cup of FUEL SHOULD SPILL -- be ready for that. If there is no fuel there, dead pump is most likely. If there is fuel then either the injectors aren't being triggered or there is no spark to any cylinder -- hook a spark plug wire to a spare sparkplug lying on the metal valve cover and watch for a spark every rev. If no or only rare spark probably sum ting wong with a rev sensor, ECU, etc.

Fire hazard with spilled fuel of course -- be prepared and wary.

 

[pauleyman]

So guys I need help being pointed in the right direction, yesterday I went to start my car and I would just crank. Ran fine the day before but now It’s just a crank no start. Car has fuel, has spark, not to sure about compression, it’s late and didn’t have time to do a test today, but I’m assuming it should be fine since it ran fine the day before. I’ve changed the spark plugs with NGK BPR6ES, both coolant temperature sensors, put on a different MAF. Other then compression test what other things should I look at tomorrow?? I’ve also looked through other threads that’s how I’ve know what to change out so far

I would also stop throwing parts at it. Throwing parts without a diagnosis is an expensive way to fix anything.
Did it crank cleanly or did it try to start and then didn't? Did it have ANY symptoms before this happened? I would at least physically touch all connectors you can physically reach and wiggle them. Do this ONE at a time and then try to start. You may find a broken/loose clip and the car will start after you wiggle it. You have then just temporarily solved your problem AND you know which connector did it. Certain tell tale items can also be does tach twitch while you're cranking? It should. Does it sound like it always does while cranking? If you managed to slip a timing belt when first cranking (honestly unlikely) but for the sake of argument if you did the motor will lose compression. In that case it turns over VERY easily and doesn't produce the same sound as a motor would when it's compressing air. Chug chug chug vs just a steady whirrrrrr.
I would say mostly likely culprit is electric/sensor related. Test them, don't just replace them.
Report back to use on the items we have posted. Easy checks.

 

[waltah]

I would also stop throwing parts at it. Throwing parts without a diagnosis is an expensive way to fix anything.

This especially. It's easy to dump several hundred dollars on a problem and fix nothing even though every one of those parts could have caused the symptom you have.

Even worse is every time you change a part you risk putting in a bad or wrong part or breaking something else. Which you may not notice until you fix whatever kept your car from running in the first place. And then the question is "which one of the parts I changed caused that and how/why?"

I have been there and done that too many times to count. Now I try to wait until diagnosis gives as much proof as possible that 'X' caused the symptom. Then I fix 'X' and wait.

That long-playing air conditioning job on my car ... I have had at least two leaks, fixed them both. The evaporator was clogged with mouse fur and dirt -- cleaned that. Now I think I need to remove and flush the condenser but I'm not going to touch it until I've driven it a month or so and it's still got a full charge and has no other problems. Then I'll do the condenser and see if that gets it to full performance.

 

[Edmontes4g63]

So basically yes the car wants to start at first and then just cranks like normal. Sounds how it normally would. Compression I’ve got 150psi on all 4 cylinders, the parts that I have changed came from another cat that I have ( MAF sensor, both coolant temp sensors,) I have 40-42 psi of fuel pressure and also checked to make sure fuel would come out of the return line. I have spark on all 4 cylinders. I’ll check each sensor like you said

 

[pauleyman]

Spray some starting fluid in it and see what it does. You may have fuel at the rail but not coming out of the injectors.

 

[Edmontes4g63]

Spray some starting fluid in it and see what it does. You may have fuel at the rail but not coming out of the injectors.

I’ll check with some fluid! But I think it should be getting fuel to the injectors bc the plugs are wet with fuel. Also noticed that my rpm’s are not moving at all when I crank it

 

[pauleyman]

sounds like you're not getting spark then. Check the connector at the ignition control module. I know on a 1g one of the symptoms of a bad ICM is the tach won't show. You crank it but it never moves and of course never starts. I had a module fail when hot. Car cools down and it fires up until the module gets hot again.

 

[pauleyman]

So guys I need help being pointed in the right direction, yesterday I went to start my car and I would just crank. Ran fine the day before but now It’s just a crank no start. Car has fuel, has spark, not to sure about compression, it’s late and didn’t have time to do a test today, but I’m assuming it should be fine since it ran fine the day before. I’ve changed the spark plugs with NGK BPR6ES, both coolant temperature sensors, put on a different MAF. Other then compression test what other things should I look at tomorrow?? I’ve also looked through other threads that’s how I’ve know what to change out so far

How did you determine this? Your last post suggests it doesn't.