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2G no start after head change?

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kenuwine4g63

15+ Year Contributor
601
50
May 26, 2009
Charlotte, North Carolina
Ok guy i searched and searched and cannot find/figure out the problem. I came to the conclusion that i have no spark..AT ALL..I just put another head on the car due to my last one bending valves. I have compression but no spark. I have a volt tester that messures all resistance and voltage..When i look at how to test the coil pack primary resistance do i suppose to test it at the plug or the connecter itself..the secondary is reading 13.13, and 13.5 so the coil pack is good?? But when i do the primary i get readings like .1 to .5...Where should i have my meters turned to. I know the horseshoe sign is for resistance, but it gives me values(20m, 2m, 200k, 20k, 2k, 200) which one do i turn the nob to..I also unpluged the transitor and tried starting the car and it makes the same exact sound as if i had it plug up..I switch transistors and still no spark..I need help havnt driven my car in 3 months and its my DD.
 
Grab a decent test light if you dont already have one. If your looking at the female side of the triangle shaped three prong coil pack connector, there should be a red wire, a blue wire, and a blue striped wire. The red should have 12v and the blue wires are the negative trigger pulses. After verifying correct voltage on the red wire, attach the test light clip to the positive post on the battery and touch one of the blue wires with the probe. Now have someone try and start the motor and you should see the tester begin to pulse. Try this with both blue wires and post back.
 
Grab a decent test light if you dont already have one. If your looking at the female side of the triangle shaped three prong coil pack connector, there should be a red wire, a blue wire, and a blue striped wire. The red should have 12v and the blue wires are the negative trigger pulses. After verifying correct voltage on the red wire, attach the test light clip to the positive post on the battery and touch one of the blue wires with the probe. Now have someone try and start the motor and you should see the tester begin to pulse. Try this with both blue wires and post back.

I dont have a test light, im trying to take a pic of the one i have...Its raining and stuff out this way so i cant go out and get one and test it. I also have a video on youtube..YouTube - DSM no compression...., It says no compression but thats not the problem. Its spark. Its soaking my spark plugs
 

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Disconnect your injectors so your not washing your rings. That fuel is contaminating your oil. The meter you have wont be able to react fast enough to show the negative coil pulses.
 
Disconnect your injectors so your not washing your rings. That fuel is contaminating your oil. The meter you have wont be able to react fast enough to show the negative coil pulses.

OK, Kool scratch that...I have spark on all 4,(mom aided).....And i have fuel. I disconnected the fuel feed from the fuel rail and its shooting out gas..Now im stumped, the machanical timing is dead on....the firing order is 4123
4321
Really dont know wuts going on!!!:banghead::banghead::banghead:
 
Coolant sensor good?

Sounds like it's badly flooded. Smell much gas?
Pull the plugs and let it dry out for a while, then try again.

yes I pulled the plugs, and dried them off. Put them back in and it still wont start. How would i go about checking my coolant tempt sensor..??
 
yes I pulled the plugs, and dried them off. Put them back in and it still wont start. How would i go about checking my coolant tempt sensor..??

Resistance is variable with temp. See if your reading falls within this table.

32* - 5900 ohms
68* - 3500 ohms
104*- 2700 ohms
176*- 300 ohms
 
Resistance is variable with temp. See if your reading falls within this table.

32* - 5900 ohms
68* - 3500 ohms
104*- 2700 ohms
176*- 300 ohms

And how would i check this through the female or male side??? And how would i check the temp that it is seeing too
 
Your testing the component side, not the harness side... The coolant will be at ambient temp since the car hasnt been running. If it is 70* in the shop, then your readings should fall between 3500 and 2700 ohms. Being much closer to the 3500 ohm range of course.
 
Your testing the component side, not the harness side... The coolant will be at ambient temp since the car hasnt been running. If it is 70* in the shop, then your readings should fall between 3500 and 2700 ohms. Being much closer to the 3500 ohm range of course.

well thanks i ordered a new one anyway to carryout with it...But my car is outside and it may be around 60* or lower but im going out to check it now..i'll report back
 
Ok its cooler there so more than 3500 ohms and less than 5900.

ok, this is really urking me. Theres no way i can get those two huge prongs into the butt of that sensor. Im measuring off the sensor thats pluged into the thermostat housing right, and not the plug that plugs into the sensor..correct??
 
Strip a small piece of wire use that to reach the plugs. I will be home in a bit and I can get a better pic of what your looking at.
 
ok to eliminate that problem i went and bought a new sensor.....still dosnt start...my battery dided too, i just got it recharged, im goin to dry off the spark plugs and try again afta that, im goint to pull the ecu

I pulled the ecu.....IT is flawless. It honestly isnt burnt on either side and has no leaking caps...im stumped
 
Your positive that your timing isn't 180 out?

yea i have a 95-96 cas, so its fixed....The only thing i can think of now is some of my spark plugs were dry, so now im confused and think my injectors are not pulsing. I may have to change the resistor box on the firewall. I know i have compression, but probably monday i will do another compression test. But the car will still crank with bad compression but just run like crap..I have a 12v signal to all my injectors, and on my resistor the female plug i got a reading of...81.5, 65.6, 65.5, 65.7......but thats the female side, the male side i couldnt test too far down. Im just stumped.....The head i had on it first i jumped time, took the head off replaced all the valves and the same thing happens..Bought a new head had it at a machine shop and had everything done, and now the same thing..i dnt know wut to do:confused::confused::confused:
 
Do you have a datalogger?
Are you tuning stock injectors with the SAFC in your profile?

Really what I want to know is are you throwing DTCs for more than just the missing cat?

I need to change all that..All i have now is a 16g and my fuel pump is rewired..thats it. I sold some of that stuff in my profile(thanks for the reminder) I dont have a datalogger or link.
 
I'm running out of ideas for you to try. :hmm: What about pulling the vacuum line on the FPR and see if fuel runs out of it. If your fuel pressure is rising past stock levels then your fuel trims will be far too rich.
 
One reason you could have no spark at all is you didn't plug in the crank angle sensor to the correct part of the harness. The AC compressor has the same connector down there. Go back and check to make sure you plugged the right one in, as well as the correct one to the cam angle sensor (since your a 95-96). This got me the first time I put a DSM together.
 
I'm running out of ideas for you to try. :hmm: What about pulling the vacuum line on the FPR and see if fuel runs out of it. If your fuel pressure is rising past stock levels then your fuel trims will be far too rich.

Ok i will try this, im runing out of ideas too man. do you think my stock fpr is bad, causing my car over flood. It tried to crank today and then it died back to just cranking. I may also change out my injector resistor box im thinking this may cause a problem. Also how do you check the grounds of the ecu?? Im going to check everything i can think of.


One reason you could have no spark at all is you didn't plug in the crank angle sensor to the correct part of the harness. The AC compressor has the same connector down there. Go back and check to make sure you plugged the right one in, as well as the correct one to the cam angle sensor (since your a 95-96). This got me the first time I put a DSM together.

Its hooked up right, i made this mistake a long time ago, but i def have that correct....
 
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